Was wondering if anyone had successful printing in Taulman 645? I’ve googled and looked through the forum and only one user has stated success using the “Generic PA” profile. I tried using this profile and it hasn’t been giving consistent results.
I’m using the X1C with Textured PEI Plate and printing the Taulman 645 out of a Sunlu Filament Dryer. The filament has been dried for 12+ hours at 65C prior to printing, and had the dryer running while I was using the filament to print.
I’ve also tried dialing the settings to match the Taulman spec and it’s doesn’t work either.
My main issue is getting the print to stick to the bed. When printing the calibration cube (found from above link) or a Benchy, the print pops off the bed after the first layer. Mostly on layer 2, sometimes on layer 3. Sometimes, the filament won’t stick to the bed at all. Using a brim also does not stop the print from popping off the bed.
Things to note:
Printing at 100C bed temperature (from Generic PA profile), the print will start to warp
Printing at 60C-80C bed temperature would not have warping, but the print would still pop off the print.
The plate has been cleaned with hot water and dish soap (no abrasives used) numerous times and in between trial prints with this filament.
I am able to print PLA, PETG, and TPU with no issues, but I have not had a single successful print with this 645 filament.
At least until I had the settings dialed in, I would use glue stick with the Engineering or High Temp plate. You can apply glue to textured PEI, but it is hard to get an even layer.
Before beginning the print, preheat the build plate until the chamber temperature stops rising. Some users tape the openings of the printer shut, or insulate the walls, to keep the chamber temperature high.
Thank you for your suggestion. I’ll try using the Engineering plate with glue and preheat to 80C and will report back with results.
Should I use the Generic PA profile or a custom profile based off the manufacture spec? The nozzle and bed temp are quite different between the spec and Generic profile.
I can’t predict a good bed temperature. I have found that my X1C seems to work better with nozzle temperatures at or slightly above the normal recommendations. I don’t know if is just a characteristic of the sensor on my printer or if it is because the hardened steel is a poor heat conductor compared to the more common brass nozzle.
If you can get your prints to stick for more than one or two layers, a temperature tower should help you find a good nozzle temperature.
Thanks for your response. I am currently printing a Benchy on the Engineering Plate with 100C bed temperature and glue. I tried printing it earlier but it failed at layer 10. Current chamber temperature is 48C.
As of writing this reply, I’m at layer 84/240 and it’s stuck well!
Any new thoughts on this material? Has anybody tried any of the recommended solutions listed on matterhackers?
“645 will not print/stick to glass or aluminum print tables. The best table material for a new user is a flat piece of unfinished poplar wood or blue painters tape. These are at all hobby stores or home depots. For perfect adhesion, use low cost garolite (LE)”