P1S is the 3D printer with the enclosed build chamber, but we still have the maximum temperature 100 deg C. This is not enough for ABS and ASA plastics, they require 110 deg. C for the best adhesion. I know you will suggest to use glue, cryogrip plate or deregulator. But I think these are the crutches and will be better if Bambu Lab themselfs allow us to use full perfomance of the bed, there are also so much conqurents’ printers like Creality or Prusa which offer 120 deg C. And most of people already know this printer can maintain even up to 135 deg. C (thanks to deregulator).
Bambu Lab, please, stop useing this pointless marketing ploy and let us heat beds on our printers to 120 deg. C (for P1S and X1C). Please! If you afraid about warranty - make something like disclaimer that user doing it on his own risk and not allowed anymore to use official services. I don’t have them in my country anyway and I will need fix the printer with my hands and my money.
I’ve been printing ASA and ABS with zero issues since I got my P1S earlier this year. I printed an entire RC Landrover out of ABS and I didn’t have any warping or other issues.
I have ABS+ by eSun, I have found great temperature balance between nozzle and bed 245/100, but I have red articles and watched some videos - I have found out this is not enough in terms of mechanicals characteristics, I mean with such nozzle temperature the part will be with low toughness + I get ripples on the surface and I have decided to get rid of them. If I change nozzle temperature or increase the speeds (ripples disappear in my case on higher speeds) the part start unsticking. With ASA+ I still have no success prints. The problem is when I try to find optimal parameters between quality and perfomance - I can’t do it, because I have high risk the model will unstick. Why I don’t want to use glue? Because the glue was actual when on first printers like Anycubic I3 Mega we had only open printer (w/o enclosure), with smooth plate and low bed temperatures around 90-95 deg C. Now we have high speed enclosed machines with PEI plates and I can’t ideally print (like BL wrote on their official site) with ABS and ASA. If you have used Generic ABS profile and clicked “Print” - you’re very happy man, but here is some persons (like me) who wish to improve the print quality.
Hmm, I bought an role of Bambu ABS filament, and printed some stuff with it with the P1S. And used the default profile. it printed great… No warping whatsoever… so it works fine. no need for higher temp…
Well, boys, in all modesty. This train has taken a strange turn. The OP had a perfectly fair comment/intent. As far as I know, for ASA printing, a higher temperature would actually be better than just 100C, and instead of arguments why we don’t (can’t?) actually have a higher board temperature than 100C on the P1S (especially considering that it’s … NOT (typo was here) … a technical limitation, but only a “business” one), one learns that someone else can print ASA at 100C just fine.
OK, maybe you are more proficient than the author (and me), maybe you have better material, maybe you are lucky or just have lower requirements? There are plenty of possibilities, but that’s not the point … just because you don’t need something… doesn’t mean it can’t be useful for someone else. And in truth, the possibility of a higher plate temperature would be useful for everyone, whether you print ASA without problems or not.
By the way, I heard somewhere that perhaps the P1S for the USA has a maximum board temperature of 110C ? I don’t know if this is true (I’m in Europe), but if it is, then the limit is even more absurd than the OP mentioned.
You might be confusing this with the X1, the P1 series heat bed is rated at 100C. The X1C had a firmware bug (fixed in 01.09.01.00 20250611) that wouldn’t let you got to 120C on 110V.
The 110C I heard about P1S … but I don’t know how valid that source was.
Yes, you’re right. I’m not a native speaker, so sometimes I get something wrong or forget something I’ll correct it in the original text so that it makes sense… thanks for pointing it out.
Excessively high temperatures may cause electronic components such as the MCU inside the machine to report errors or even be damaged, and this cannot be improved on the original basis.
Also hoping for this change. I’ve successfully printed some small items with Polylite ABS, but I hesitate to print larger/more complex items because I don’t want to have wasted the material - and my time - if the print ends up failing.
If they rated the bed for 100C limit, that should probably be followed. Maybe their glue lets go at 110 or something. Messing with safety margins on something that heats up directly with AC power from your wall seems like a dangerous idea…
Excessively high temperatures may cause electronic components such as the MCU inside the machine to report errors or even be damaged, and this cannot be improved on the original basis.
If they rated the bed for 100C limit, that should probably be followed. Maybe their glue lets go at 110 or something. Messing with safety margins on something that heats up directly with AC power from your wall seems like a dangerous idea…
There is a team writing Klipper for bambu printers. They’re very impressive at printer design and can build these machines from the zero. They’re planning to up the limit of the bed tempeture to 110 deg. C (according to my observations AC power supply and the bed heater are the same as X1C has). If Bambu Team do nothing - I consider to replace “brains” of printer and use it at full power. Don’t fall to scares of marketing managers and learn some tech things.
You misunderstand, I’m very confident that makers can force $electrical_component go to $value. That’s easy.
Surpassing safety limits is extremely dumb (IMO) when you can go to a store and buy $thing designed to do $requirement. Especially the bed heater, which is line voltage, it’s not behind buck converters etc that will fail before it will - when that fails - you’re going into one of two failure modes - short+break, or melt+fire.
Indeed. Plus, it is usually quite easy to push something well-designed to +10% or even +20% of it’s rating… but it is usually at the expense of its life expectancy and some units will fail sooner than others. I’d love to see the evidence/proof (not just some bold/wild statement) whether the machine will still reliably function at 110C (or 120C) for the several thousand hours of live I expect to get out of it, and that it would otherwise achieve (acts of force majeure and user incompetence permitting).
There is two safety definitions: theoretical, by producer and factual, by experiments. There are so many people say it’s marketing ploy and so many carried out experiments with deregulator especially. About dumb. I’m repeating it in this post several times already.
Ok, you’re writing to me in numbers. How much it can reduce lifetime resource of the heatbed if I increase the temperature by 10 deg? I need the accurate value.
I’ll correct it in the original text so that it makes sense… thanks for pointing it out.