Wow, that’s some good “thinking outside the box”! I wouldn’t have thought of that, good one! (Takes notes to add this to my arsenal … 
) We all learn from each other here.
Let us know how it goes! EDIT: and such a cool print should be shown off -
https://forum.bambulab.com/t/successful-prints/
EDIT 2 - I went and looked at this model. I’m going to change my suggestions here. You might indeed print this at .3 layer. IDT this model will show the layer differences that require you respect the “magic numbers”. The Author says this about the matter:
Since the size of the parts must match the height and width of the layer, changing the scale when printing can lead to an unpredictable result (but you can increase the Z height by a multiple of the layer height, in increments of 0.3 mm per layer, for example, select 0.6). I advise you to print 0.3 layer height and 0.4 layer width, with 100% airflow. The height of the first layer must be adjusted like all the others, otherwise the distribution of layers may get lost.
My print speed was 60 mm/s.
So don’t do that clever thing of scaling.
I’d go with his settings. When I checked what printer he used it didn’t say, but his profile shows Prusa and Creality printers and they have the same default stepper types and threaded rods BL used in the X1C and P1P.
One other thing - If you’d like an interesting read on this “magic number” stuff here’s an article I had bookmarked that explains it fairly well:
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A big double thumbs up to this. Also, if you haven’t done the MANUAL bed tramming (‘level’) yet, do it. Technically it’s tramming, being level has nothing to do with it. A well tuned 3D printer can be mounted on the wall and work perfectly. 