I really double check filament calibration, made all the step, print flat layers perfectly, aswell as PA lines test, definitly not related to flow calibration, but maybe related to flow.
With Bambulab PLA : setting infill/wall overlap to zero give a very good result.
With low cost Geeetech PLA : a lot better but not perfect
Note for myself : never buy again low cost Geeetech’s PLA :), there is one filament (silver) I cant print (it clog at middle of each print) and others not look good (weird color) or seems to print with more issues than other filaments, at least it is cheap,11€/Kg but maybe I will throw away half of the seven spools I bought (joke they will go on my other printer)… finaly only the white seems to give good results.
I tried to detach infill and that’s not possible without applying a very strong force with a pliers and it not break at the bond.
How to do (not by priority, I think all are equally important) :
Dont use cheap PLA ^^
Set infill/wall overlap to -5% (or any value that is just sufficient to bond well, make tests, default is +15% !!)
Set 3 walls (rather than 2)
Print something with infill set to 5%,10% or 15%, stop the print before the top layer and check that infill bonding is good (in my case with overlap set to -5%, bonding is very strong and sufficient)
Other thing you can try, but probably less important :
Set inner & outer walls width to 0.42mm
apply the belt tensioning procedure
In my case it resolve all quality issues, at least the ones I was worried about.
If anyone have others ideas, please share ?
Thanks to @xbone86 , @ovendoor let me know if you succed with those settings ?
This setting is a trap and deserve to be fine tuned for each print, for instance for this model I just unchecked the box and it print just well without any artifact in half the time (10mm without option checked, 20mm with option checked) using eSUN PLA+ (now I remember already having some problem with similar settings in other slicers)
No it seems that a lot of picture have been deleted from the website it happened in other threads, this is really annoying, this thread was interesting but without pictures it is become understanding.
For filament, it is onften usefull to uncheck “slow printing down for better layer cooling”, specially on small part, this setting can result in banding, because some layers could be layed with higher flow/speed than other. (you can re-enable it if if you have tiny parts to print or low cost PLA that cure too slowly)
Also if you ar using good filament other than bambulab you may increase the setting “max volumetric speed to 20%”. (PLA default to 12% when it is not bambulab filament…)
Another thing I found useful (but not in filament setting) " is to reduce “infill/wall overlap” setting from 15% to -5% (yes there is a minus sign)
Last thing is adding a thrid wall, setting 3 rather than 2
Reducing infill overlap and adding a third wall give you better chance that your infill does not affect outerwalls quality.
Kepping a constant flow by unchecking “slow printing down for better layer cooling” also help for outerwalls quality to be all layed with the same speed/flow
EDIT:
I will try to replace missing pictures in this thread if I can found them or similar image
Hi I think I have similar issue I have this for mouth I have tried petg basic pla metal from Bambu lab pla marble from Bambu lab and esun pla+ I have tried everything please I really need some help the Bambu support don’t help me and I really don’t khow what to do anymore I print this on a x1c with a 0,4 nozzle and 0,16 layer height the picture I will show you is esun pla+ my filament are already dry I have put it many day in my filament dryer at 55 degrees so it’s can’t be moisture please I really need your help guys
I am trying the settings you mentioned on a slice of print that usually takes 6 hours. I am getting lots of banding in places that have through holes in the travel path - though it is not consistent around the entire print.
I’m having the same but more severe issue on the a1 mini, unboxed it a couple days ago and have had this problem ever since, tried siddament and bambulab white matte pla. I’m going to try to use orca slicer (precise wall) and also tune some settings as well, can anyone help?
I’m pretty sure BL addresses this type of print flaw in the Wiki > Print Quality page. It’s the (Slowdown for Overhangs) feature within the filament settings as well the speed setting tab within the slicer.
Issue I see is the slicer reduces the whole layer speed for the fact of “overhang” instead of reducing speed just before the feature “Hole, slot, arch”. Its pretty much gone if the whole model is performed at the same speed. You’ll see ghosting with embossed lettering as well but they state the (outer wall speed) being the cause for that, I try to deboss all texts
For the past few months, I’ve been grappling with a quality issue on the exterior walls of my 3D printed objects, characterized by overly visible horizontal lines, commonly referred to as “Horizontal Lines”. Despite scouring numerous forums in search of a solution, it appears that I’m not alone in this predicament, yet a definitive fix remains elusive.
In an effort to consolidate our collective knowledge and troubleshooting prowess, I’m extending an open invitation for all who’ve encountered this issue to join a singular discussion. This is an opportunity for us to pool our experiences, insights, and possibly, solutions, to overcome this challenge together.
To facilitate a more comprehensive understanding of the issue at hand, I’ve identified defects on my printed objects and shared photos for reference. If your experiences echo mine, or if you’ve fortuitously stumbled upon a resolution, your contribution would be immensely valuable.
Additionally, I’ve documented the issue in a video (link provided) and shared the STL file I’ve been using for my tests. You’ll find all relevant links, including the one to our forum discussion, below. Let’s unite in our efforts to troubleshoot and solve this pervasive problem. After all, there’s strength in numbers.
Found this thread as I’m experiencing exactly the same issue. Although there is very minor z-banding on smooth featureless walls, it’s far worse when there are holes or depressions which cause these horizontal ghosting bands.
I’ve literally tried everything already mentioned in this thread including the infill/wall overlap from the default 15% in increments all the way down to -5%.
Nothing makes it worse or better. AP and flow calibrations both automatic and manual with different values circling around the apparent manual optimals. Different speeds down to very slow. Different numbers of walls. Different infill, inner wall, and outer wall ordering.
Belt tensioning. z-rod vertical free play check (none at all).
Brand new hot end and extruder. No difference.
Different filament types, temperatures, etc.
Hundreds of test prints. Nothing changes it. The sad thing is I have a 6 year old QidiTech one-x that prints the test cube with the hole through the center perfectly but my brand new x1 carbon looks like craps.
Tech support has been making suggestions of different thing to try but nothing has worked.
What’s very strange, as you said, is that every time I change a parameter, the problem doesn’t get better or worse. It’s a very strange constant… problem.
That sentence summarizes my own experience with the P1s.
I use (rather wanted to use) the machine for prototyping technical parts. Adding features during a design iteration throws completely unrelated features out of the previously checked dimensions.
Even placing separate parts next to each other can influence the dimension when printing ‘by layer’. I encountered an incidence where placing a cylindrical part next to a basically square shaped part lead to a curved wall!
Another quirk is that cylindrical prints (on xy plane) are repeatably and spot on 0.2mm smaller than square parts with the same dimension.
In summary the machine seems completely inadequate for mechanical prototyping. I bought it because of ‘fast’ & ‘hassle free’ but the time it saves me in printing is lost in having to triple the amount of iterations till the printed part is dimensionally in tolerance.
Sadly I’m back to my old marlin bed slinger for now. For one-offs I get the job done faster and with less cussing.
There are months old threads in the forum indicating all these issues separately and no solutions.
I haven’t had the time do dive into seriously analyzing the problem. But to me, it seems to be a firmware issue regarding the motion planer and path smoothing tolerance.
With the support muppets and canned replies in the way of getting in dialog with an actual engineer I’m a bit hopeless that this will get resolved any time soon…
I too wondered if it was firmware but then you have @walidezza saying he and his brother have the same printer with the same firmware version and his brothers prints are perfect and his aren’t when comparing the exact same files.
I also have this problem. I’ve reduced the flow rate and infill-wall overlap and got slightly better looking outer walls but there is still banding/ghosting right after a hole or feature.
