I have big discount with S4 and cost only $115 for the unit…
yess… I must dry it around 4-6 hours… according to the manual
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according to your picture and this is for all the bed plate… so, I just remarked the “if” function, so it will lower the Z for every bed type. is that right?
For small parts, it’s easy. For really long parts, it requires more skill. It’s not random, so the more experience you gain, the better able to manage it you get. The most common problems are shrinkage related: warping, delamination, and bed adhesion failures. Some ABS filaments are modified to make them easier to print.
I find ASA is more difficult to print than ABS, though that may be a byproduct of the particular ASA filament that I’m using.
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If possible, a good technique is to avoid long straightaways in your model. Instead, break them up into shorter, discontinuous sections, or find some other ways to interrupt the continuity. This helps to reduce and/or mitigate the shrinkage forces. For instance, this guy did that to reportedly good effect in his remix of this desiccant basket:
Orca Slicer has some settings that may also help. If you have drafts, you can enable draft shield in the Other section. There’s also a setting which can force odd layers to print in the reverse direction of even layers at the bottom of the Quality section. According to the in-line documentation, this can reduce tension that might otherwise accumulate in the printed part and thereby also reduce warping tendencies.
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never though we need an engineering diploma just to print something in 3D printing… 
If it were engineering you’d have to run calculations or an FEA simulation or something. This is more notional. He replaced the straight bands on the left, that were pulling on the edges as they shrank, causing the delamination. If you look at the right, what did he replace them with? Effectively, springs. Once you catch the idea, you can tailor it to your situation.
That section is only for texture plate. You have to find correct section for smooth plate, cool plate… whatever plate in there.
I’ve skimmed this.
In all the ABS I’ve printed I haven’t used the engineering plate. I find the smooth PEI is the best followed by the textured. I’ve actually only used the textured once for a whole birdhouse print.
On the PEI I’ll use the liquid glue from Bambu. Usually a couple of swipes and then go over it with a cloth. This spreads it and thins it a little. I can say I’ve never had warping or adheison issues, much to my surprise.
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Hi,
I use ABS from different vendors without problem. I mostly use the textured PEI-Plate without any glue. After cooling down the pieces release from the plate automatically. If using other plates remember the glue isn’t to keep the pieces glued to the plate but to get them released without destroying the plate. So use as less glue as possible.
For non Bambulab ABS I had to use a slightly higher bed temperature than the default, but all other params left as default.
Regards,
Martin
the default is 90 in P1S, i set it to 100 for Sunlu ABS. I emailed the sunlu support to asked about this. they said 100 should be enough, but still I’ve always got issue printed with ABS. right now, the only solution I use is using brim when printing (outer only, 3mm). even that could not guarantee 100 percent printing success… only on lucky day that I can get good result on the first print.
no mater what PEI plate I use, original bambu lab or bigtreetech… Smooth, textured, diamond shape, high temp and engineering… all give the same issue.
I was having a lot of problems with generic abs filament and just on a whim i selected the Bambu abs profile and it worked. I’ve found on most generic filaments, if i choose the Bambu filament profile instead of generic, i get better prints.
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Here’s my first print in ABS, Bambu labs ABS on my P1S.
Cleaned my smooth PEI plate and applied liquid glue and let it rip. Looks like it came out pretty good to me, have several more pieces to print.
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Started the other half of the previous part I printed. This ABS really prints clean, looks just like my PLA basic parts.
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success on the first print?
Make sure you save the project file. That way all the good working settings you’re using will be saved. Good big print in ABS.
Well done…
The wall thickness on the middle hole/pivot point? looks thin for the layer line orientation. You might want to consider either increasing the part thickness at that point or print it as a separate part. A part printed on a bed with the hole oriented vertically. That way the filament will wrap around the hole, rather than being layers that could snap off.
Regards
Norm
Did you put extra lights in there? Seems much brighter than my dim camera pics. Like the thermometer/hygrometer in the back. 