I’m fairly new to printing but have 250 hours on my X1C mostly trouble free other then normal learning curves. I’ve been trying to print with the PAHT that came with my X1C and for the life of me can not get it to adhere without warping/peeling. After a lot of research I’m still left with troubles.
So far I’ve tried both smooth and textured PEI plates, both thoroughly cleaned with dawn and dried. Tried with and without glue stick, various settings, temperatures (as hot as 300 nozzle, 115 bed and as low as 270 nozzle, 90 bed) etc. After some research I’ve had modest luck with a skirt of multiple layers and a good sized brim but the brim always starts to come up, however I have had two good prints where only the brim came up and it did not reach the part. Also tried pre-heating the enclosure to 50-60 before printing.
Ive also printed with PETG-CF with zero issues, for some reason I just can not reproduce with the PAHT-CF. Using a .6mm Bambu nozzle and have tried .18mm, .24mm and .30mm layer heights. Any help with what I’m missing would be appreciated.
Once you have dry filament it is important to understand this is a enclosure filament which means it depends on being at a certain chamber temp for good results. So what most people do is heat up the bed a bit early and allow the chamber to soak up heat until its 40C+ ???
With these issues I would keep the bed at the higher range you have stated (115C).
Finally, I’m not sure about going below 0.30 layer height with a 0.6mm nozzle, but I’m no expert there, I would research it to understand the min layer height to nozzle diameter ratio (I think less than half is getting a bit thin).
Thanks for the info. One question on the drying, I did see that in my research although I cut this out of the manufacture vac package a few minutes before using, should I still be drying even after opening new filaments? I had assumed it would be dry inside the vac package but that may have been a bad assumption. Will also play with nozzle heights to see if that makes a difference.
If I had a dollar for every post that included this statement…
Never trust the manufacturers. You will find this forum replete with examples of every filament supplier under the sun who shipped wet filament. The biggest culprit??? Bambu Labs of course.
While we’re beating this dead horse—where’s that meme when I need it—be sure to weigh the filament and record the spool’s weight before drying. Without this, you won’t know if moisture is a factor or if the filament is fully dry during the process. Drying could take 1 to 12 hours, and the only way to confirm it’s dry is when the weight stops decreasing. If the spool was already dry from the factory, this helps rule out moisture and focus on other printing issues.
Fantastic info. Despite searching I had yet to see this fun fact so thankyou, bad assumption on my part. I do have a filament dryer and the weighing is a great tip, will give it a dry once weighed and see if that helps.
