This sounds almost like it could be some kind of compliance issue. They understand your question. They know the correct answer. However, there could be some legal issue in some jurisdiction with just saying it. It might not even be a problem in your jurisdiction, but it is a problem somewhere so there is a blanket policy to give a specific answer everywhere.
Maybe claiming it is dual voltage subjects them to some kind of rule. If they just claim it works at the voltage on the label they might not be subject to it.
They know you can ask around and get the right answer. They just canāt be the ones to give it to you. Iām guessing their official statements arenāt directly incorrect - just incomplete.
Never looked at it that light. Perhaps that is the reason. Not an issue. The community knows the correct answer and I move forward with that in kind. I do think they are over thinking. But your a new company and it may take time. Can you imagine laptop companies doing such a thing, or Apple or Samsung. But thanks for the thought. I was premature in asking. I eventually found the answer myself.
Finally got the issue resolved and my printer should arrive tomorrow. Was finally able to get away from the sales dept. and they said they felt maybe they were trying to spin this yarn for liability issues. But we were right it is dual voltage out of the box.
All this makes no sense. I just ordered one and was reviewing the specs preparing a spot. Almost 3X the wattage for a 220Vac when compared to 110Vac. The heat bed must be different with a different part number. It also means they are all voltage specific, not dual voltage, which is very unique in todays world.
Nope, itās the same bed. Double the voltage at the same resistance doubles the current draw ( I = V / R ) thus the power is 4 times as much because P = V * I.
Iāve been seriously contemplating running a 220V line to my Bambu printersā¦
Re-stated, a little substitution might make the large power increase from doubling the voltage more obvious.
P=V*I is the same as P=VĀ²/R
Bambu specs say the X1C uses 1000W@220V, 350W@110V.
But, at either voltage, some of the power is used to power processors, lights, fans, nozzles, etc., at lower voltages provided by the power supply. That part of the power consumption will remain essentially the same at either voltage. The power supply works on 85 to 264 VAC, or 120 to 370 VDC and is rated at 108 Watts.
The heat bed is just a resistor (about 48 ohm) and is the same part for either voltage. The current to the heat bed is controlled to maintain the set temperature. All that is needed to switch voltages is a cord with a plug to match the wall outlet.
My shop already has 110V and 220V outlets side-by-side in several locations. As usual, there are never enough outlets, so I expect that at some point Iāll be switching the X1C to 220V just to free up an outlet for another 110V tool.
Not to nitpick but isnāt the voltage controlled via a SSR/Triac? If they controlled via current they could maintain the same current draw across both voltages.
Assuming a constant heater resistance of 60 ohms and 120 watts of other loads. At 120v the power would be (120^2/60)+120=360W total. At 240v itās (240^2/60)+120=1080W total. Close enough given making assumptions.
Thanks for making me think. Iām much more comfortable with my planned power connection now.
I really donāt know how they do it. When I replaced my warped heat bed I did put a voltmeter on the bed connectors and saw line voltage. That was only a momentary reading, which does not prove anything.
My guess is that they turn it fully on (why you saw line voltage) till it reachers close enough to the set point to need some regulation via whatever algorithm they use.
The power is switched to the heatbed, probably with a triac, but the voltage is line voltage regardless. Typically, bed heaters are on/off. The rest of the printer runs on a regulated 24V supply.
Itās more complex to control the current/power on AC circuits. They would have to use phase control for that, since temperature changes fairly slowly a hysteresis based control is normally adequate.
I came across a 220 V plug in a box of electrical parts while looking for something else. !
Grabbed an old computer cord and changed the plug. Ran a couple quick comparisons.
Our ā110ā outlets are actually 122VAC, so the ā220ā is 244 VAC.
Started both tests with bed and chamber at 28 Ā°C, set bed to 90 Ā°C, measured time to temp with a stopwatch.
ā110ā took 6 minutes and 6 seconds.
ā220ā took about 53 seconds, maybe a second or two less because I looked away and stopped the timer a tad late. The numbers were changing quickly.
I think Iāll stay on 220.
110 promises a slightly higher max bed temperature, but Iāve not needed that yet and itās easy enough to change cords if I do.
These are great data points! The allure of faster bed heating is very tempting. I do wonder if adding heat that fast has any down sides in regards to the life of the bed/print surface?
Me too, but it was quick and easy. I wired the shop with eight 220 outlets long ago, mainly for woodworking machines. I would not have bothered if I had to put in a 220 circuit just for the printer. The cord change also freed up a 110 outlet, in a location where I often run short. If I can also save three or four minutes per print waiting for the bed to heat Iāll take it - life is gettinā short.
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