Lighting Mod that Connects to Board

I’ve had an X1C since August, but this is my first post here. If it’s a topic that’s been covered, I apologize. I tried to search, but didn’t find anything. And I just went through the insanely obnoxious welcome thing and forum tutorial with discobot just to post this. So I deserve a little forgiveness and Xanax.

Everyone agrees the built in lighting on the X1C sucks. Every post I’ve ever seen with mods and upgrades adds in lighting as a 2nd external source. So you’ve got your LED strips. LED bars. Putting them directly in the machine. Putting them in a riser or bracket. Literally just sitting a better light on the top glass. But they’re all plugged in and controlled independently. Could there be any option to plug in directly to the Bambu board and control them? I’m not sure if the X1C has any spare jacks that could be used for this. At the very least, could you get a better lighting set with the same connector, unplug the existing light, and then mod/mount the upgrade there? The Bambu wiki has the process to replace the factory light if it fails. Couldn’t the same process be done with better lighting that it would still power and control?

I don’t have the best electrical engineering background so if this is a silly concept sorry. Has anybody attempted this or know if it’s possible?

Just be aware that adding light can cause issues during lidar calibration and first layer checking.

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That’s the beauty of these 2 controllers, as soon as Lidar is used, the LEDs go out.

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I’ve read a lot of people say that after they upgrade theirs there’s no difference, but I know that’s anecdotal and really have no idea. If it was an upgraded light that connected to the control board as a replacement, wouldn’t it function the same with on/off as the original like @Avgils said?

The stock light doesn’t turn off during calibration and can’t be controlled via g-code.

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The standard lighting is so dim that the Lidar is not bothered by it. However, you don’t see much, especially with the door closed.

ON YOUR OWN RISK!

you can use the ams port:

Pin_AMS

further information about the cable/port:
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/troubleshooting/ams-power-failure

Careful with strip LEDs. They can pull quite a bit of power.

AFAIK the chamber light is not (yet?) controllable via G-Code. That’s the beauty of solutions like BLLED. They use MQTT to determine the state of the light.

However, when you want to tinker, you can control the light via MQTT youself as I stated here

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Just bought the same x1c led bar again, a friend made a y split cable and so i lookes like the led bars from the x1e. Goes on and Off Like the normal lamp and doesnt influence the lidar.

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That is a great idea. Wish I knew how to make the cable mod you’re talking about.

If i remind, i can make tomorrow a picture of the cable, its a y Split cable 2 from the connector you See in Shopping Page. 2 Male to 1 female If i femind right, Just need to Cut 2/3 Clips, but still hold on its own

Interesting. Thank you. I’m going to have to run this by some people I work with who are more knowledgeable. If I can figure it out, I’d like to do the same. How’d you mount the 2nd one? Did you design a bracket yourself or use something pre-made?

Theres Like 1 hole in the frame there whats suiting the slidelock in the Led bar, Just need to Cut thrnother 2 away from the Led bar. Holds fine.

You need to Cut following plastic pieces away (better Check one time before, Just Out of my mind), (Just dont the cable itself obv) :sweat_smile: then it will Slide and Lock in the frame by its own.

From the Cam with 1 more bar

Ordered another light bar and going to give it a try. Thanks!

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Do you happen to know what size those JST connectors are? I’d prefer not to cut the stock wires if I can help it.

Thanks,
pete

I use one of these, it plugs into the stock 2 pin connector that the useless OEM LED is usually plugged in to, its nice and bright.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqyT8Ai

The plug confuses me.

Bambu rates it at 300ma
Bambu rates the USB port at 1.5A

I ran that exact light on each plug to test.

The USB got really warm, the pcb as well.
When using the tiny plug it didn’t, everything stayed cool.