Making my own post about the issue Ive been trying to sort out here-
My new X1C has started failing prints in ASA (Ive seen similar fails in ABS- been focusing on troubleshooting with ASA)
The prints start perfect- It seems the Z height allows the nozzle to drag on the print, and after an amount of layers, its enough dragging for the motors to lose steps and fail/crash the print.
With the particular test part (small stake, 6in long ) Ive been running, I can print 1 or 2 fine. 3 on the build plate is about max without constant fails. 4, always fails.
I can hear the nozzle squeaking on the print after a few layers. I’ve tried numerous settings, most notably, Ive changed the filament diameter from 1.75 both directions in tests. Smaller diameter settings cause very instant problems in the first few layers. Larger (As much as 2.40mm), seem to print with less dragging, but the parts are under extruded and trash.
I don’t seem to have any issues in PLA or PETG. I’m running another test print in PETG just to confirm- but I can’t understand whats going on here.
ANY thoughts are appreciated.
Update–
Editing the generic PETG profile to run ASA- Changing only nozzle temp (275) and bed temp (90) prints ASA perfectly!??
Nothing I can change gets the ASA profile to print ASA without fail.
Running the PETG profile with the needed temp changes to print ASA works great.
I am having the same issues. Will try a modified PETG profile. Thanks!
Just bumping post, been on vacation for a week.
If anyone has any updates to this issue that numerous people have, please let me know.
Ive been desperate for a solution to a very similar problem. I cannot print any filament that requires an enclosed chamber without getting layer skips and eventual print failure after some horrible noises. The problem only happens if the door is closed and the chamber temperature exceeds 43c.
I strongly believe this problem is related to heat, despite the X1C supposedly being rated for 60c. However, changing the MC board fan to a larger one that directly cools the heatsink did not solve the issue either. If anyone finds a solution please post it!
I had a problem where I could print a single ASA model just fine, but if I printed more than 1, the probability of one getting knocked over (they were tall/thin prints) approached 100% with increasing count.
The problem was that I was over-extruding just a little bit. This would leave an occasional blob on the top of the print. If I was only printing one at a time, the layer time was short enough the blob was still soft when the print head hit it on the next layer. If I was printing more than 1, the layer time increased enough that the blob hardened before the printhead could get back to it, so when the printhead next came around it would either make a banging noise and knock it over, or just knock it over.
The solution was to hand-tune flow rate and PA. I went through the manual tuning process but still had a problem. Ended up looking for any evidence of over-extrusion on the first layer, and if seen, I aborted the print and took a few percent off of the flow rate parameter. After a couple of iterations, the first layer looked great and I let it do the who job and it finished successfully.
If the print is large enough, it’s not going to get knocked over or moved and the printhead, build plate and stepper drive system will have to absorb the impact shock. I could easily see this leading to a step loss or even bent nozzle problem.
You can see the booger on the top left of this failure.
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Intresting, I havent noticed any relation to heat, atleast yet.
Maybe the next time I feel like beating myself up testing/crashing, I’ll see if I can find any relation to heat.
Thats a good catch, however I don’t believe the issue I see is the same.
Mine really seems like a z height issue that accumulates until the nozzle drags enough to crash the XY.
I’ve tried drastic amounts of under-and over extruding. Over extruding does seem to make the crashes occur faster, but under extruding doesnt resolve it.
every thread about this issue seems to be people printing ABS/ASA/PC or any of the higher temp filaments that required a closed chamber. The same thing is happening to me. Next time you give it a try, check what your chamber temp was at when the print failed
I’ve hopped on the boat with you NeverGM, I firmly believe its a temp related, mechanical binding issue.
Further, I believe its a binding issue in the plastic head unit clamshell and carbon rod bushings. I took mine apart this evening and had a look, its very possible any minor changes could load these rods/bushings
enough to skip the steppers.
It could be as simple as at assembly, the plastic was not torqued down evenly onto the bushings?
I re-assembled my head unit, and added a .004" shim between the clamshells just to see. I pre-heated the chamber to 40C before starting the same benchy print I did before- and it printed very well- ending at 45C.
I’m printing another starting at 45C, will post results. I think this might be it finally!
To anyone with this issue, it might be as easy as disassembling the head unit, and reassembling. I’m not certain the shims I added really do anything. I just had the thought to leave the screws a tad loose, and instead of that, decided to use shims instead and fully tighten the screws.
Try it and report back!
Outstanding! How did the 45c+ one turn out? I want to be absolutely sure this is the fix before I start disassembling my head unit, but this sounds promising. What did you end up using use as a shim? And do you have a wiki link for the head unit disassembly?
The 45C starting temp one ran flawless as well. The end temp was still 45C.
I had some SS shim stock in my toolbox. I only used it as a “just incase”, I wanted to make sure I made a difference instead of just removing/reassembly. I’m doubtful its actually helping, but again, not certain. I’m curious/ and think just removal/assembly will do the same.
I don’t have any prepared info for the removal/assembly, but, its not too difficult. There are 8 screws on the sides of the head unit cover that get removed with the provided 1.5mm wrench, The plastic covers can be removed, then on the back side of the head, the circuit board needs to be removed to allow access to some of the screws that clamp the 2 halves of the clamshell together. Removing the 2 ribbon cables is probably the “trickiest” part. Unscrew the metal covers for the cables, and wiggle gently/ pick the cable ends off of the board. If you’ve ever taken apart an Iphone you will be familar with the connectors. As long as you dont wrestle and try to move the board out of the way of the clamshell screws with the board ribbon cables attached, you should be fine. The ribbons are delicate- not as tiny as Iphone cables- but, I damaged an iphone ribbon once, so, I take heed 
I did also pick away the adhesive for the connector on the from of the head unit cover- so I could remove it completely. Both ends of that cable are “foam/glued” to prevent dislodging accidentally. I didn’t want the cover hanging by the cable, possible pulling on the small ribbon cables which I was figidting with it.
Also, I didn’t fully separate/remove the clamshell. With the screws removed, I could open the top side enough to push out the bushing. After feeling how smooth and free it was, I re-assembled with attention to re-tightening the clamshell+ adding the small shims.
If you need more info to be confident in the removal, I can re-do it and take pics for you.
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Yes, if its not too much trouble for you, could you please create a step by step guide with pictures / and or video so all of us having this issue can refer to this post for the solution?
