At the beginning, I’m new in Bambulab community and I’m happy to be part of it!
I got my printer less than two weeks ago.
Amazing, with copmare to printer that I had ealier…
The most important thing to me, is to have good outside finish.
So I rotate the model and tried to print with support inside, using AMS and PLA support.
Both filaments are BambuLab - PLA-CF and Support_PLA.
Printed on PEI plate. 0,16mm 0,4 nozzle, almost stock settings, differences:
seam positions random;
ironing enabled on all flat surfaces;
infill gyroid;
wall loops 3;
I decreased the first layer speed to 20mm/s
I put small modifier to decrease first few layers.
I had issue with the printer, that (propably) nozzle hit the model and model detaches from the plate. Printer prints in the air.
P.S.I uploaded timelapses on YT:
I have the timelapse, but I can’t see much because of black plate and black filament…
What slicer are you using and version it will help us know what you are using for other settings
I think your tree supports is what caused your problems with the pla-cf filament.
This is what I would change from your settings if using the Bambu Lab slicer.
Turn the prime tower off not needed for this part with support interface it’s only needed for color changes on some models.
Set your supports to this in the Bambu Lab slicer I added a very small top Z distance do to the pla-cf might bond to good on the support W interface layers and this will help it break away.
Thanks for your input. Yeaa good point and sorry that I forgot to mention the slicer.
At this moment just Bambu Studio as standard.
Also got installed the OrcaSlicer but not in use right now.
Regarding the Z-hop, 0,2 or something similar will be okey ?
I also made second model exactly without the prime tower to avoid the movement between these two. And part came out preety nice outside.
I also set up the Bambu-Support for PLa as only support interface. This speed up the prints and I had only 10 changes filament.
I also setup the 3 layers for interface with the main model, for better support removal, but this not help a lot.
The problem now is not so good finish inside (not sure why this happend, but it is not so important for me).
Second problem that, the support are to strong. Even with Support filamet, the rest of it still stick to the part. Its hard to remove it without destroing something. I need to workout something.
This is how part looks like inside, outside everything is fine.
Z-hop can be a solution if the filament is leaving line marks on top layer surface but some filaments like petg can string with Z-hop so you have to find the best setting for the filament.
The cup you might be able to print it standing up with a layer height of 0.15 but don’t go any lower or you can get under extrusion with pla-cf
The problem in the inside of the cup is overhangs speeds and wanting more cooling so you will have to lower your overhand speeds down to like 0, 20, 15, 10 and maybe put the aux fan setting @ 30% for this part.
The support W can stick to much that’s why you need some top z distance with it also the new Ocra slice will have interface cooling option but this will be for other filament do to pla fan is @ 100% all the time anyways.
I don’t use support W. I like petg interface layers with pla better or I use pva - usm support interface filaments.
Your original problem was not using a brim or raft so the cup got pulled off the plate at some point near the end. PLA does not stick great on the PEI plate so make sure you have more surface area. The rim of the cup is not enough.
I don’t know much about the support material but the Bambu website says it is not compatible with PLA-CF. It also says the “Bambu PLA-CF is designed to support itself. It can be removed more easily compared to regular PLA, and still maintains a smooth support surface.” I always do supports in the same material and it mostly works fine.
The easiest answer is that this model does not need supports at all. Turn it over and print it with the bottom on the build plate. I’d still add a brim but probably not necessary.
At this moment I used 0,16mm, I need this with good details and quality ? When I will use 1,5mm height for layer I will lose the quality ?
I will check this ! I also made some modifiers ealier to lower the speed at the bottom.
I’m not sure if no brim is the issue here. As I wrote at the beginning the part not stick to the buildplate while I used the prime tower. When I disabled it, model stick to the buildplate well. No issues with this. This is why I’m wondering and I think that the nozzle hit the model.
Oh thanks ! I didn’t check that. You are right.
My first prints was standing, flat down. but I didnt get good quality near the breast. And I rotate it, then I got better quality near the breast. Below with tree support for breast. PLA but no-Bambu
Yep my bad should of been 0.15 min layer height pla-cf sorry about that but good catch
With regular pla you can also use the variable height tool this will help with the overhangs and also slow your overhang speeds down.
You can also move and rotate the cup on the built plate in front of the aux fan so the big overhangs get more cooling set the aux fan to like 30%
On support interface I have used all kinds of stuff they say will not work but yes some stuff is easier than others to not bond to good and sometimes it just getting the right settings and it will still work you have to test it out like petg will work for interfaces with pla but they will tell you it will not work
Where i can find this tool ? Unfortunately I can’t find it.
I already tried this in some of my iterations I went crazy and even set it to 100%
That as my thoughts ealier to place this in the direction of aux fan and enable it a little. But there was no influence and any improvments visible.
The funny thing is that, that maybe there is also problem with stick to buildplate. Its strange, its looks like that part sometimes like to stick, sometimes doesn’t. I will try again with brim. I’m aware that there is small surface on first layers, but I print in that directions few times, no sticking happend first time.
Top tool bar is the variable height tool. Find a youtube video so you can learn more about it. Look up the Prusa slicer variable height; it’s the same thing.
Do you have your texture bed plate @ 60c this has been working for me with pla.
Washer your bed plate with dish soap and hot water to clean off also when I have a part that might have a weak bond to the bed plate I use glue it will help hold the part better I don’t use brims unless it’s like PA or ASA filaments and it depends on the part design if it might warp.
This works and is easy to get Elmer’s craft bond extra strength glue stick.
Another trick if you don’t know you can also tilted a part @ 45 angle and use tree supports at the base.
Get you some basic pla and test it out or download some test parts then you can test your settings out or cut the part up and test those areas that are giving you trouble this way you save on filament and keep a log of what works.
I would recommend the Orca slicer. It has way more settings for your X1 you can even put a brims on your supports only.
Hi, I’m going to try a multi color AMS print but the Prime Tower looks completely wrong. Shouldn’t the layers in the prime tower be horizontal like the layers on the part?
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