Sorry, no idea what you mean. Did my photos fail to load for you?
I think the author refers to personal Apple iCloud storage for pics
My curiosity regarding what would happen in case of a firmware reset win.
I didnāt notice any changes in the print quality with the new calibration settings.
I can confirm that it doesnāt. Setting up the pressure advance values one by one is dull, but it is doable. The pain of the process motivated me to think and find alternatives.
The only successful solution I came up with was to edit the starting g-code of the filament, adding a script that sets the pressure advance as a function of the nozzle size. It works flawlessly and doesnāt conflict with the machine-stored values; however, I cannot confirm which one takes precedence as the values are identical. I will find out after my calibration marathon.
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Orca slicer has actual pressure advance that works in the filament and survives reset , and forget for autoflow and auto dynamics it is rubbish . Good thing that it shares the Bambu Studio already user profiles
Iāve had similar issues with my X1C. I rely on the first layer for a smooth finish on smooth PEI to sell injection-molded quality surface layer to customers. For the last several weeks, I have been struggling with seeing layer lines that would nicely get squished into a smooth surface on that bottom layer. I tried all sorts of theatrics like adjusting z-offset, etc. No avail.
Can you clarify. When you performed the factory reset, was is on the latest firmware. Itās hard to understand if you are saying to roll back the firmware and then reset, or just reset after having completed the update?
Reset, after updating the firmware.
You said you re-calibrated after the reset. What do you mean? When I do a print, it does calibration lines and routines each time. Is there a specific function that does this? Iāve had the printer since early April and if I did a ācalibrationā, I do not remember.
Thanks, kindly,
Dave
Oh my, Iāve been using this printer hard since the beginning of April and have never had cleaning filament (quite frankly didnāt know it existed). It is still working quite well. I ordered cleaning filament from Amazon. How do you use it?
I use both Bambu Studio and Orca slicers, and until now, the PA was always defined using ElliĀ“s print. Yet I wanted to try the automatic filament calibration process; why do you say its a rubbish? It is not perfect, but surprisingly, it worked pretty well with the 0.4m nozzle. Not so sure about the 0.6mm nozzle results.
Yes, but the PA value from Orca is not shared with Bambu Studio. Additionally, the PA values stored in the printer are not shown in OrcaSlicer; I am unsure if they influence the printing settings. The only solution I found for using both slicers seamlessly was to add a custom script to the filament g-code.
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@JayZay Thanks a lot about the script idea . If you have the script can you please share it , I am thinking adding in the advanced section and using the orca slicer variable āpressure_advanceā from jason file as a parameter to the g-command if it works for BS
@JayZay i do not use Ellis print (in orca is called PA Pattern) as do not find it accurate( as too close to 110C bed plate for ASA/ABS and PETG i bump it 75-80C). and canāt see it clearly(old eyes). I use the Tower Method from Orca slicer a bit slower but better results. Also tried the line method worse than Ellis print. I guess is a personal choice
About the autoflow or using the new autocalibration mechanism , i did a few in the very early days when i got the Bambu and used the new mechanism when was introduced. and yes it gives printable results but was not satisfactory for me and not consistent. after a few recalibrations on the same material gave up. Also according to Bambu is 10% accuracy sometimes and they are working on improving it. According to my tests i get variations 6% with the new method. For the flow any thing above 1% starts showing up especially for PETG becomes a problem , and for PA anything above 2-4% starts showing on some prints satisfactory results , pure Manually i get the same results or with in 0.5%-1% each time . and do it once or twice only
Fw Update , factory reset , Calibration from the device section Of the Bambu/Orca slicer
or from the touch screen second menu-> Utilities button calibration
But after factory reset i think it asks you to do that any way on the touch screen
Of course. For setting the PA you need the typical Marlin g-code (bold - replace with your value):
M900 k0.03
Anyone who uses a single nozzle or filaments exclusive to one nozzle size only needs this line. On the other hand, a macro is required to set the PA value as a function of the nozzle size for those who use multiple nozzles.
What I came up with was a macro with multiple if expressions. It may not be elegant, but it works.
