I don’t have an exact number but there are certain variables in play. I’m sure if you printing lower temp filaments like PLA it will last longer than ones that require a higher temp.
Also make sure you clean the PEI sheet on a regular basis with a de greasing liquid detergent and HOT water, don’t make the mistake of using a soap with lotion in it. It took me forever to get that stuff off…
I also use a soft dish brush to scrub the plate since it is a texture you need to get down in there with hot water and bristles.
I have noticed that the rear of the plate where the print head cleans itself seems to wear out the coating, I’m curious if that makes a difference in how clean the nozzle gets.
I’ve had my machine since Feb. I still have the original sheet, I have purchased 2 spares so I don’t have to keep the printer down while I clean the sheet. I will admit the original is showing some signs of use but is still works fine.
Oh and here is something I’ve found over the years using these sheets on all my printers. Don’t rush to get a print off the sheet. Let it naturally cool and the print simply comes off. Bending the sheet to get a print to break loose is not good for the surface nor the plate. I think if the plate is really hot it actually leaves some of the surface material on the print. Overtime this will cause the sheet to fail too
Seeya
M1
There are various ways to revive #1 to maybe get some extra life out of it. #2 is usually grounds for retirement, unless you don’t mind the marks transferring to your print.
See the “Wipe zone on the Build Plate” section of this wiki article. It is expected behavior and probably the number one asked question on Reddit by new Bambu users.
They do, I have 3 plates now and if I’m doing a ton of printing I take the 1st plate off and allow it to cool, while that’s cooling I put another plate on the machine and I’m up and running again. Allowing the first plate to cool all the way helps the prints to just fall off with little or no force which helps save the surface material.
Seeya
M1
Cant say for certain their lifetime as ive never had to replace one. My K1 max has close to 3k hours on it with 0 replacement parts. My A1 is nearing 1500 hours also all original parts. Only time I’ve seen one be replaced is from a nozzle getting dug into the bed.
I had this pop up on mine when I accidentally dropped some silicone oil on the plate when I was performing the routine maintenance. Even after using denatured alcohol and ect, prints would still slide off that side. New plates are 10$ on amazon though, or just flip it.
I just bought mine a few days back. I printed an unsupported Brave Sun base (thinking that it didn’t need to be supported and it didn’t want to come off initially. When ìt did, some of the texturing on the plate stick to the bottom of the base, leaving a smooth shiny scar on the plate.
Has this happened to anyone else? Should i avoid unsupported files?
@D2Bambu
Certain filaments, such as PETG, are known to often bond too tightly to PEI, which could result in what you describe, especially if you do not allow it to cool off before attempting the print removal. In such cases you need a bond breaker of some kind (such as Bambulab liquid glue, among a giant host of options). A heated bed which is too hot can also contribute to this happening. Generally speaking PLA doesn’t share this particular problem.
Is it PETG that did it, or something else?
It’s a rite of passage. It happens to everyone, or if not already, then someday it will. I’ve seen it happen even to highly experienced youtubers, who just plain forget in the moment. But generally they get free replacement parts, so it’s not like they care.
It was generic PLA from Microcenter. It was a base to a starship miniature that i printed unsupported - even after 3-4 hours after the print, i couldn’t get it to budge even using the printed scraper. I flexed the plate and it popped off - along with a portion of the coating - a no-no it seems.
Have you been using any solvents to clean your plate? Textured PEI and IPA or acetone do not always play nice - lots of debate on the topic though. There is a risk of the surface softening or weakening the adhesion to the spring steel. I always suggest only washing textured PEI with Dawn dish soap (or similar) and hot water. Flex and pop is the way to go once it has cooled. If you need a scraper for thin pieces, print a plastic one rather than the razor blade scraper.
While my textured plate is not my main one, it sees a decent amount use. It is the original black Bambu version that has been discontinued and still looks brand new.
Speaking only for myself, the best method I’ve found for getting stubborn stuck plastic off a build plate is to submerge the whole thing (build plate and all) in a bucket of water. Generally in a day or two the stuck plastic will just slide off with no resistance. In contrast, using sharp tools has led many people to severe injury, so anything but that unless you’re using the appropriate PPE. Unfortunately, there probably isn’t a single one-size-fits-all solution that covers every scenario.