Unfortunately an extra fan on the right side won’t work
Sits too low, if you look you’ll see that the left frame sits higher than the right frame, I should hsve checked that before hand
Oh well, now I’ve got a spare fan lol
As for the wiring other than slapping together a 1 into 2 Y connector and a male to female JST MX 1.25mm 4 pin set up (JST MX 1.25mm with 4 pins is the plug ends for future reference) no harm no foul
I’m still going to entertain running 2 fans but the factory Bambu Lab fan is a no go for the right hand side of the printer
It’s more than that. Two airflows blowing at opposite ends with each other most likely will reduce cooling efficiency (from an energy perspective and probably more importantly for a lot of users, from the acoustic perspective). It’s already a loud machine for many people and two opposite fans are likely to be louder for much more minimal gain.
Just because people do it for the Voron doesn’t always mean it’s the best idea. I took a look at the Bambu part cooling system, and noticed they make an effort to ensure the two cooling ducts do not intersect airflows with each other, which is not what the custom duct for one of my other printers does (someone online designed it). I managed to bump up cooling and overhang performance a bit by deliberately covering up a portion of the cooling duct fans so that they would not turbulently blow against each other. That’s what really made me think the single aux fan may have been a deliberate loudness vs performance choice. Besides, I usually run them at the default 70%.
I do suspect they could have improved the duct design somewhat, but maybe it was taking into account the fact that most parts are centered, and the only parts that aren’t centered are bigger ones that have more time to cool anyway for each layer. I actually have been doing some tuning to try to push the Bambu to its upper limits and I’ve generally found that the hotend is really quite limiting while it’s stock, so I don’t think spending money on extra cooling necessarily made a lot of sense. If you actually test PLA for mechanical strength, I’ve actually found that you can really only print in the ~14mm^3 range running at 240 (depends on exact PLA brand, etc.) without significantly losing z strength. You sure can print and cool parts at faster flow rates but many of them will have very poor z-strength, as I eventually found out. I haven’t pushed PLA much hotter - you’ll get better flow, but it gets closer and closer to heat creep related failure.
Realize the Vorons running aux cooling fans are usually designed for speed racing, and most videos will give you the whole warning about “warning this is bad for your ears.” That is actually how loud those systems are.
My thoughts are running dual fans at a far lower spwed will not only produce more even cooling but also be quieter, not that the noise affects or bothers me personally in the slightest but to many others noise is an issue
The other setback from the oem BL fan is it will not clear the right side of the bed where it scans
Plan B is an aftermarket 24 volt 5 amp 4 pin fan with a different shroud design that I’ll mess with myself in Fusion360, I’m not going to modify a perfectly good replacement fan for the soul purpose of testing
You brought up Voron printers, that is exactly why I want to run 2 fans but they must work in conjunction with each other, operate at a lower RPM, not create too much opposing turbulence and most importantly cool evenly and efficiently
I knew when I ordered the oem fan that my worst case scenario would be a spare fan that I can add to my pile of spare parts
I should add that I run the CHT nozzle mod on my X1C which has increased my print speeds so more efficient cooling is the next logical step in my opinion, plus I’m having fun regardless of the end results
I would try making a duct insert for the OEM fan that changes the airflow direction, and see if you can create a vortex effect. Not blowing directly on the part, but at a 35*-45* angle towards the door so with the door closed it will swirl the air in the chamber and provide airflow on all sides of the part.
I printed that assembly out but in my opinion it looks janky and the clearance between the fan duct and the lidar is too close
There is another way that will work better and look more factory
One of the fan designers runs his secondary aux fan off the chamber fan j connection on the mc board which again I’m not sure if I like the idea of eliminating the chamber fan
Those files are perfect for a P1P or an X1 but for the X1C its lidar detector is a speed bump
There is already a parts fan that blows on both sides of the part. That fan is to assist hence the name AUXILIARY fan.
And if there is an issue if you look at the bottom under the heat bed guess what there is an area for a other fan so then it blows on both sides of the part.
Arf… you should educate yourself more on this topic, and collect some additional information about 3d printing, there are tons of website that explain different architecture, many 3d printer don’t have auxiliary fan, it’s not required to have one to make good 3d print, but putting one at the center that’s just cover half of the bed is a very strange choice, that’s the only point of this thread, talking about this but in a more knowledge way.
EDIT: hum… also to explain a bit about the post before. It is well know that if you print big parts (large surface) without island, you can even print PLA without fan at all (this is basic knowledge, not related what I was pointing wich is why they put a single centered auxiliary fan, it is like making half of the path, it is a bizar choice)
The purpose of the Aux fan is really just to “stir” the air, I think. Hot air rises, the air “stratifies” and you get a thermal gradient from the top to the bottom of the enclosure. The Aux fan forces air to circulate from the bottom to the top and should result in a lower gradient. Kind of like a ceiling fan stirs the air in a room so that the temperature distribution is more uniform.
This is exactly how I use the Aux fan. It aids general cooling when run at a lower setting. It can also be used in a heat soak of the printer prior to printing ABS or Nylon etc.
Just my view the 2 new P1S I have had thus far had 2 print failure when I’ve filled the bed, the first one I just took it as a one off but again tonight 1 hour from end big layer shift and a failed print. Due to it being a P1 I didn’t have the beauty of spaghetti detection I have on my 2 X1C. So I took the SD card and scrutinised the print video I can see towards the end a part becomes loose from the brim near the camera then another. I’m with you on the elements of aux fan off now I just keep forgetting I think honestly the best way is to have lid off door open and fan off especially if beds full when using PLA, central prints are thus far fine. I think the closer you get to the aux fan the more chance You have of things springing loose
I’ll run another one tomorrow and see what happens but this time with fan off
