I have set and try some tips in this forum and other source, but it seems printing with ABS filament always have some random and unexpected issue.
I use Sunlu filament.
especially if I printed with many small objects in one go.
I use high temp plate and clean the plate proper.
I have pre-heated the chamber for 30minutes with temp 100C bed and 250C hotend, aux fan 70% and part fan 100%.
I use glue on my plate.
I set outer brim
… and yet, if I had a bad day, it still not print good and issue with the object was not stick enough on bed and create mess with noodle filament and I must stop and redo the process, split the object on 2 plate so it will printed less objects.
but on the sunny and lucky day, it will printed fine and finish great. no problem at all, but hardly to came like that.
may I know from member here if there are more tips and tricks to print many small objects on 1 plate with ABS and success everytime… or well, maybe more than 80% rate of success printed with ABS?
I need to print many small objects, like gears and connected joint with ABS. sometimes need to print a lot. seperate it with 2-3 plates are no problem, but It will be great if I can just use 1 plate to printed all in one go.
It’s seems like you’re already doing all the right things. Have you tried Bambu ABS?
I’ve found generic ABS to shrink more than the Bambu ABS. I don’t have a High Temp Plate, so I can’t comment. I use smooth PEI and textured PEI with a microscopic layer Bambu liquid glue and only use brims where you would with PLA as well. I preheat the cabinet by printing a short parts first. I will say things got a lot better when I started using Bambu ABS, I pretty much only buy their ABS, HF TPU and some PETG (which I hate printing).
To apply the glue I make 3 or 4 lines on the plate. Then i use a microfiber cloth on one of these Build Plate Cleaner by K-Studio.ca - MakerWorld which I scaled to about 30x30mm. Wet with IPA and wipe the plate to even it out until you don;t see any glue any more. After a while the cloth gets a good glue content it’s self and only needs to be wet with IPA again to refresh the plate.
ABS is my PLA now, I have 99% success with what I’m doing and the other 1% is normally my fault.
well… i never tries filament from bambu lab. is too expensive in my country.
I have double side textured and high temp/engineering plate from bambu lab. also have smooth/textured and diamond/textured from bigtreetech. I have tried it all with ABS and depend on my luck on that day for the result.
so, to make it clear:
clean the plate proper
pre-heat the chamber
apply the glue on plate.
wet the cloth with IPA.
wipe the plate evenly with cloth until not see the glue.
I print a lot of Sunlu ABS and almost never have problems. One thing I noticed in the settings you listed are the fan speeds. You really don’t want much cooling for ABS. I use NO aux fan and 10% part fan. Are you using the “generic abs” profile? Here are my settings:
Textured / PEI plate
No glue
No Aux fan
10% part cooling
270 hotend
110 bed
Try these and I think it will solve your problems.
Yes, correct. I only apply glue before a long print to make sure, normally I just refresh the plate with my ipa/glue soaked cloth. So maybe once or twice a week I use glue.
Forgot to mention, I use the stock bambu ABS settings, I only change the min layer times to get a quicker print on small single part prints.
oh, no… that’s only for the pre-heated chamber for 30minutes. when start printing, the fan and setting will be different…
below is my setting for the generic ABS i used.
what should i changed to have better successful rate printing with ABS?
P1S only 100C max for bed. I can set to 110, but it will give warning and continue only to 100.
Ohh, I see. So your settings are exactly the same as mine except for the bed temp. I’ve never used my P1S for ABS, I always use the X1C. I never realized the max bed temp was different between the two until right now. Have you tried the PEI plate? I hardly ever use the engineering plate, maybe with PAA or PA6.
yes, I have tried the PEI plate also… the bambu lab textured plate is PEI plate. the result almost the same with other plate… lucky day, good result, bad day… mehh…
so, if the setting is the same with yours, than this is really because of the filament itself… maybe sunlu in my country have a different something that effect the quality of the ABS filament. maybe I should dry it first…
One more thing, I see a lot of people say make the bed hotter but from my experience it seems make the warping worse when I did that. It may be because the temperature difference is bigger between the base and the top of the print that causes it for me. I only print with bed at 90C now.
Your climate is similar to mine. I always dry abs before printing. And keep it dry when not printing. Drafts are really bad for abs, keep fans off in printing room.
