Infill to perimeter and layer start behavior problems

Hi,
I have recently gotten a p1p and expected a fairly handsoff print experience. With the p1p I decided to change to a 0,6mm nozzle from the getgo. I did only print some benchy with the 0,4mm nozzle that was on the sd-card. Very good print quality no issues.

But now when i try to print with the 0,6mm nozzle the perimeter to infill behavior seems bad, as well as start of each layer. I have wiped all changes I have fiddled with, reinstalled bambulab studio and I am only printing with the supplied 1kg whitte pla that came with the system. Everything is factory preset for the 0,6mm nozzle and this is the result. I could start tuning this but I dont really have time for it. Id rather just buy a solution where I can spend the time on more productive things. Is there anything obvious I am missing about this system? Are the presets for these printers unrefined?

Some added info.

Did factory reset, another new calibration, sliced in softfever/orcaslicer fork of bambu studio and it was plenty better directly but I have no clue why. After this picture (which was everything default) I added 50% perimeter to infill overlap instead of the default 15%. Looks much better but as said I have no clue why the behavior changed yet.

just an idea: the printer fresh out of the factory is “unworn” (e.g. wasn’t used for printing). It’s like a car: after some mileage is on a brand new car, you would show up again at the dealer and have the engine oil replaced + maybe some other maintenance things to clean off/rinse any leftover residue from the manufacturing. Usually with a brand new car you won’t kick up the engine to it’s RPM limit but start it slow. Just like the example with the car above: my guess is that the printer needs some time to “wear out” the belts and the nozzle. After some hours of printing a recalibration might be neccessary and do the magic. This is something I always did when I built my own printers back then; print for some hours and if needed perform a new calibration (e.g. calibrate E-Steps, …) if needed. This would perfectly explain / make sense to me on why the quality drastically improved after you’ve run a recalibration of the printer.