Im slightly upset that this does not print faster then the X1C on multiple color prints. I thought having double the extruders would help with color changes but turns out the heavier tool head slows down print time.
Three color print on my X1C take about 9 Hours, and the exact print on the H2D is coming up at 14 hours.
I would be surprised to see this. What does it look like? For reference, most prints will be a little slower due to the slower toolhead acceleration. However, I wouldn’t expect 55% slower. From the models I sliced, we were looking at 5-10% slower (honestly, most were under 5%).
Also… a 3 color print should be substantially faster on the H2D. Did you make sure to use the proper AMS/nozzle grouping?
Qidi has a setting that keeps outer walls in a sweet spot speed for cancelling the last bit of VFA that the belt design couldnt kill. Seems to be between 100mm/s and 150mm/s for PLA. Its in the qidi fork. Maybe the same sort of thing.
Edit, sorry, wrong setting. The correct setting is “resonance avoidance”
I did use the suggested AMS to nozzle grouping and that is why I am surprised about how long it would take.
Do you think it matters what print quality Im using though. Im printing using a 0.08mm Extra Fine Print Quality on both printers.
Odd… but honestly, Bambu Studio is doing things that don’t always seem clear, so be sure to check that its not doing something odd. In the initial version, the adjustability on the nozzles created a lot of weird numbers. I wouldn’t say Studio was wrong, but it made it really easy to miss an obvious error like mismatch nozzle assignment (which after syncing it probably shouldn’t allow you to do). The nozzle selection options have been narrowed down since the first version, but I imagine there are still some places things can go sideways if you are not looking.
Long story short… check for inconsistencies and make sure its doing what you thought it was doing.
The print profiles are WILDLY different. Extra Fine on the X1/P1 has significantly less walls, floors, and top surfaces than Extra Fine on the H2D. That will definitely create big differences in print time. I believe the H2D is doing 3-4 more floors and 3-4 more walls, along with other high quality settings turned up. You can now use the compare feature in Bambu Studio (it doesn’t crash anymore), and see all the differences.
I just got mine yesterday so still experimenting but so far it’s really impressive.
One thing I was really surprised by is how well the vision encoder worked. I had run minor prints when I first powered up (obligatory benchy and 2 color panda), and they came out great. But I thought hey I paid for the vision encoder so let’s try it! So I did and printed a single gridfinity cup and WOW…it’s probably the cleanest print I’ve ever gotten on any printer. If the seam wasn’t there you wouldn’t know it wasn’t injected molded.
I was wondering if the vision encoder was a waste of money from some of what I read on the forums before getting the printer…but now that I got to use it, it’s most definitely worth it!
I haven’t been sold on the Vision plate. I bought it on the second go-round and saw slightly worse accuracy (but within a reasonable tolerance, so I could call it a push). So it was a waste of money for me. I guess mine was fine as it was.
Admittedly it may just have been a fluke and it could change as I print more on it…but that first print came out so nice!
We’ll see how it goes as I do some more. I have a feeling I will be printing A LOT this weekend on the shiny new toy!
Not positive if it helps quality. Definitely helps with tolerances by making movements accurate. Creating accurately sized parts. One of my printers was off by a max of 400ish um and the other was off by almost 500.
Auto E-step calibration for X/Y is how I see it.
Hi All,
I am new to 3d printing and i just bought the H2D. 2 prints worked third print i have a problem : The heatbed temerature is abnormal the heater is overheating (0300-100-0001-0003 180502
I was shocked to find out i couldnt turn off the printer on the app and came back to it very vey hot, I let the printer cool down and re tried it with the same results, as a newbie can anyone help i just hope its a simple fix, i did read on the wikie it maybe a board but does that mean sending it back to bambu under warranty? how does this work? Thanks
Sounds like the bed’s thermistor/heat regulator is failing. Don’t keep trying to print. This is the last line or one of the last lines of defense to stop it from starting fires. They will probably send you a new part to install, or ask you to send it back.
Look through this and see if it is something you feel comfortable doing, * Replace H2D Heatbed Unit. It may not be all of this, but this is the general area of the repair.
Also note, it could be as simple as a unseated cable, just be mindful when troubleshooting this.
Did you print a gridfinity cup before during the calibration?
HI Mike
Thanks for the info , i don’t want to start taking it a part so i hope i can just send it back for a new one pretty dissapointing start to 3d printing
I’ve had mine since Tuesday and printing something most of the time I’ve been awake since. This is my first printer and I’m having a great time! Had one adhesion failure and it stopped because it saw the spaghetti (there really wasn’t much) but it was the fourth print and I hadn’t cleaned the print plate since the first print. Since that failure I’ve been washing it after every print and haven’t had any more problems.
I’ve had mine since Tuesday and have printed two to four things a day so far and have not had any problems and I think everything looks great but I do wipe the plate with a little alcohol after every two prints. This is my first printer after wanting one for at least five years and I canceled the Prusa core one I ordered two months ago after reading about all of the problems people were having with theirs. So far I love this thing.
Welcome to the club.
I would say you don’t have to wash the plate a lot, provided you don’t touch the print area with your hands. Clean hands with no finger/face oils are actually no problem, but any face/finger oil on the print area is almost a guaranteed failure. I once tested it by touching my face and then the purge line area and sure enough the purge line didn’t stick. Basically, kryptonite to the filament. Sometimes you can’t even see the oils. So, try not to touch the main print area and you should be fine. But if you start seeing adhesion issues… clean it up and that should sort it out (provided we are not talking about tough filaments like ABS, ASA, PC, Nylon, and etc.). I also clean up when I have a print that MUST stick (like long prints). I hate the idea of doing a 5-hour+ print and seeing it lift up.
Not an issue aside from audio wise, but does anyone else’s anti vibration feet make almost a click sound? Perhaps they are super sticky but some parts of the feet lift a bit causing the sound maybe?
No…which I wish I had done to have a better test case. But of all the other gridfinity cups I’ve printed on my other printers (X1C, A1, AD5M) the quality on this one was by far the best. It may be a fluke but I’m staying hopeful!
