Literal METAL Filament

Has anyone tried using literal metal filament in the X1C and AMS? I am curious,it is quite expensive, but still…

Good question. Are we in jeopardy of a link any time in the near future? I lost my mind reading glasses. :crazy_face:

it really was a very simple question. There is no “link” to be expected. I found a site that sells literal metal 1.75 mm filament, and was asking if anyone has tried to use it with BL and AMS.

Well… for such a simple question, it seems that it’s too hard to provide a simple link, isn’t it? :wink:

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what kind of LINK are you looking for? Answer the simple question… have you tried to print with literal metal filament?

Well, if you’re unwilling to make the small effort to engage the community by providing a simple web link, don’t be surprised if you don’t get many participants in your question.

He’s asking WHICH metallic filament.
This is the kind of links he’s looking for.

I found a site that sells literal metal 1.75 mm filament

Which site?

I did print bronze and copper fill from 3dJake ages ago on my late Tarantula. From that experience, I’d give a slow X1C print from the rear spool a good chance (dried filament and hardened nozzle), but I’d expect it to break in the tubing if printing from the AMS.

There may be a small chance from slots 2 and 3 if the tubing length has been minimized and straightened and it does not go through a splitter/hub (floating buffer, AMS on left of printer, raised and angled set-up minimizing curvature), but I’d be ready to take the AMS apart to remove splintered filament.

Edit: I really liked the copper fill as it could easily be weathered. Unfortunately, sanding/polishing did not work so well as that simply pulled the metal out of the print.

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Protopasta copper PLA broke in my AMS and I had to disassemble the whole thing in order to remove it. My understanding is that most metal PLAs can be a bit brittle so I wouldn’t chance it.

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What would be the most durable filament that I could print on a P1S?

@BambuBanker I think it really depends on application. BL has a chart with different filament properties. Choose the right filament - 3D Filaments Guide for Bambu Lab Printers

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Now that is just cool. The reason I say that is I designed the control system for a Titanium injection mold machine for a local tool and die machine shop. They built it for a guy who patented the organic binder (a type of wax) for <400 mesh Titanium beads. It requires being fired in a vacuum furnace and has a precise shrink rate after firing. This saves/ reduces hours of machining time. They could not use a ready to go plastic injection mold machines because the freshly injected part is too fragile. Last I heard it was still making tiny water vanes for Culligan water flow detection.

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@BambuBanker That really depends on the loading conditions, design details and even print settings, in particular orientation.

If you compare property tables, you’ll quickly see that z Bending is, unsurprisingly, much worse across the board.
And that only PA6-CF gives a better ultimate load than PLA :face_with_monocle:

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14 answers and it still isn’t clear to me if @michaeldurham7 meant

-Metal-filled PLA filament for aesthetic/magnetic/conductive purposes, or

-Filament that is high-fill metal filament where the binder is designed to melt out in a post-printing sintering process, leaving a metal part.

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Since he marked my post as a solution, it is the metal filled PLA.

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Or, he didn’t know they were two different things. The title suggests to me that he thinks he is printing metal. I may be overthinking this.

Good point. But for me, key is that he has an answer he can move forward with :smiley:

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And nobody was physically harmed in the making of this thread. :joy:

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Umm… :blush: I’m a software guy… I recognized some of the words you used in your explanation.

This is the only literal metal filament I’m aware of: