I need people to run the motion accuracy calibration, because so far I’ve done it three times back-to-back and I’m getting very different results each time. I didn’t touch the printer or the plate at all—I just pressed the button to start the calibration, that’s it.
So why are the results so different?
first calibration
second calibration
Third calibration:
on the screen bambu say:
The hollow dots in the image represent the motion accuracy before the calibration.
Note: the deviation in the grid diagram is magnified and does not represent the actual scale.
I understand that the diagram exaggerates the deviations—so what looks like a big gap on the screen might be much smaller in reality. That makes sense.
But here’s the issue:
- I shouldn’t be getting new results if I haven’t moved the plate.
- Some calibrations show points shifted up, others shifted down. It doesn’t make sense.
- second and third look like the same, but why is the first one different, and if “The hollow dots in the image represent the motion accuracy before the calibration.” then the hollow dot and filled dot should take the same place and not telling me before you did the calibration this was what you had, and now you have this.
Can others run multiple calibrations in a row and share if they get the same kind of variation?
here is a fourth calibration
i read on the forum that the calibration is reset before a new one, that explain the similar result for 2 , 3 and 4 but not for 1
1 looks reasonable, I don’t know how you got 234 tho. Sounds stupid but do you have the protective cover removed?
Ok, I was like, what does he mean by protective cover? I don’t have any protective cover on it—I mean, I didn’t see any on the texture plate, so why would there be one on this one?
It looks clean, no way there’s a film on it…
ooooooooo 
So yeah, turns out I did have one.
I redid the calibration:
The result is almost the same, but there are some very small differences.
but good new it it seem even with the plastic its able to read it anyway
Good news though—it seems that even with the plastic on, it was still able to read it anyway.
Still, they really should’ve put some writing on the plastic cover telling you to remove it, or at least a popup on the H2D the first time you use it. Honestly, until I checked the wiki and saw ENSURE THE PROTECTIVE TRANSPARENT FILM IS REMOVED FROM THE PLATE, I would never have guessed there was one.
Because—and I know this is my fault—most protective sheets on panels and similar items are not transparent.
I think I know why calibration 1 was different from the others.
Calibration 1 was done without anything on top of the printer (except the metal cover of the H2D). But for calibrations 2, 3, 4, and 5, I had my AMS 2 on it.
I guess with the added weight it’s either more stable, or it influenced the vibrations of the toolhead movement (kind of weird).
Can anyone tell me if they get the same results with and without “weight” on the H2D?
Weight doesn’t change but lighting do
Yes, but the top of the printer is not transparent, so placing anything on it doesn’t create a shadow, so the only variable i see is weight
