The object to be printed is a cover for an electrical Plug. It will be subjected to a max temperature of 150° F and a minimum of -30° F.
Overall dims are 60 x 45 mm. The tab on the right needs to depress about 3 mm.
The printer is an X1C.
The original part cannot be used in this application. It is used in the bed of a Ford pickup truck.
For a flexible filament, I’d recommend TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane). It’s durable, flexible, and works well for applications that require some bending, like your cover for the electrical plug. TPU can handle a range of temperatures, including the -30°F to 150°F range you’re looking at. You can easily print with it on the X1C, just make sure to adjust print settings like speed and temperature for optimal results.
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A harder TPU (like shore 98A or 60D) should be perfect for something like this. It is tough, strong, and can allow bending (controlled by infill, solid will bend less than hollow).
The tab portion is going to be either 1.5 or 2 mm thick.
TPU all the way. 98 a should work fine.
You may be able to print this with ASA/ABS or even PETG. You will get a decent amount of flex with your tab design. Do be aware that the tab isn’t in the optimal orientation as the strength of the part is dependant on your layer adhesion.
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Well that is a rather large range and if you need flexibility and form stability over that whole temp range then there isn’t much choice out there.
Only one I know of in this temperature range is PEBA filament which also has a high chemical resistance againsty things like oil, gasoline & diesel
If you have PA (nylon) filaments, this looks like a good use for it. For a thin print like this, nylon is flexible. But like @JonRaymond said above, for a thin model like this that can be designed accurately to fit dimension-wise, other materials that can handle the temperature range may work as well.
Too brittle, the tab reaks off.
PETG is fairly UV and heat resistant and would easily provide the necessary flexibility and springiness for the locking tab.
I would print this with a long edge down to make the hooks and tab as strong as possible. Any surface defects caused by supports will be hidden.
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Freshly dried PTEG is too brittle.
I think it’s the opposite. Either way you can just soak the print in water for a bit.
Pls explain, I’ve not heard of this trick, does it also work with ABS? Annealing the part, another option?
I use PETG quite often, for clips, clamps and other applications where I rely on it to spring and bend, never had it break or crack. I don’t waste my time trying to print with wet filament.
I am assuming that if the PETG being dry would cause it to be brittle, wouldn’t adding humidity to it make it stronger. Not sure if this would work, just a theory. Although I thought it was the other way, that wet filament was more brittle.
A little update, I purchased a spool of TPU for AMS. It is very flexible and prints well with the Bambu settings. No issues with the filament so far.