Hey guys,
Im a 3D printing noob. I just completed a print of multiple boxes and I think I have stringing issue. Im not quite sure if this is actually stringing since the strings are a bit thick and some of them are located on surfaces where the nozzle shouldnt be traveling away from.
Printer: P1s with AMS
Slicer settings: 0.2mm standard profile
Fillament: Kexcelled K5M ( Not wet ) PLA
I tried printing a temp tower but the fillament was printing fine on all tempereatures.
Any suggestions?
out of pure curiosity how do you know it’s not wet?
I just opened it from the seal it arrived in. Isnt it supposed to be dry when its sealed by the manufacturer?
There’s no “supposed” in 3d printing.
But your pic’s do not like stringing. That is more like spider sild. What it looks like is the filament needing calibration (and maybe drying, that is a pre-requisite for successful troubleshooting).
It’s supposed to be, rarely is.
Never assume it’s dry, especially if it prints like it isn’t.
If you have a way to dry it then I’d do that first, then try your print again.
Also whenever in doubt try another filament, hopefully one that is known dry. If you get the same results then it’s your profile setting, or the printer. If not, it’s the filament.
Obligatory
They do what they can to minimize picking up additional water while waiting to be delivered to users, but the filament turns out to be all sorts of different water contents. Plastic films have varying degrees of water blocking ability. Don’t know about Bambu’s shipping bags but for water infiltration the bags are generally multilayer and thickish. Bambu may or may not use them. At any rate, the spools I’ve tested so far straight from their shipping bags have been 42% humidity and 40% humidity for PETG HF. That number won’t make sense without the method - next paragraph.
You can get a handle on filament water content by doing this but there’s not good guidelines yet. But it still gives a good idea where you are: Print flaws - #14 by MZip
Thanks for the replies,
@MZip @johnfcooley @EnoTheThracian
I know i did not mention that in the post, but i calibrated my fillament using Bambu Studio and everything was fine. Also, The lids for the boxes i printed turned out great. Can a wet fillament cause issues on some parts of a print but not others?
I don’t know the answer to that but maybe? Different parts of a print will have different flow rates to match the different extruder speeds like how it slows way down for overhangs, flow rate also needs to change. That will change things a bit in the extruder but whether that affects the moisture effects I couldn’t say. Maybe others will know?
I don’t know what you are seeing is moisture, though. I was just replying about brand new filament moisture content. I suspect it is and that you have calibrated might add more weight to that. The environment in these isn’t homogeneous. Doors open, lids, air currents, the fans, etc, could all also affect different parts of a model and might make for different levels of defects too but that’s hand wavy.
I’m not sure what you mean by that unless your referring to the line tool which is like using a sledge hammer to fix a squeaky hinge. 
Not very accurate. There is no calibration utility worth anything in Bambu Studio, for that you will want Orca Slicer which is a Bambu Studio clone that offers baked-in calibration tools. Calibration · SoftFever/OrcaSlicer Wiki · GitHub You can safely run both slicers on your machine, you don’t have to choose but I will promise you, as you gain more experience, you’ll find that the calibration tools are only the beginning of the quality of life enhancements that Orca delivers on. It can be downloaded here.
However, having said that, your issue as others have already pointed out is classic symptom of wet filament. I know you said you took it right out of the box and I bet you thought you were buying a product that when through thorough quality control, didn’t you? Well… welcome to the club of those who have been burned many times before with “fresh” filament that had an overabundance of moisture.
Before you dry the filament though, you will want to weigh it. If you are new to this then one tool you will want in your tool bag is a cheap kitchen scale if you don’t already have one. They can be had for between $7-15 on Amazon. Don’t overpay, you’re not looking for accuracy, you’re only need measurement sufficient to show weight reduction. Any scale of resolution of 0.1g is good enough.
Why is weighing so important? If I had a dollar for every time someone said, “I dried my filament…” 
The only way to ensure that moisture was present and has now been removed is by weighing it. How do you know if you’ve removed enough moisture? Generally, the drying guidelines on the Bambu filament cheat sheet are a good guide. PLA normally doesn’t need drying—until it does. The easiest way to know when your filament has lost all moisture is when, after a few hours, it stops losing weight. That’s when you know you’ve removed enough moisture.
Here’s a post on that topic of drying times.
BTW: There are so many posts here on what filament drying to purchase. But before you spend unnecessary money, take a look at this YouTube video and save yourself some money until you know what you really want. Among filament dryers, there’s way too much BS, Hype and just generally bad products out there. How do you know when it’s bad? That’s easy, the more it costs and the more the person in the review video says “this is the best”, the more you should call BS.
You already own a free filament dryer even if you don’t realize it.
Ding Ding Ding. Well said, the whole reply.
I have something to do now…
Love this, have to quote this
Just change filament dryers to anything and it’s still true
