have tried many different settings (0.4nozzle), but eachtime same result
the ironed top layer starts off perfectly but after a while the smooth surface is gone. tried 0.2nozzle (pict) same thing.
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For this some pics would be great…
Ironing only really works well when the filament and temperature is calibrated properly.
It is not a solution to fix a rough top surface 
I don’t really use it much but when I do I struggle to understand the benefits.
My top surfaces are well acceptable and AFTER getting the ironing setting right the improvement only shows with certain filaments.
Whenever the top surface isn’t perfectly flat the ironing, IMHO, is not worth doing…
Im sorry, pushed a button thinking to upload a picture. hmm message gone.
still don’t get it how to get a picture from my gallery into the message.
Slow down speed for ironing and add 5+ top layers, 4 or less probably wont give satisfactory result. Also infill amount below the topmost layers will affect how level the top layer is and cause issues.
Did (again) what you suggested:15mm/s/ flow10%/6 toplayers/line 0.15/inset0.21/infill gyroid. result: still the same.
after ca 12mm of correct ironing it suddenly terminates the action.
The aspect looks like theextruder just passes without adding filmnt or having re-heated the last toplayer.
would like to add a picture but I do not understand how i can.
Agreed but since the object is destined to function as a smooth paint-mixing surface it has to be white and smooth.
Is there a procedure to calibrate temp as you suggested?
(finally found the picture-uploadbutton functioning).
this pict shows the last result with reduced speed etc. the funny thing is that it each time strats fine, but after a while it seems to stop ironing or something changes.
For that you need to use Orca and print a test temp. tower
.
As for the grid infill, try putting more layers on top. 4-5 at least. make the top monotonic line and the ironing rectilinear
I think in your pic I see part of your problem.
In order for ironing to work closely to advertised the top surface has to match.
Meaning the head has to be able to run over it in consecutive lines.
Not sure about the part- and direction orientation here but if possible try to rotate the part so the ironing will go from wall to wall and not from corner to corner.
In the pink part it also looks as if part of the infill pattern is showing through, not 100% sure though.
If that’s the case it could indicate a bit of over-extrusion as part of the problem.
Before going nuts on the problem:
Try a proper flow ration calibration to confirm/adjust the correct flow.
A temp tower is great but not that required for the problem at hand.
If you have no stringing issues and good layer bond I say the temp is good enough.
Which brings me to other possible solution:
I see three walls and a pin, otherwise a flat surface.
If I would REQUIRE a perfectly flat inner surface on this construction I would split it.
Several options here…
- Replace the pin with a staged hole to insert the pin once printed.
- Replace the walls with a stepped rim so you can pop it on and secure with glue (if required) after the print.
- Print the flat plat upside down on a smooth plate and then assemble the three parts.
Next on my list to make it simple would be to make the inner plate thinner to then print an insert upside down on a smooth plate that clicks or glues in place.
Both options are quite easy to do and should not affect the functionality of the part.
Last but not least: Cheating
If you replace the pin with an insert you can use one of the oldest tricks to cheat a smooth printed surface.
Sand down a failed print to collect a bit of plastic dust that you sprinkle over the surface and smooth our with a very soft make up brush - those won’t accumulate the dust as badly as normal brushes.
Cover with a cut to size sheet of baking paper (non stick) and use an iron to smooth the surface.
Just a bit under the cotton setting, little pressure and smooth movements with no stop should result in a mirror like finish.
Takes a bit practice though.
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thanks for your suggestions appreciated!
Obviously I have tried several settings before putting the question on the forum.
let me explain bit more in detail; the object where it is all about is the white (discolorisation of my gsm); item. its an paint-inlay, destined to mix watercolor pigments. it has to be as smooth as possible in order to spraypaint afterwards with car paint/coating.
thats the idea. however being a (retired) mech engineer I know that there are alternatives for the design but at this moment I want to understand what is happening. it also gave the samr result on a P1 with the same default settings.
the filament is in my opinion not the problem, I ve tried 3 diff suppliers inluding Bambu. all the same result.
sticking to the plate is no problem it adheres fine.
position changebtried. no difference.
I do notice that the various different settings have very limited result for that reason I wander if it is a matter of extrusion temp/cooling. because each test shows a smooth nice beginning which suddenly stops and starts to produce a few goog lines and then bad again. the pictures of the 2 objects with the pin show interruptions in layer exactly after the pin. since the objects are mirrored the mistake is mirrorred too.
because of this strange phenomenom of skipping a complete segment in 1 layer, I thought it had something to do with the ironing.
but not, the inlay has no pins just a wall all around.
note the ironed area is 2mm thick, so practically no infill. (toplayer 6)
question: could it be that there is a ‘build up’ of temp. (255°) which switches of the flow after a surtain time. it seems to iron on but without flow.
(raising the flow makes it worse). if so that would mean that more cooling is required during ironing.
is that possible to programme in the settings?
thanks for the cheating idea, didn’t think of that. have to try that when my wife is out (while using her steam iron)
rgds, Tom
Why all this trouble if you paint it anyway ?
A thin, brushed on coat with suitable paint or primer will create a smooth surface already.
A final spray coat should make it perfect.
Haha yes I expected that and you are right of course. But just starting to be a 3d printing fan with my brand new A1, I am learning the limits of the machine.
And smoothing is one of the things that it has not done acceptably in any case so far.
And thát should not be, so I’m doing something wrong.
I will continue with changing cooling (although not specified during ironing pfase) in the generic settings.
It printing right now, see what happens
