I got a little problem on my prints, some may say it is normal and quality is good but I am not sure…
For the last three years I only printed with 0.6mm nozzle and 0.3mm layer height on a CR10SPro + DD, this gave me nice & pretty fast prints with visible layers but evenly disposed along the z axis.
Now I got the X1 Carbon with a more precise nozzle 0.4mm and I use lower layer height, but something is annoying me and I even dont know if it is normal or not…
Prints look nearly perfect when lightning with ambiant/diffuse light but they appear ugly when lightned from a low-angled light.
The above is a simple shape with only flat surfaces, when there is something on the flat surface like hole, text, etc… it create even more artifact as below :
For instance the hole make a band all around the cube, once again it is really small defect, not vievable from all angle, but I wonder if there are some way to improve this ?
I think maybe that because I am printing with big layers and big nozzle on my other printer, those little defaults are not as visible , lines are more apparent but they are evenly layed and suprisingly it looks better for me.
What I’ve tried so far :
belt tensioning procedure
removing z-hop & wipe
test with different filaments (including bambulab one)
printing in slow mode
test with a perfectly calibrated filament using Softfeaver calibration
there’s no problem, I’m too used to printing bigger which hides these little flaws
NB:
the problem appear on all faces, not only on x or y, neither more on the face facing the big fan
Picture are from print with 0.28 layer height, but problem appear on lower layer height too
I understand that an iregularity on a flat surface (hole, text,…) can cause a little change on the whole layer due to some kind of backslash/little play, but for the first picture I cannot understand why without any irregularity it is not layed perfectly
Thanks, unfortunatly I already tried that with 5%, note that maybe it is too low now…
EDIT : I forgot to mention that my nozzle clogged three times due to a brand new filament some days ago… I unclog it and dont think I did something wrong but maybe I should try another nozzle…
I have redo a belt tensioning procedure wich dont changed anything.
Interestingly, following your idea @xbone86 ,I set 0 for infill/wall overlap and 5% infill, the problem seems to be gone. But I need to do some more tests to confirm that. Also I looked inside the print at the infill and wall bonding was verywell, so 0 for infill overlap works well.
Now I need to test different filaments and other tests to see if that solution is reliable.
I really double check filament calibration, made all the step, print flat layers perfectly, aswell as PA lines test, definitly not related to flow calibration, but maybe related to flow.
With Bambulab PLA : setting infill/wall overlap to zero give a very good result.
With low cost Geeetech PLA : a lot better but not perfect
Note for myself : never buy again low cost Geeetech’s PLA :), there is one filament (silver) I cant print (it clog at middle of each print) and others not look good (weird color) or seems to print with more issues than other filaments, at least it is cheap,11€/Kg but maybe I will throw away half of the seven spools I bought (joke they will go on my other printer)… finaly only the white seems to give good results.
I tried to detach infill and that’s not possible without applying a very strong force with a pliers and it not break at the bond.
How to do (not by priority, I think all are equally important) :
Dont use cheap PLA ^^
Set infill/wall overlap to -5% (or any value that is just sufficient to bond well, make tests, default is +15% !!)
Set 3 walls (rather than 2)
Print something with infill set to 5%,10% or 15%, stop the print before the top layer and check that infill bonding is good (in my case with overlap set to -5%, bonding is very strong and sufficient)
Other thing you can try, but probably less important :
Set inner & outer walls width to 0.42mm
apply the belt tensioning procedure
In my case it resolve all quality issues, at least the ones I was worried about.
If anyone have others ideas, please share ?
Thanks to @xbone86 , @ovendoor let me know if you succed with those settings ?
This setting is a trap and deserve to be fine tuned for each print, for instance for this model I just unchecked the box and it print just well without any artifact in half the time (10mm without option checked, 20mm with option checked) using eSUN PLA+ (now I remember already having some problem with similar settings in other slicers)
No it seems that a lot of picture have been deleted from the website it happened in other threads, this is really annoying, this thread was interesting but without pictures it is become understanding.
For filament, it is onften usefull to uncheck “slow printing down for better layer cooling”, specially on small part, this setting can result in banding, because some layers could be layed with higher flow/speed than other. (you can re-enable it if if you have tiny parts to print or low cost PLA that cure too slowly)
Also if you ar using good filament other than bambulab you may increase the setting “max volumetric speed to 20%”. (PLA default to 12% when it is not bambulab filament…)
Another thing I found useful (but not in filament setting) " is to reduce “infill/wall overlap” setting from 15% to -5% (yes there is a minus sign)
Last thing is adding a thrid wall, setting 3 rather than 2
Reducing infill overlap and adding a third wall give you better chance that your infill does not affect outerwalls quality.
Kepping a constant flow by unchecking “slow printing down for better layer cooling” also help for outerwalls quality to be all layed with the same speed/flow
EDIT:
I will try to replace missing pictures in this thread if I can found them or similar image
Hi I think I have similar issue I have this for mouth I have tried petg basic pla metal from Bambu lab pla marble from Bambu lab and esun pla+ I have tried everything please I really need some help the Bambu support don’t help me and I really don’t khow what to do anymore I print this on a x1c with a 0,4 nozzle and 0,16 layer height the picture I will show you is esun pla+ my filament are already dry I have put it many day in my filament dryer at 55 degrees so it’s can’t be moisture please I really need your help guys
I am trying the settings you mentioned on a slice of print that usually takes 6 hours. I am getting lots of banding in places that have through holes in the travel path - though it is not consistent around the entire print.
I’m having the same but more severe issue on the a1 mini, unboxed it a couple days ago and have had this problem ever since, tried siddament and bambulab white matte pla. I’m going to try to use orca slicer (precise wall) and also tune some settings as well, can anyone help?
I’m pretty sure BL addresses this type of print flaw in the Wiki > Print Quality page. It’s the (Slowdown for Overhangs) feature within the filament settings as well the speed setting tab within the slicer.
Issue I see is the slicer reduces the whole layer speed for the fact of “overhang” instead of reducing speed just before the feature “Hole, slot, arch”. Its pretty much gone if the whole model is performed at the same speed. You’ll see ghosting with embossed lettering as well but they state the (outer wall speed) being the cause for that, I try to deboss all texts
For the past few months, I’ve been grappling with a quality issue on the exterior walls of my 3D printed objects, characterized by overly visible horizontal lines, commonly referred to as “Horizontal Lines”. Despite scouring numerous forums in search of a solution, it appears that I’m not alone in this predicament, yet a definitive fix remains elusive.
In an effort to consolidate our collective knowledge and troubleshooting prowess, I’m extending an open invitation for all who’ve encountered this issue to join a singular discussion. This is an opportunity for us to pool our experiences, insights, and possibly, solutions, to overcome this challenge together.
To facilitate a more comprehensive understanding of the issue at hand, I’ve identified defects on my printed objects and shared photos for reference. If your experiences echo mine, or if you’ve fortuitously stumbled upon a resolution, your contribution would be immensely valuable.
Additionally, I’ve documented the issue in a video (link provided) and shared the STL file I’ve been using for my tests. You’ll find all relevant links, including the one to our forum discussion, below. Let’s unite in our efforts to troubleshoot and solve this pervasive problem. After all, there’s strength in numbers.
