I’ve tried making 3 light boxes so far and 2 out of the 3 broke from the slightest bit of mishandling. The face seems to be separating where the different colors meet. The slightest bit of pressure and the thing breaks.
On the last box I made sure to handle it with care. While looking at it with a backlight I can see gaps in some places where the colors meet. It’s almost like it’s not printing the colors close enough to each other to promote proper fusion.
I’ve tried Arachne and classic wall generators. Anyone have any other tips to make these things a little stronger?
On the strength settings set the overlap to a higher percentage. On my h2d I do some as much as 45% while on my carbons and A1’s I can do less. Colors do matter for adhesion especially black and white together. For your first layer do .16 with a flow ratio on first layer as high as 1.04.
I made several lightboxes, to get a consistent color with no gaps I usually do “only one wall on the first layer”, 2 walls on the following layers and do 2 white layers on the backside, 20% infill/wall overlap and initial layer flow 1.02-1.03 (depends on the filament) to get a nice surface (face down on a structured print plate).
And in my opinion it is important to have the filament calibrated.
Is there an easy way to do the 2 top white layers? I also do it with white top layers: by adding a primitive, merge it, put on top of the surface and set it to print in white… Is this the easiest way?
OK, thanks… New to Bambu, just found how to export as .stl to be able to open it in Fusion. Now finding a way to do the other things you said… novice in Fusion also.
trying this now. so far default settings are not good, the front lid is breaking apart.
best is to add a diffusion layer of 0.4mm
tried flow 1.03 it was too much, had some graining. now trying it at 1 and adjusted the overlap to 45% let’s see.
ALWAYS add the diffuser. It provides a single layer (I usually choose white, but have used fluorescent) which basically holds everything together and makes things much more robust.
Everything else I use is default.
I design, make and sell lightboxes and since using the diffuser layer I have never had a box returned for being damaged.
so you are using default settings? with default the from layer details are getting torn apart.
what thinness of the diffusion layer are you using?
and thiknness of the front layer?
I had the same problems with fragile/separating face seams between colors. Also with some colors printing too lightly, causing peel-up or clogging. The default export settings for the P1S are dogshi* so I’ve had to go find my own set of settings and saved those as my “Lightbox” default. Since that change, all issues have stopped. I just wish I knew if there was quick way for me to upload a copy of all those settings here or somewhere where I don’t have to hunt through all the changes I made.
Adding a diffuser layer or two keeps that from happening. It’s just solid layers of white printed over the back of the design. And it does help make the illumination more uniform.
You can also change the diffusion color to get additional colors! Found that out the hard way by not having white as one of my 4 color options so it printed as the lightest color I had in (yellow) So now on my Blueridge Mountains lightbox, the blue river turns green when I turn the light on.
I tried exporting the settings but it won’t let me upload the zip here. It’s for a P1S running the basic .4 nozzle, and no I can’t remember any specific youtube videos, I watched sooo many. I had a handful of problems all at the same time so I was ripping and tearing trying to figure out why it was failing and printing poorly. I took apart my hotend around 5 times and cleaned it out completly because I thought it wasn’t grabbing the filament, I almost bought the hardened steel gear upgrade, just issue after issue. Then I tried some settings from 2 or 3 different videos (and I learned how to REALLY clean the printbed) and it just worked like it was supposed to. Reach out again and I’ll try to get you those settings
I have an A1. My settings will probably be different. I’ll have to suffer through them as you did. My print plate is textured and easy to clean. I have to use Dawn dishwashing liquid because alcohol kept screwing up my prints. The print bed adhesion really makes a difference. Did you use an opaque white or transparent filament? I have a lot of hunters that would really like a lightbox if I can make them affordable.
There’s some other cool things you can do too but it moves the creation process into other tools. You can add extra “colors” with thickness too like lithophanes. And with UV-reactive filaments. Only thing in UV stuff it may make it where you can’t use a diffuser. We need a UV-transparent filament for that but don’t know if there is such a thing.
You can do some cool effects too with clear filament. I want to revisit things like this too. Light enables some cool effects.
It should be there. It used to be there - along with the option to add a reflector layer to the inside of the back so you don’t need to use reflective tape or glue in tinfoil.
If not there it’s likely a bug but IIRC it wasn’t obvious anyway.
