Does anyone have any input for this issue?
when printing and setting a pause in the slicer, the print will go perfectly fine.
once the pause has been completed and i have added the part to the model, the first layer after resuming doesnt stick to the one below.
this is the same on pretty much every model. is there a way to perhaps slow down the first layer after resuming or something?
I find that you have to be ready and fast to act after pause, so that you minimize the layer cooling during the pause, slowing down the next layer can help to some extent, but the temperature is the key factor
You didn’t state what temperature and filament you are running? Is it PLA, PETG, etc… Is the nozzle temp running at the low end of the manufactures spec? Have you done a temp tower? Why are you pausing? Is it to swap filaments or something else? Details matter… 
Pla. Nozzle 230. Pausing to add a part. temp tower is irrelevant because the issue is after a pause resume and there are no layer seperation issues on continuous prints of any type…
I’ll run a test and be ready for a quick resume when the pause happens. This is something I’d considered as the printer is out in the garage and it is significantly colder at the minute than usual and the overall chamber temperature is much lower as a result.
Ah ha! You see, that is a common misconception. A temp tower provides visual confirmation of whether the filament and the recommended settings agree. In my experience, they often don’t. Here’s an example from yesterday:
I opened a spool of Anycubic PLA I got for $12 during an Amazon promotion to test its performance. The spool had just come out of the dryer. Its weight dropped from 1132g before drying to 1126g after drying, but I suspect most of that loss was due to the cardboard spool.
I performed extensive calibration with this spool. Here’s what the temp tower looked like. When evaluating the temp tower, I always start by inspecting the sides without temperature markings to remain unbiased. I then note how many markings align with the best results. Sometimes, it becomes a trade-off, as it did in this case.
Three edges showed the best results:
Next, I flip it over and inspect the remaining edges.
Only one leading edge was worth noting:
The best result was, arguably, at 215°C—well outside the range stated on the box.
You still haven’t specified which type of PLA you’re using. I’ve personally experienced numerous issues with both silk and matte filaments, especially regarding layer adhesion after pauses. While this might not apply to your situation, my workaround has been to temporarily increase the nozzle temperature by 5–10°C after pausing, then lower it back down after the layer change.
Additionally, if you have a chamber fan running, you might want to disable it momentarily. As @h3li0 suggested, speed could also be a factor. Switching to quiet mode for one layer might help as well.
Let us know if you find a remedy so the community can benefit and good luck. 
I have ran temp towers initially and found 230 to be the best temperature for the speed both visually and structurally.
Appreciate such a detailed reply though, I’ll have a look through it properly when I’m back hkme.
Hot plastic sticks to hot plastic better than it sticks to cold plastic. I think you just have to be quicker. Especially if your printer isn’t enclosed.
Also, the print is going to shrink a little as it cools, so the next layer may not be as well aligned with the previous layer as it would be if there’d been no pause to allow for the greater shrinkage. So if your print is thin-walled, the misalignment might significantly weaken the joint letting it delaminate more easily.
Did you manage to find a fix to this?
it is a p1s so is enclosed.
im assuming it is a temperature issue but even resuming the pause straight after it stops, the issue still persists.
not yet. i can only assume it is due the the overall temperature being much lower at the minute.
ive tried fitting the part and resuming within 5-10 seconds of the print pausing and still the issue remains.
if i have 4 of the models on the plate, sometimes it will happen on 3 of them, sometimes only on 1.
there seems to be no pattern to it.
I’m new to 3D printing. I have a P1S. Could you give me a reference/explanation to "temp tower " so I can better understand this post?
temperature tower is a calibration used to find the best temperature for a filament.
by overall visual quality, bridging and layer adhesion etc.
tbh you dont really need to worry about them too much now as most default profiles are pretty excellent.
