solvol have a twin spool dryer, currently about £40 on Amazon, £32 on aliexpress. A 6 spool non heated ‘prusa type’ case is £68 on Aliexpress, if you don’t want an ams. I have an ebios? dryer, which I don’t like - It melts the glue on card board spools.
As a noob to this forum and to the A1 Mini and P1S, I would never try to talk anyone out of the AMS if they want or need it. I hear a lot about filament problems due to moisture. In my 5 - 8 years (not sure just how long), I’ve never had a problem with it. That may be because I keep a good size dehumidifier in my print room, but it only ever gets the room down to the mid forties, higher than people say you should shoot for. As to the P1 for your next purchase, I’ve only had mine four days and I love it, but, I’m not sure I wouldn’t opt for the A1 (the full sized one) instead. It’s just so much more modern. I have its little brother, the Mini, and it’s much nicer than the P1 if only because of the circa 2024 LCD. But you’ll be happy with either. Just be sure you understand what I’m talking about on the P1 LCD. When I ordered mine, I didn’t know about it.
Oh, I should’ve mentioned this: The P1S would win over the non-enclosed A1 if you plan on using filaments that require or would benefit from an enclosure (ABS, ASA, etc).
“Am I missing something…”
I’m not sure because I don’t know what engendering means.
You may have something there, but who’s got a hundred squids?
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I’m guessing a typo for engineering.
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Or if you want your printer to be sort of immune from its surroundings. I don’t have a print room but a workshop. It is placed far enough from my mill, my lathe, my powered saw, my grinder or anything that generate dust or shavings but it’s always sort of dusty on the outside (but perfect on the inside :)). I use it a lot for prototyping so that’s where it belongs. I had open printers before but made sure I protected them when not in use (and the best I could when doing something else while they printed). An enclosed printer was a requirement when I replace my last printer and I must say I tend to be a little less careful with my P1S now…
One other important use for the AMS that I forgot to mention.
Using PETG as a support surface for PLA models and vice versa.
With the AMS, you can let the AMS do the work for you.
Oh! Now that’s a powerful reason! Sometimes there’s just no way around supports. Maybe there will be an AMS in my future after all.
Yup, it was a typo, or my phone autocorrected it. I meant engineering, as in tougher materials with properties needed for some functional prints I’m planning. I have have some projects where I’m hoping to replace the need for aluminum CNC-ed parts with stronger and more resistant prints.
Anything I’ve tried so far with PLA and PETG on my ender 3 didn’t last long enough (if it worked at all)
Also from what I’ve seen, carbon fiber infused PLA seems to produce some of the best looking prints I’ve seen on bambu printers haha
I think it’s something to do with the extra fibers helping with blending layer lines and cooling. Some prints I’ve seen online seem to have nearly injection molding level of surface quality…
Btw, I did some more research on this, and it turns out that the X1C has a feature where you use the heated chamber of the printer itself to dry out the filament (when not printing ofc). Then you put it in the AMS we with desiccant to keep it dry. Effectively removing the need for a dedicated dryer, as long as you’re not printing 24/7 and don’t mind not having a printer during the drying process.
Now apparently the P1S doesn’t have that feature, however afaik neither of them have a “true heated chamber”, since they only use the radiant heat from the bed to heat up the enclosure as well. Meaning that while P1S doesn’t have a dedicated dryer feature in the menu, I guess it would be possible to just set the bed to some temperature and leave it on without printing?
I think for my use cases A1 is not really what I’m looking for, too similar to my ender 3 haha
I definitely need the enclosure and I care about speed, since I don’t have a dedicated workshop and rarely print anything that takes longer than 12-15 hours
From what I’ve seen online, it seems like the P1/X1 form factor (core XY, as opposed to a bed slinger, like the ender 3 or bambu A1), would give me better results at faster speeds.
Also, I don’t really mind the lack of the LCD, since it seems like the portable screen addon that can be bought for it, is nearly as good as the one of the X1C and it’s still way cheaper.
I know the x series has the heated chamber, we were talking specifically about the P1S and the AMS as an option for the P1S, even more specifically, I was explaining the AMS doesn’t have a heated chamber.
The P1S bed temp doesn’t go high enough to act like a heat chamber, if it did, BL would use it as a selling feature.
Specifically only the X1E has an actively heated changer (limited to 60c). The X1C and the P1S do not but the bed can heat the chamber too +50 degrees which helps a lot when printing ABS and ASA.
The P1S can do this as well.
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and the a1, in fact any printer with indpendent temp control on the bed. I’ve seen it on the internet, so it must be true.
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A more power-efficient way would be to have a much smaller volume requiring heat.
The open-air nature of the A1/A1 mini means this is extremely wasteful.
I get it’s possible, but it makes financial sense to buy a dedicated unit.
They cut ther side out of the box that the filament came in, and placed it over the spool.
I get the idea, but, I refer you to my earlier point.
Plus, it’s faster in a dedicated unit.
For those that want to and can afford to, but if you’re cash stapped, and have damp filament and an a1 or mini, it’s not the end of the world. For some, it’s merely a hobby, others it is more than that. Whatever you do, don’t dry it in your toaster oven.
The AMS has definitely been a game-changer for me. I run 3 printers with AMS’s & I print engineering components in black PETG 90% of the time, so usually have all AMS slots filled with black PETG - so spools automatically change over & resume printing within a couple of minutes. The AMS is very well sealed, so once I printed & added the AMS Silica Gel Holders - AMS Silica Gel Holder by Ook Laboo - MakerWorld - I’ve been keeping humidity level down around 10%. Once it gets much over 15%, which is usually about 2-3 weeks, I just change out the silica gel.
I only use 1x digital hygrometer per AMS, rather than the photo from Ook Laboo which has 1 in each holder.
Anyone who prints much PETG will know how badly humidity affects filament/prints.
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quote=“debonr, post:41, topic:73929”]
I have an ebios? dryer, which I don’t like - It melts the glue on card board spools.
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Well, I’ve just bought the Solvol oh1 from Amazon. A far better dryer imnsho. I may fit a closable vent in the lid, since the recommendation is to leave the cover slightly open, to allow the moisture to escape, but as hot air rises, I think it would be better if vented at the top. There are seals on the filament holes, even on the cable connector, so unpowered I think it would be a pretty good dry box. The display and settings are very clear. I’ve also bought a length of Capricorn tube, to go between box and the connector ate the back of the p1s. My printer, work lamp and filament dryer are plugged into wireless sockets, and I can turn them on/off remotely. The eibos unit had the advantage that on power up, it would start drying, this Solvol, you have to poke the screen. Not sure I can be assed to alter that.