I’ve been printing ABS without problem, success rate is 99.9% no glue stick or anything. I printed over 20 rolls of ABS in the first 2 months after I bought my P1S.
Before that I had success rate about 70% printing with my old Anycubic mega i3. I’ve never tried magic goo, although I’ve tried all sort of things such as glue stick, hair spray, blue painter sticker, kapton tape, all different types of build plate surfaces including aliexpress TK99…
The trick to print ABS is:
1- Stable/uniform heat, 50C - 60C, inside the chamber
2- Good bed adhensive. In other word, just the right build plate that ABS can stick to
For no.1, enclosed chamber is a must, active heated chamber is a lot better. Good enclosed chamber should have good insulation. I know, P1S is enclosed printer, but how about putting P1S inside an insulated enclosure. It sounds crazy, but it is what I did. The enclusure does keep the heat and noise inside as well.
All above prints are ABS. FYI, I live in Sydney and it was around 16*C indoor for the previous winter when I printed those
For no.2, You just need to find a suitable build plate. Bambu texture build plate is okay, but I found the coating is too thick, and causes the natural color ABS stick too well to the point the print breaks apart leaving small pieces on the plate when trying to remove from the plate. Then it leave permanent marks on the plate after removal of residue plastic. For now I use the black textured pei plates from aliexpress that advertised as “ENERGETIC Textured PEI Pro”. I consider build plate as comsumable like filament which shoud be replace after like 20 rolls or so.
To reduce the maintaining of the build plate, I just keep my hand not touching the plate when trying to remove the print. You know, your hand/finger has oil/sweat which is how you left fingerprint at the crime scene.
Maybe one of those zip up enclosures would be a step forward, I’ve ran them previously with open printers and it makes the world of difference. As @duane777 mentioned upping the temperature isn’t always the best as the the layers inbetween the plate and the printing layer are cooling down and model dependent will shrink and pull up off the plate. PS. I run various brand ABS and find reasonably similar results, treating your filament to a good dry initially will help.
wow… that’s really something, build enclosure for the P1S…
it seems, the problem is with my filemant than. i should try dry it to try it again. because from what I read here, most of you have no problem printing with ABS, while I always have a problem with ABS… even with the same brand from Sunlu.
I am thinking to buy Sunlu S4 drybox. it is worthed?
today… I open a new spool of filament of ABS. a brand new one and try to print it without any glue, with engineering plate, bed temp 90C, without preheat the chamber. just put the spool into the AMS and print it… and this is what the result… well, today is a bad day I guess… must try to reprint it again with my old setting. preheat chamber, glue and outer brim.
You have bed adhesion problem, like the plastic was laid down gently on the bed. In my experience, ABS needs to be squeezed down hard to the bed surface for it to have good bed adhension.
Down a bit more like -0.06mm or -0.08mm, you can try do the samething for smooth plate or so.
Have you ever thought of trying different build plates other than bambu stock build plates?
By the way, I had very bad experience with “engineering plate”. I have x1c at work that had this “engineering plate” coming with the printer. This plate got damaged after the very first ABS print. The coating right under four corners of the print came off like it was spay-painted with a cheap aerosol can instead of proper suface treating and proper powder coating. And then I tried to print PA6, they call it engineering plastic, on this “engineering plate” and the result was spectacular, I got spagetti for dinner 10 out of 10. PA6 didn’t stick to the bed at all, gluestick or not. I wonder why bambu doesn’t sell this “engineering plate”
I had similar experience with my old anycubic mega i3, until I got that enclosure built, but now it is a cozy house for p1s.
It does provide some convinience, but I found those filament dryer are not enough for ABS. They can get as hot as 50-60C while ABS needs 80C.
I use kmart air fryer for filament drying and cooking as well. It does have dehydrate function which limits temperature at 80*C max and can set to be run for hours instead of minutes like conventional oven
yes… I have smooth/textured PEI plate and smooth diamond/textured PEI plate from bigtreetech… the result still the same with the original smooth/engineering original bambu.
ok… thank you for the advice… I will try this method… yes, I always watch this happend, they not stick enough to the bed, when it print the second layer, the first layer slowly start to wrap up and off completely after that and running around the bed like they have a free will…
so far, my engineering plate is quite “good”… I mean, I abuse a little with this plate and it still smooth and good looking and is already a month or so…
