I’m guessing this is a solution that would work without even needing to respool at all:
It’s obviously do-able, but I wouldn’t exactly call it a trivial upgrade. Also, it’s a bit lame how that video ends, with him not being able to close the lid, but maybe by now there are printable lid models available without having to design one from scratch.
Oh great, they raised the price $8 because of you. It’s now $34.99. 
I’ve been using Polymaker filament which only comes on cardboard spools and have not had any problems with the AMS.
My problem was with Sunlu plastic reel hubs too big for AMS spindles. Found Universal+spool+adaptor.3mf and the Makerworld site and it works great.
i had the best results with sunlu spools, they work for me with ono adapter or taking apart…
elegoo itried the cardboard adapters and had alot of problems…
i also tried just switching the core on to a bambu spool… it worked better but still sometimes had problems where the filament kind of was stuck too tight…
also tried Jayo… they dont fit inside the bambu spool… tried it with adapter rings and its basically lworking mut my ptfe feeder guide is now too thick and i cant close the lid because of 1mm…
so for now im basically most satisfied with sunlu spools…
basically all of them work as soon the filament is loaded… the problems always start when unloading the filament… so one color pritns are no problems with all any spool wich fits inside…the multicolor prrints are tricky lol
So it sounds like you ended up not needing to respool at all then,? Simply using a universal spool adapter was enough?
uwasagadoga69 is referring to an AMS lite here, which has spindles the spools ‘ride’ on.
Sunlu spools work fine out of the box on the AMS for P1/X1, but the hole is too big for the AMS lite’s spindles.
It’s pretty convenient to have both, since most spools will work on one or the other.
Yes, it would be good to have a respoler but right it just doesn’t make sense to print one of the curent models since the version of the used so called “Rack and pinion reciprocating” will by limeted to the specified with of the Bambulab coil.
Somehow it just makes more sense to go with two PWM regulators and two motors with different gear ratios, but apparently it looks like printing gears is just more of fun, people look for reasons to print. It`s may also better to lay the coil surface vertical rather than leaving it horizontal as with all current models. But for the 1-2 coils that I would have saved I certainly won’t draw for 1-2 days… and then there’s the mistake in thinking and until you have something that would be worth it, you sit on it for a whole week until the desine will run. Or even worse, you will start from the beginning a second time since everything you think thought was wrong 
Then I would rather throw the 1-2 rolls in the trash before I think about how I rewind them. And as always, one person copies the other without anyone really thinking about solving the problem… But one day someone has the time and will solve the problem and then the others can cry their eyes out and can ask themself why everyone is running to the person with the solution 
Your order of the spool holder is not an “overkill”. I work with the Creality “3D Printer Multi-kilo Feeding Holder” Pretty much the only thing I currently recommend from Creality. Something decent and you’ll be worry-free for ever. Every time I hear on a YouTube video something like “again a filament holder at the back of the printer” I just think - Oh my gosh, spend $20 on a filament holder that is 100 times better than anything they will ever deliver, than complaining about the filament holder behind the printer.
So your purchase may not be overkill… like me, you’re just way too late for the right approach… Your model looks a bit too wobbly to me (too cheap) as the fillament holder will survive multiple printers It can be something of quality…
I just now noticed it’s back down to its previous price.
I have had no problems with the 1.1 KG spools in my AMS. I used this model
Just remember the right and left side. If cardboard spool is a little mucked up, I use a flat screw driver to maker sure it is pushed into the ring.
It didn’t stay there long, apparently. 
It’s part of Amazon’s metrics. Multiple hits on an item usually bumps the price. It’s how they follow trends.
I finally got around to ordering the PCB’s for Tom Sanlanerer’s filament diameter measuring device. I figure rewinding is a good time to check so that I don’t inadvertently pass cheap filament into the extruder that’s too wide, causing it to jam. Anyhow, just thought I’d mention that the cost for the PCB’s is surprisingly low. For 5 PCB’s, the total cost charged me by JLCPCB was just $4.34, including fabricating the PCBs, slow boat shipping, and taxes. Compare that to OSHPARK’s quote of $7.80 for only 3 PCB’s, and I’m surprised OSHPARK is still in business at all.
So, just thought I’d mention it in case anyone else wants to build Tom’s Infidel measuring system. Looks as though it will be very inexpensive to build.
A respooler is not nessary. I printed rings and there is a universal print you can make to use cardboard and different size spools etc.
I put cardboard spools right into the ams. But i also printed the weight so when the spool gets low it won’t bounce around. Not saying i wont but i have not had any issues using cardboard spools.
I also clean the rollers etc. When i do machine maintenance.
When you print the rings, most of the times, you can’t close the AMS lid. The spools will stick when closed and locked. Then you have to print the AMS mod to use the rings.
Ya or do what i also did with my other ams. They have a printable lid spacer that holds the lid higher.
Now of course it won’t lock but it will close tight.
But i haven’t had issues with the rings i have an issue to where a couple if my spools are larger diameter than standard. But the lid spager will work. Also yes i have one ams with the hydra pro mod and my second ams is stock.
The lid spacers was one of the mods I was talking about. But using them it is getting hard to insert the filament without removing the lid spacer.
Either way something has to be printed for the cardboard spools to work.
I did the hydra mod pro in the ams. It not only will run cardboard spools but also adjustable rollers for larger and smaller spools. I only have 1 spool that the lid won’t quite close with but no biggie.
I still hesitate to print the hydra mod. The cardboard spools I have fits the BL spool when removing the side covers, otherwise I can respool them.
Oh i understand. I was also but it isn’t a bad print. The pain is transferring everything the boards erc and connecting properly. I have 2 ams units 1 stock 1 hydra modded.