Going to buy one soon - how big of a table/desk/cart would I need?
I feel that the H2D is much quieter than the P1S. Especially if the P1S is printing PLA with the door or top open.
The only noise issue I have with the H2D is a fan cycling between 0-100% when printing PTEG.
1 Like
20 inches deep (printer only). Hose attachment (3") /w hose bend (4") for a total of ~27".
Source: https://youtu.be/5fLKwtGp4jA?si=myy9052lCfBmnkTo&t=550
The glass is very clear and untinted - I’ve booped it once already trying to grab my plate through it 
2 Likes
In regard to bed heating, I put a meter on it and found a normal heat-up to 55C (for PLA) from dead cold, takes approximately 1380 peak watts on a 120v circuit. Doing the +5C trick I’ve been using, shows an approximately 1020 peak watt spike. AMS drying (PLA) sees approximately a 175-watt peak. And general printing (after heat-up) has been under 300 watts and generally around 180.
So, in general, only the AC bed is a real draw on your system’s power.
3 Likes
Very well done review. You put a lot of time and effort into this, and it will help a lot of people, myself included. Thank you.
Myself I’m leaning towards the 10w laser variant. I like the improvements they made on the printer side of things, but really not sure I’m all in on the laser stuff. I figure if I get the 10w for a few hundred dollars more I get the a machine that is set up for laser and I get to dip my toe in that arena. If I like it I can always upgrade, if not then I figure it was worth the money to give it a shot without going full bore into laser.
3 Likes
I’ll add that I can’t smell the H2D printing PLA or PTEG. I can smell the P1S when doing the same materials. So the filter system may actually be effective.
I’ll be doing ABS and ASA in about a week. It would be great if those materials could be printed without outside venting.
I don’t see any owner yet attempting direct attachment for an outside vent. I’m not sure how that will work with louver system. Obviously Bambu opens the rear louvers for laser cutting, but it could always be closed when the chamber is heated.
I have seen the top vent open when printing PETG-HF in a cool room. But no smell I could sense.
1 Like
The air flow for PLA/PETG is largely spit right out. The filter is partially bypassed (vent opens around the filter and the top opens) but like you, I don’t really smell it. But at the same time, I didn’t notice PLA and PETG on my P1 (being I always printed them closed up fully). ABS/ASA works really well. I can smell it, but it’s really light. The air is held in the printer and recirculated for the entire print, and when you open it up, its largely the same magnitude that the machine let go that whole time, being very low. The filtration system works really well for higher temp materials.
4 Likes
According to the Bambu airflow diagram the top vent is intake and the louvered exhaust in the back is filtered is the bed is low. I don’t quite get it.
That’s not wrong. The top louvre is a passive intake. Passive as in, it opens while the chamber fan exhausts. It’s the only place for air pressure to equalize, so yes, it is largely an intake. But I’d imagine scent and particles can escape, even if it’s not significant. But the more important thing to the air management is in that filtered area. I haven’t taken mine apart, but this YouTuber did, and he shows the hidden filter bypass during PLA printing.
The description starts around 7:45
Interesting things of note:
The new filament tangle detection works very well. I’ve been using some old Elegoo Matte PLA and ripping off the cardboard and replacing it with the refillable spools and have been getting odd tangles here and there. It’s stopped the printer 4 times and each time it has recognized it and paused to allow me to fix.
The Smooth PEI bed plate is a mixed bag. The first couple of times I used it… it sucked. Absolutely terrible adhesion. But I kept using it, and when printing in the exact same place 2-3 times the adhesion improved substantially. Odd. I don’t remember this from the P1’s Smooth PEI sheet, but it was notable on the H2D. Obviously, this isn’t ideal, because it seems to take a few prints to prep the surface all over. I’ll keep checking… maybe it’s just heat cycles (I hope), dunno if I want to print a bed test 2-3 times to clear up the entire surface.
Great review. I missed it. It makes sense to have a bypass because a single laser session would trash the internal filter.
I do think that people with long exhaust runs to outside will need a supplementary fan. Controlling that fan with Home Assistant/MQTT would work.
I keep a tube of Bambu’s expensive liquid glue for smooth PEI frustrations with PLA. Although the usual cheap glue is usually fine.
1 Like
Good point you are raising: Ive been using Home Assistant with my Bambulabs before (there is a plugin for HA). Does this still work as before, also with the H2D and the new firmware for the older models?
The HA integration is working on both the H2D and an P1S, But I’m using it through the cloud, so I’m not sure of the limitations of local.
It should be possible to automatically vent the H2D to outdoors after an ABS print finishes
How do you configure the bed to heat up by +5C at a time rather than +10C. Please explain the trick as im trying to run the H2D, X1C and A1 all on a 15amp circuit.
I did the math for all three at peak and if I stagger the bed heating I should be able to run all three without tripping the circuit.
Its not coded, its a manual affair. Just manually bump it by 5C after it reaches temp. For example, if you start at 30C, bump it to 35C, then 40C, etc…
1 Like
There was an old P1/A1 firmware change that set the bed temp to first_layer right away after download. Did that get carried over to the H2D?
If not, then you can modify the machine start gcode to automate it
I’m not sure if it’s similar to the P1/X1 firmware change, but because its only creating a small voltage drop (around 2 volts) on the circuit and I don’t have a device that needs a hard clean voltage regulation on the same circuit, I’m just dealing with it until they release the US specific H2D change there’s been talk of.
I could definitely play with the start G-code, maybe add an If/Else Dwell command but I’d rather not play with the start code and just stay in sync with the factory firmware. Especially if there is a high likelihood of it coming soon.
;===== start to heat heatbed & hotend==========
M1002 set_filament_type:{filament_type[initial_no_support_extruder]} M104 S140 A M140 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single]
does the H2D have the 2mm VFA issue like the X1C? or they fixed it
Never noticed it on my P1, but there is no significant sign of it on the H2D. But note, there is a experimental setting (something about wall smoothing) which could affect that. So you may want to check and see if it changes things for you on the X1 (if its available in Bambu Studio 2.XX). BTW, I did see that this setting was not on by default in Bambu Studio for the X1, but was for the H2D.
1 Like