Looking for waterproof printing setting (PETG) G1/2" fittings

Yes it take some testing to see the changes you will get better at it even some times you don’t even need to do test 2

Now some guys like this and some guys don’t but if you want to get a quick flow rate base target this works just put the numbers in the flow rate calculator from a single wall test print.

Basic Flow Calculator

Flow Rate Calculator

Advance Flow Calculator = Click on Flow Rate Tab

Flow Rate Calculator

Then you can fine tune the flow rate using the flat surface test prints.

Picture upload works again.

Temperature Check.

Flow Check1

Flow Check2

Max Volume test

What is the result of this test? What settings should I apply? There was last a value of 200 set in the material profile. Which seems very high to me. How should the test be read and evaluated?

Kind regards

Those are going to be hard for the rest of use to judge because we can’t really see any detail.

Do another temp tower from 285 down to 250. I have read a lot of people are having better results at higher temps with the speed. Also a cooling factor, especially with overhangs, increase part cooling and turn off aux cooling - [SOLVED] Bad quality when printing PETG - #243 by djeZo888 This link to a recent post in that thread explains it.

There should be documentation on how to interpret the wavy line one (VFA I think). I have not had a chance to run mine yet.

Because of the lack of documentation, I did the max volume test based on this model: Printables

But I think, the results for the OrcaSlicer max volume test are to interpret in the same way. So you need the replace the values (start, end, step) and meassure / calculate the max volume like in the link.


what exactly does determining the maximum print volume do for me?

I am very satisfied with my print quality so far.


Kind regards

Good Day, my Friend!

I posted a long post yesterday (I’m sure you’re surprised it was long, LOL) on Calibration. I mentioned to you I was doing that, it’s mostly done.

It’s not finished since I was very tired and couldn’t post the pictures due to an error in the Forum (now fixed).

It’s meant to help everyone understand the Calibration process better. One thing that I have to finish is the Max Volume test. SoftFever didn’t cover it in the Wiki.

I have a text description done, you might read that, but I didn’t have a good picture of the markers on the end. Your pic is excellent, do you mind if I use it in my post?
The post is here:

@3DTech and @Sticks are giving you great advice, glad to see you moving along!

On the Max Volume test - Those lines on the end help you count. Every large marker is 5mm/sec3. But I’d recommend you read my instruction in that post. You should really start at a higher and end at higher values.

The 200mm/sec3 you see listed is the settings just for the test, to remove any possible limits, you can’t print even close to that value.

It’s very important you don’t change any values when doing a test!!
You also must start a New Project for each test and ‘Discard’ and settings. The tests are predefined for all settings.

It’s also obvious, but easy to forget, that you must save the settings to the Filament Profile once you find the new value! So you end up saving repeatedly. I gave some tips for naming you might read.

I must admit I twice forgot to do the save step in my hurry to do the next test! :person_facepalming:

What’s your current Max Flow Rate value?

what exactly does determining the maximum print volume do for me?

When you want to find out the max output your hot end can do with that filament then you would drop 10% of that number to be a safe setting of the max volumetric speed.

But lets just say it will go up to 18mm/s with your current petg filament and it all looks good but the thing with petg filaments is it’s not a speed friendly filament and you can get weak layer bonding so you might put it to lets say 14mm/s max volumetric speed for the current filament to have good layer bonding you can also tweak temps and cooling you just have to find the happy spot for your petg filament.

So you can use the 14mm/s volumetric speed to not allow the print speed to go over 172.0 when the nozzle line width is @ 0.45

I hope this explains the ways it can be used I will even sometimes drop the volumetric speed to say 6mm/s if I want to slow my print speed down for a part and not change the speed setting in my process profile.


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Hi, you are welcome to use my pictures for illustration.

I haven’t changed anything in the max flow rate yet, because everything looked good in the test. I think the goal is to pick the line that is getting worse and take the next lower value.

Because the test with me as I see no annomalien shows I have adjusted so far nothing. But as you say. If I start with a higher value and go even higher, I will probably see changes at some point.



ok that sounds plausible.

So in principle, the maximum possible speed is very strongly braked by this value or not. So the test makes sense in this respect, because it allows you to obtain the maximum speed while maintaining the same quality. If one now disregards the strength of the layer adhesion.

Kind regards

The current Value:


Now you have to help me with the evaluation, please. Where is my result now? How do I read off the correct value?

Kind Regards


I count 11 great lines until the first failure. How do I now determine the volume?

Kind Regards

I looked at the result of the sliced part. Change from line-types to volume (i think)


Yes,thats the way i go for my kalibrations, but maybe there is a better way :smiley:

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Thank you!



You can do it by counting the lines, or using Calipers, but this is the easiest! Just match the last good line.

That’s great! Make sure you a give a 8% - 10% margin.

So if you got 19.52 as the last good line, then you use a value of 18.

Reason - Even the best filament will have some thinner and thicker spots, and as well as other factors that require some “wiggle” room. :slightly_smiling_face:

Also - Be certain you do this test as last, as all the other tests will affect it. Some people that are perfectionists will do the whole set twice. I don’t feel the need for that level of pain … :grin:

But if I had a really critical item or a particularly difficult filament I might do it twice as they do interact.

Years ago I fixed hard drives and there were interacting adjustments you would have to run as much as six times back and forth to get it right, but that’s a bit much for this, we’re not requiring perfection.


here you can see my results

The yellow prints are the results of my manual configuration.

  1. My current own Profil. Thread looks not perfect and must be recut. But it is tighter then the next one who looks better.

  2. Printed with from Bambu Support recommanded Settings for PA but with PET-G material profile. Thread looks great, but its already untight on the bottom.

  3. Some of my first prints with PET in red. The print is tight, but the thread looks not so good.

  4. One of my last prints with PET-G in black, thread looks not very good but the part is tight.

Currently, my own profile is still the best. But it has also become worse than before in this case. I probably have to make adjustments to the profile again. Probably select the temperature a little higher, so that the layers are better melted.

Kind regards

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I know it was a lot of work but in the long run you will be better off :grinning:

Did you do a modifier on the threads and try .16 layer height for the threads they will come out better.

Like I have said before you will want to run these parts on the hot side to get them layers to bonded real good :smiley:

Also I would keep the speed @ 100mm/s max for these parts for what you are doing with them you can set your volumetric speed down for this project.

Great Job :+1:

For threads, simply use variable layer height. It is the best compromise between speed and quality as it does not waste any time where it is not required, but gives perfect quality where you actually need it.

I haven’t tried with the layer height of 0.16mm for the thread yet.

But the problem is currently unfortunately again the tightness at the bottom! So there water comes through again. Now of course I do not know where the problem lies here. Because in principle, my flow is now above the setting before. However, it was tight in the old setup.

I have a guess as to what the problem might be. And that is to print the outer wall first and then the inner wall. That helped a lot with my last build as well. But then of course the thread gets very bad because it starts on the outside with the wall.

But I’m still now actually a few steps back again.

Have any of you also experimented with the settings?

At the moment I am a bit frustrated because I have printed 3 leaking fittings again.

Kind regards

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The thread, by the way, goes quite smoothly. It is also in order (for now) I would first have to get the leakage back under control.

Kind regards