Inland PLA Settings

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Hello, I have some PTEG inland filament, and I run first layer at 245C and the rest at 240. It says recommended temp is “220-240” I get a lot of stringing and “bumps.” I don’t know what your PTEG settings are but mine are just the Generic PTEG settings switched to 220-240.
video_2024-06-09_08-40-42 (1)

I use bambu labs petg filament and profile, dont appear to get many , if any issues printing with it, with no temperature changes

Before adjusting settings, I’d suggest drying your PETG. It may not be as hygroscopic as Nylon, but it can definitely pickup moisture in the air and start causing these issues you are seeing. Even if the filament was freshly opened it can still have moisture from the factory.

As for the recommended temperature, those are really just a suggestion, typically targeting much slower printers. I usually keep the higher temperatures that Bambu has in their profiles since it prints quite a bit faster and it flows better with the higher temps. If you are still seeing issues after drying the filament, you can try printing a temperature tower to find what works best for this particular filament.

just a query are you using a random seam for your print ? i understand that could explain any surface ? bumps

This one caused overflow with my nozzle, like it just oozes out

Its on aligned and pla looks fine with it

Ok. I have dried them at 55~ for 8 hours already so i dont think thats the issue.

The common causes include: Over-high Nozzle Temperature: If the hot end temperature is too high, the filament will be more fluid and more likely to drip out of the nozzle. concensus of opinion i found on google

Also wanted to add that the pole (in the video/gif) half of the filament just randomly turned to spaghetti so it just started wobbling and was ruined

i knnow i only use an A1 but i did a ten hour print with bl`s petg basic transparent using the petg profile over night without any issues

yes thats why i moved to a generic at 220-240. not oozing but still causes that issue in the gif

Then you’ll want to follow my other suggestion and print out a temperature tower. If you are using OrcaSlicer you can use their temperature calibration. Otherwise you can download one from MakerWorld. The benefit of the temperature tower is that you can see quality, stringing, and overhang results at different temperatures. You can then use these results to adjust your filament profile to a temp that works best for you.

what if im using bambu studio?

Then you’ll need to download a temperature tower from MakerWorld. They have instructions on how to make sure the temperatures are set at the appropriate layer height.

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Ok. Ill give this a try for both my white and black inland. Ill see which temp.

One other thing, try to make sure the nozzle is clean before printing with PETG. That stuff is rather sticky and can cause all kind of fun problems as you print. This is just a preventative step and not a solution to your problem.

Add another plate and print it seperatley ( the pole ) if its a seperate object (its difficult to see in the gif ) also use a brim to help secure it to the plate , the spaghetti usually follows the printer continuing to print in the area of a failed object , wobbling , fell ,moved

doesnt it auto clean the nozzle?

its not separate, it was perfect for like 2/3 and then it became spaghetti

How is it attached ? i think id still suggest a brim if it had started moving (wobbling)