Looking for a pinout for P1S hotend

I’m looking to make a rig to allow me to heat the hotend off the printer for unclogging. I already bought a the extruder daughter board so I have the connector (I haven’t decided whether to use my own PCB or rig something with the daughter board yet).

For info, it looks like the connector is 2x10 and that probably the pins are used in pairs and grouped together. I can doubtless probe the pins myself and work it out but it’s a hassle if someone already has it. (If I do it myself, I’ll post the results here).

Well, I got motivated. I’m not sure what the numbering convention will be so I’ll do it pictorially.

Heater- H1 and H2

Thermistor- T1 and T2

H1 H1 H1 T1 T1 T2 T2 H2 H2 H2

 o  o  o  o  o  o  o  o  o  o 

 o  o  o  o  o  o  o  o  o  o 

H2 H2 H2 T2 T2 T1 T1 H1 H1 H1

Interestingly, this means the connector itself can be inserted upside down and the same connections will be made. Makes sense but nice to see all the same.

I think for the effort it’s worth, I’m going to design a board and transplant the connector. I can make the design available if anyone is interested.

I dunno your goals but, you can just connect DC 24V to the heater core’s wire from a bench supply. no pcbs involved at all, it heats up manually

There’s not really a good point to attach. Do you go for the exposed metal on the ceramic?

I was thinking of doing temperature control too so the thermocouple would be useful.

Creating PCBs is not really a biggie with the fabs out there now…


cut there, add own connector or clips. limit to 1amp when you’re driving it manually. Your choice what to do with the thermister - its the 2 thin wires, and technically could still be useful depending how fancy your other end is.

You might also want to check continuity with a multimeter before wiring anything permanent. A few of the community pinout diagrams floating around are slightly inconsistent between revisions, especially around the thermistor and fan pins. Better safe than frying a board or heater.

Yeah, not cutting wires for an unclogging. Plus I already have the PCB.