I have a Bambu P1S that I bought in August, and I’ve only been using Bambu filament. I’ve upgraded it with the Hardened Steel Extruder Gear Assembly and a 0.4 Hardened Steel Hotend.
For a while, everything was working well aside from the occasional camera streaming error. However, recently I’ve encountered a problem with taller prints failing halfway through. It looks like a layer shift, but I don’t think that’s the issue.
For example, in the most recent print, only the back side shows a shift while the other sides are printed properly. The ‘floor’ of the print is also a mess. I’ve tried printing this model twice:
First attempt: Used grid infill with stock standard profile.
From the file you sent, the surface with issues is a complete overhang. It’s a miracle you got it to print that well.
Tick the “enable support” box. and reprint. Then you should be fine.
Printed with supports and the floor is still wobbly and really bad quality.
And the problem on the back that looks like a layer shift is still there. And now it’s on every side. On right it’s inside, on left is outside lip, on back outside lip, and on front outside lip.
(Outside I’m referring that the top part is over the bottom. And inside that the top part reverse)
Every taller print has this sort of problem usually on the back side. This model is just the most extreme failure
As for the Makeup Organizer Box, I’m not surprised that you get perimeter surface issues with that one as there is a huge cross sectional change above the drawer box space and very long overhangs to boot. This will create significant contraction forces/tension that can easily deform the thin outer walls.
As for other “Layer shifts”, there can be several reasons behind that, like large changes in layer times caused by part design or build plate layout with other parts on the same plate, positioning in relation to the Aux fan and speed settings thereof and there are more so it will be difficult to analyze that without more detailed info from you.
I think you’re expecting 3d printing to be as good as injection moulding. For some parts, it might get close. For others, they present difficulties.
You have large flat surfaces that will contract and distort the part. There’s a large rear wall and an open front, so you’d expect it to shrink at the rear. The surface finish on the now supported surface is not bad for that length of supported surface.
The change in layer you are seeing is probably due to the increased time the printer is spending on the start of the internal floor. The longer time for that results in a longer time for the external walls to cool and what looks like a layer shift. It’s not a layer shift in the sense that the printer has missed a step, just the additional print time for that layer allowing additional time for contraction of the part.
For this model, what you’ve printed is about as good as it gets. The quickest way to improve the finished result would be with sanding, filling, sanding again and spraying. Alternatively, you could put a different coloured band around the box externally to give it a colour accent and hide the imperfection.
You could spend a lot of time changing settings and not get it any better.
