I have an X1-Carbon and when I print larger pieces that cover the majority of the bed. I
'm new to 3d printing and have had pretty good luck so far except when I’m doing larger prints? I’ve tried cleaning the bed, glue stick, hairspray, pei plate, hotter bed temps, but it always warps. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Any specific material?
Large parts have a tendency to warp more than others. This is influenced by several factors including the material.
What material are you using? What bed? Are you using adhesive ?
Some materials tend to wrap more than others, and some designs tend to wrap more than others (large flat surfaces or boxy designs for example want to wrap more). Couple of things to try:
- Best materials to wrap less PLA/PETG wrap less than ABS, NYLON, ETC.
- Check the properties of your filament to check you are using the right temperature of bed.
- You can add a brim to it to help increase adhesion.
- Reduce the infill % or the infill type. When the part is solid or with lots of infill the cooling of the layers shrink the material causing it to contract and thus wrap.
Now looking at your print. I can see you have some layering issues too, this could be because of the warping it self that once it moves the nozzle simply contacts it irregularly and causes it to damage the part, or it could be temperature/flow related.
Had the same issue recently with a 4”x4” square PLA part lifting off the corners. I have added brims ,but I try to make parts with as little post processing and opted to try something else. I have used the included Bambu glue stick ,but for the next print I decided to just clean the build plate, increase bed temp to 45C for the cool plate, and no glue. Stuck great and after letting the part cool, I removed and flexed the plate gently and part popped off easily. I know Bambu recommends the glue stick so try at your own risk. I’ve never had to use glue before until the X1 and I figured they included a couple extra cool plate stickers in case I screw it up too badly.
1 Like
The same struggle here, I just noticed the slight warping issue at the 90-degree corners of my print, it’s very annoying. Things went better when adjusted bed temperature from default 35 to 40 (I try to not adjust too much from the “Bambu lab fine-tuned profile settings” for their dedicated PLA), “no cooling for the first” 5 layers and aux fan off during the PLA printing but still, the corner always lifted up a bit.
I don’t like adding brim/raft either as the printer should be capable of printing things properly without these processings and still producing non-warping prints.
I always follow the recommendation and apply glue stick to the plate, I think I will try not to for my next print.
There are sometimes constrains coming from physics you really can’t fully avoid 
I personally don’t like supports, but sometimes it is unavoidable.
If you design the pieces by yourself you can add smaller ‘fake’ brims on critical corner edges. Or by using the slicer build in cylinders position on those parts (only with a height of 0.2 or max 0.4mm) that have an higher tendencies to warp. In that way you add additional forces to adhese to the bed without going the full brim-route
1 Like
I think some of you guys got some unrealistic expectations.
Came here to post this, but you beat me to it. Mouse ears help big time and reduce post processing.
2 Likes
Quite new to 3d printing, thanks for clarifying this. Maybe I didn’t elaborate it enough, I was aware of that all type of filament shrink, and printing large parts tends to warp a lot. But I was printing small parts with PLA which doesn’t warp easily compared to other type of filament and thought it should stick to the bed sufficiently without any supports. Also since I’ve found that the Bambu slicer automatically calculates and adds brim to the objects that will warp, it didn’t add any brims to my prints, I certainly expect this object wouldn’t warp without supports.
Adding fake brims seems like an excellent way to fix this will definitely try it out.
You are right, smaller parts should stick more easily to the bed. But again, there is a little caveat to it. If the forces from the horizontal layers are higher than the forces to stick to the bed it can warp as well.
This happens if there is only a very part touching the bed but goes up massively (e.g. V-Shapes).
Another part you could consider - if you have an X1C/C or an P1P with Aux-Fan… don’t move the printed parts to near to it or try if you can print with it while reducing the speed of the Aux fan or turn it off complete. Because even the idea is good, it brings additional stress to the material.
I saw this with the plate full of objects - after some tests I print now without the Aux with acceptable quality for my PLA parts.
1 Like
In my case, I have an X1C with AUX-Fan. I’ve turned the Aux Fan off since I noticed prints warping. Not sure why bambu lab presets the aux fan speed for PLA at 70%. With the AUX fan on, prints seem to have a higher risk to warp. But does turning off the AUX FAN mean you need to sacrifice a bit of printing speed?
1 Like
Because the hot end heatsink and fan isn’t good enough and the (bad) idea is that when printing PLA with higher bed temperatures the aux fan cools the head to help stop PLA deforming and jamming in the heatbreak.
I’m admittedly an angry OG, but I just got my X1-C (no AMS) yesterday, and I’m ecstatic! When I had an issue with warping on a surface already coated with the included glue, I took the mag surface off, lightly sprayed it with AquaNet, then fully coated it with Elmer’s Craft Bond Extra-Strength Glue Stick. (I doubt that the AquaNet was even needed, but you know us OGs and our rituals. 
) Warping did not occur on the next print of the same parts and slicing, and prints were still easily removed. I’ve used this method for my FlashForge Creator Pro (usually on PEI) for years. The coating is easy to remove using IPA (it has to be, because removing and replacing the build surface for the FFCP can be time consuming), so you can make the surface just like new out of the box in a few minutes. It may not be an ideal solution, but if nothing else works, for me it provides a good backup plan.
2 Likes
This thread is couple weeks old, but I believe he warping fault was not resolved.
I print large area parts on a X1C with PETG and do not experienced part warping ….anymore.
When it did warp, it was at the build plate, I determined the fault to be the part cooling fan and the worst case was with the aux fan. All other prints minimizes the part fan and never use aux fan for PETG.
The part is PETG solid print (100% infill) on Tex plate.
Nozzle .4m at 150mm/s perimeter and 200mm/s infill.
Temp Noz 245/260 bed 70c
NO glue, aux fan 0%, part fan 0%, chamber fan 50%.
Door shut and top closed.
Chamber temp reaches 42c.
Print Time about 3.5 hours.
The only time the aux fan is activated is when the print is complete. It is manually 100% for bed cool down for part release (wish this was an option in slicer).
On other prints, part fan is used sparingly and typically only for overhangs and bridges.
Cheers
-Uman
2 Likes
I thought the cause of warping came from a gradient in temperature in the printer part. If the printer environment could provide a constant temperature to the printed part the stress would not be enough to warp the part. If I have this concept correctly then the cabinet needs to have a uniform temperature that is higher than the plate temperature. Which would minimize the stress, while keeping the printed part strength lower than the finished part. Which would suggest a higher plate temperature is easier to make things work (in that regard).
I would reduce chamber fan speed to increase chamber temp , 40 degrees can really help reducing warping
When I really need something to not warp I use a Carbon Fiber filled Filament as they really are unlikely to curl
Here is a knitting cylinder, it is hollow. Dimensions: 10 cm diameter, 8 cm height, only a 4 mm plate contact width. With Bambu Lab PLA, plate temp increased to 48C, P1P sits inside an oversized enclosure.
how did you turn the Aux fan off during prints? I’ve gone into the menu on the printer and shut it off but it turns back on during a print. I’m guessing because it’s written into the gcode. I would just disconnect it, but I would like to use it after printing is complete to cool off the part.
you need to change it in the filament preset, then assign that preset to the AMS slots.
and then remember to do that every time you slice a print, which is what I stuff up regularly.