; Filament gcode
{if (nozzle_diameter[current_extruder]==0.2)}
M900 k0.02
{elsif (nozzle_diameter[current_extruder]==0.4)}
M900 k0.04
{elsif (nozzle_diameter[current_extruder]==0.6)}
M900 k0.06
{elsif (nozzle_diameter[current_extruder]==0.8)}
M900 k0.08
{endif}
Some notes: I couldnāt find the variable nozzle diameter, i.e. the placeholder, in the software manual. I also looked in the Prusa slicer and Slic3R, but I couldnāt find it. Prusa also seemed to change their macro language, making the information unclear.
After checking how they set up placeholders, it seemed intuitive that if one exists for the nozzle diameter, it should be associated with the current_extruder. I tested, received no errors during the slicing, and verified the g-code file.
I advise anyone who goes this way to check once or twice if the PA value is set correctly in the g-code before trusting the script.
If you have multiple BL printers, it is necessary to edit the macro, adding a similar conditional loop to first check which printer the g-code is for.
I have used ElliĀ“s PA pattern since I can remember, and besides being fast to print, I always got great results (2 passages). Regarding the size, I also find it hard to be sure of the best value in specific colours, but the mobile camera or a magnifier solves it.
I had a different experience. I had a couple of wrong flow ratio values with Polylite ASA black and FormFutura PETG ultramarine blue and PA with Polyterra filaments. But both correct and incorrect values were consistent. Before calibrating my filaments, I made many tests repeating some filament spools, using different plates and on other days. I even thought that the machine was rigged, so I changed the filament names delete settings, and the values were alleyways identical or very similar.
We may have different requirements; I test tolerance, precision and accuracy after calibration. Of course, I check the surface quality, but it is not my main concern.
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thanks for the script i will try to modify it and test it i use only 0.4 on X1c for the other printers the profiles are different any way something like M900 k[pressure_advance] for Bambu studio and Orca slicer only to use the visual value . but the profiles are filtered per printer type
For the flow with prusa i used some other methos but since then i use Orca slicer for the Prusa as well
Try this you do it slower but you do it once mot times and color/type does not matter :
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Iām so glad I found your postā¦ has the same issue, cleaned and changed everythingā¦ and just one reset and all sorted. Thank you!
I soooo hope this will also solve it for me! Iāve wasted so much material lately because of underextrusion and tried everthing even exchangde the extruder and hotend for new. 
If it works I must say why Bambu support didnāt suggest this. They had me jump through so many hoops with no result. 
I am having a very similat experience, been in touch with bambu support since the very beginning of september and everything except a factory reset is mentioned at this point. I have improved my print quality a bit by changing all the PTFE tubes, hot end and cleaning the extruder but still the reliability does not feel like the old days.
Can you please share your results?
I too have encountered under-extrusion problems recently, at the beginning I printed a perfect piece then the first dots/holes started to appear on the external walls, obviously I hadnāt touched anything on the slicer. I attach photos and hope a factory reset will fix everything
WOW
Thanks x 1 Million.
Fixed what I had been chasing for 2 months!
a huge thank you for the tip with the reset to factory settings after the update !!!
Without reset to factory settings, it looked like this after the update:
After resetting to factory settings and a full calibration, the result looked good again (better), but now the automatic flow calibration no longer works with the textured plates.
This has always worked well for me and otherwise a clean line always came out of the automatic flow calibration. Immediately after the update, no clean line came out of it, neither on the gold nor on the black plate.
the result is that the result got worse
the same day before update (good/ok for me)
And after the update 1.7 and factory reset
Right before the update, left (all) after the update (e. g. large seam and other problems)
Facts:
- X1C with AMS
- Sunlu/Jayo PLA Matte (Iāve been printing for months without any problems)
- 0.4 Nozzle, 0.2 Print
- New Hotend (1 Month old)
- Cleaned
- Full calibrated and cleaned
- Normal Print Speed
- All Prints fromt the same file (Bambu Studio 1.7.7 i think / file from November)
HELP!
I am unable to create a new post. Is this related in any way? I can not for the life of me print anything right now. The banding in the back right side of the printer is so bad. I have done all of the generic troubleshooting stuff. Right before this I printed 3 perfect cubes and before that I printed like 8 good reusable spools. Now I can not get a good print to save my life. I noticed this on the 25th or 26th. one of those days this started.
this happens on all filaments and slicer settings
this appears to be a problem with circles only