Induction Nozzles oozing at seams

There seems to be something wrong with my induction nozzles. I’ve only been using the H2C for 91 hours but I’m noticing that there is a build up of filament at the joint near the bottom of each nozzles. The worst one is the nozzle at position A1 which is being used the most with each print. The 2nd worst is A2 etc. See video for the problem: H2C Induction Nozzles - YouTube

I attempted to remove the build up of filament on the nozzle and I ended up ripping a portion of the black wrapping around the nozzle and now there is metal exposed. Is that a problem?

I ALSO noticed that when printing embossed text, the characters/letters are no longer clear but rather stringy. My A1 has been running for more than 1000 hrs and it is able to print clearly readable text. But my new H2C which has only been running for 91 hrs now struggles with the same sized text.

The black filament used in all the test was the same one in the A1 and H2C.

Are the induction nozzles defective? Has anyone else experienced these issues on their H2C?

Looks damaged. Got any better pictures?

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what did you want me to take more pictures of? Did you see the youtube video?

It is probably just the insulator. Underneath that there’s a ferromagnetic sleeve that heats up. Personally I probably wouldn’t worry about the insulator (not saying that it’s fine). Regardless, why worry whether it’s ok or not if your nozzle doesn’t perform? I’d just contact Bambu support

CNC kitchen took that nozzle apart and I don’t remember there being a way for the filament to seep so far back.


At around 12:52 he’s grinding through it.
This is an interesting issue tbh

Ahhh, I didn’t see the YouTube link. My bad. Yea that’s definitely not right. I’ll check mine after this print is done.

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I checked mine and I don’t have similar clumping on my nozzles.

The video @Soultaker linked does make me believe the parts are not press fit, so no real chance of leaking at a seam. If I were to hazard a guess, this is filament blobs picked up from printing; probably during purging or nozzle cleaning. The induction sleeve cover is more than likely stickier than the metal body and so you’re seeing it attach up high. In your video the blobs are both located where that part of the sleeve is visible between the induction heater.

May be why they want you cleaning the nozzle regularly with this new funky nozzle cleaning sponge.

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What? Funky nozzle cleaning sponge? I haven’t heard of this … where did you get this image from? where do I get this cleaning sponge from? There wasn’t one in my accessory kit.

Sorry, I should have linked the Wiki where I got the picture. It’s one of the pictures for the toolhead cleaning procedure in the regular maintenance page.

The sponges are in the accessories box. There’s a little bag of sponges.

There’s also a print for the handle on the printer. I printed my handle from their cleaning sponge guide.

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it’s not stringing. it’s just not adhering. I don’t think the nozzle has anything to do with it.

post your 3mf file for better analysis

Here is the 3mf file I used
swatchSilk.3mf (5.2 MB)

Interesting thread i guess the good news is we can easy take them of the rack and inspect them now.

You’re using a weird layer height of 0.22mm, which reduces the adhesion due to less squish.

Your printing temp of PLA silk is 220C, optimal temp for PLA Silk usually is 230C. Again, less adhesion than optimal.

My H2C has been printing for over a hundred hrs:

Genericly generic profiles of BBS is trash, use BBL profiles instead.

Unfortunately you might have broken one of your nozzles, but the rest of them should be fine.

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I had a similar issue with the left nozzle… I used a brass brush from Harbor Freight to brush off all the filament globs.* There was also this black dye stuff when I pulled the nozzle out of the print head… I wonder if it’s grease or silicone slowly melting apart? I’m run alot of PETG filament.

I also did the flow dynamics and flow rate calibrations, which seemed to reduce stringing.

Not about the H2C, but worth mentioning: I tested the plastic repellent bottle that came with my MAKO for my X1 Carbon. It works flawlessly, though it needs to be reapplied from time to time. Might be worth trying if you have access to something similar?

Not about the H2C, but worth mentioning: I tested the plastic repellent bottle that came with my MAKO for my X1 Carbon. It works flawlessly, though it needs to be reapplied from time to time. Might be worth trying if you have access to something similar?

This is the one I received: Plastic Repellent Paint™ | PTFE Nanosuspension | Slice Engineering

In my testing it effectively prevents everything from PLA to ASA from adhering to the nozzle or the silicone sock.

I hadn’t seen that one … Interesting.

I have been using that stuff for a while for printing PETG. It’s pretty great IMO. Not necessary, but like any tool when properly used it helps.

I pre-coat all my nozzles with release agent when they are new, and then re-apply it from time to time. It is probably not the most optimal method, but it seems to work well in practice.

Polyfluoropolymer decomposition products are highly toxic. There is no safe exposure threshold that would allow one to casually say, “So what - what harm could it do if this small amount of anti-stick coating on the nozzle tip decomposes and I inhale trace amounts of it?”
PTFE is unquestionably a great American invention. But when it comes to the nozzle tip, it’s best to keep your hands off it.

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What is this sponge all about? A special type of sponge? Does it have a special cleaning solution? My H2C just failed me twice because of this clumping, and it is under 65 printing hours. I am new to the Bambu family. Am I married to buying this sponge only from BambuLabs, or can I use any generic sponge?

Looks like a regular sponge (comes with H2C). Need to print the holder and then get it wet to clean your nozzles