First 3d printer and I have no clue what I’m doing, it shows in pla bambu basic just not as easily seen in photo if anyone knows how to fix it lmk thanks!
Mostly changes in printing speed are shown as lines on the out walls. You should have a look at the Preview of the sliced model. In the overlay window you can switch from “Line type” view to " Speed". Compare this to your print output. Maybe you see an change of speed at the position of the lines. Then you can reduce the speed or insert more walls. Even lowering the temperatures can help to get rid of the lines.
I see I manage to get the layers to print at all the same speed but it is very slow, is there a way to get it to all print at a decent speed at the same speed per layer? Sorry I’m a bit new to this
It looks like it thinks the outer walls and inner walls and gap infill are part of the top surface is there a way to specificly select these lines and make it the same speed as the rest of the outer walls etc
Did you ever resolve this?
Any updates? I have the same issue.
Reduce “outer Wall” speed generally to 50 MMS. This May Help.
There seems to be quite a few topics with the same issues lately…
Let’s sum up the actual causes for the issue:
- speed
- flow rate
- gap and other infill changes
- changing from a full layer to just walls
For all those issues there is a fix.
But it is very easy to use such a fix only to mess up other things.
The first thing one should do is to ignore…
As in ignoring that settings for a filament are the best ones.
I ALWAYS do a full calibration of new rolls, colors and such and only too often the defaults are no good.
The actual and sole cause of these imperfections to appear is that the filament changes its properties.
A speed or flow change always means the filament comes out differently.
Softer, harder, more or less squishy…
You can set all outer wall speeds to something slow enough to improve the surface…
You can add more walls or use a thinner extrusion width.
But you can’t change how the speed and flow change affects things in the melting chamber!
Some slicers offer a flow rate compensation the user can adjust.
Without this feature it is hard to fully eliminate those unwanted changes of the outer wall.
In the old days before high speed printing became a thing we had to to use the lowest possible speed as the baseline and could only increase the infill speeds and such to still keep a good outer surface.
Today though the flow rate is adjusted to the print speed and not the other way around.
With that it is no problem to get rather insane print speeds - but ONLY for models that won’t require the machine to slow down!
Nothing can change what physics demand, not even the best slicer out there.
Here is some things you might want to try after a full calibration of the filament:
- Outer walls first - can work great on any model free from overhangs.
Reduce the overlap - use a simple testcube and 5 or 6 wall loops. - You want a result that still has a proper loop bond but no over-extrusion signs, especially not in the corners.
- Try different extrusion widths for the inner and outer wall loops.
The default nozzle of 0.4 uses 0.42 and 0.45mm.
You have to squeeze it a bit flat in order to get a proper layer bond.
Print a testcube with just the walls to measure if the resulting wall matches the sum of the wall loops !
Means to not create a model with a 2mm wall, use a solid one and use no infill
Adjust the overlap to get as close to the real deal as possible without loosing integrety. - If all else fails try to reduce the max flow rate…
Usually around 20 for most standard filaments.
Going to, let’s say 15 or 16 will reduce the max print speed.
But it will also reduce the flow rate change for areas where the print speed has to slow down. - Last resort and only for simple shapes with no bad overhands, support or lots of fine details…
Disable all slowing down options.
These are in place to get the best results by slowing the machine down where it has to.
Use a small model and leave all other settings at the default.
Reduce the print speeds until those walls come out clean - note this value somewhere.
Adjust your print settings so ALL wall loops use this probably quite low speed.
Then ramp the speeds for infill and such up but not past the point of loosing adhesion or getting bad looking lines.
Now print the model again but increase the speeds for the inner wall loop until those banding effects appear again.
Reduce this speed by around 20%.
Do the same for the infill loops but reduce the value by 25 to 30%.
The outer loop speed can then still adjusted up a little but usually not by more than 5 or 10%.
You also want to print the inner wall loops first for this as it gives the melting chamber more time to equalize without affecting the outer wall.
Appreciate the reply. I’ll mess around with these and report back when I figure out a solution.