Quality Tab
Turn on ironing
Advanced - turn off only one wall on top surface
Strength tab
Detect thin walls
Change bottom surface pattern to concentric or Achimedean chords
Increase your bottom shell layer count to 8 or more
100% infill
Infill pattern Achimedean chords
Make sure detect narrow internal solid infill and vertical shell thickness is checked
Speed tab
First layer infill reduce to 50mm/s
Others tab
Special Mode - slicing mode change to close holes, but that might make your plug solid with no center hole
Actually, I was going in another direction of thought. Is this part to cap a standard thread or some custom thing?
The reason I ask is F360 has a little thing many people miss that’s very handy. It can insert thousands of predesigned standard parts for many things including plumbing parts.
Now, I’m in the US (so it’s in inches) and I suspect you’re not, so yours might have different companies to choose from, but there’s literally hundreds of thousands of 3D pre-designed parts out there for free.
If you did this as a drawing and it’s custom, very well done. But if it’s standard, save your time.
One big advantage of using pre-designed parts is the dimensions, threads, etc will be perfect and when you convert for a 3D print it will convert perfectly. You can download either the part as a 3D object or the Drawing of it and then extrude it yourself.
Now, you’ve gotten some excellent advice for some other solutions to your current issue, I especially like the resin ideas like @3DTech 's idea of Gyroid fill and leaving the top layer off so it can fill inside!
But I wanted you to know this resource is available.
Cheers!
i´m back form easter holiday! And i prepare some new fittings and other parts for my project.
In this case i have created a ticket at Bambu support maybe they have experience with water tight objects or they know better settings for successful prints.
I have another question. I would like to start a large print and i will need the complete printbed for this.
Have anyone a idea, how can i skip the first printed test layers? This is fixed included in start gcode isn´t it?
Here I have printed the actual settings for one of my test blind plugs with PET-G.
I have tested several versions. This one is set up for thread cutting. This printed part is not tight. The top side does not look very good.
I’m not sure what the problem is. I am smoothing out the print in the last layer. I will upload the print data here so you can see the settings.
The bottom layers seem to be tight here because the water is running out over the thread. Since in this case the main seal is a gasket, I suspect the notches you see in the last top layers are causing this leak.
Yes, I thought so too. However, as far as I have seen, the forum only allows the upload of photos. This is of course a problem if you want to share settings for optimization.
Maybe I need to use an external file sharing service for that. Can anyone recommend something? Or have I not found the upload function of this file format yet?
I don’t know if it’s programmed correctly, but it seems to be some kind of bug.
I noticed that although you can select a pattern for the bottom layer and top layer respectively, and you can add the number of layers or in consideration of milimeters. But it consistently generates only one layer in that pattern for the bottom layers. the rest is generated as internal solid fills. And if you take a close look at the layers, you can see that depending on the alignment angle, open spaces remain here. I don’t know if the wall to fill overhang of 30% is taken into account at all. I have increased this to 70% as a test, but nothing really changes in the overlap of the wall to the solid internal filling. And unfortunately you can’t set a print pattern for the internal solid fill, or set it to not do an internal solid fill, but instead print consistently with the selected pattern. Here, in my opinion, is a bug in the software, because it makes only the first layer almost completely closed. With the TopLayer it behaves even worse. In my example, only a small TopLayer is used to close the infill on the inside. All preceding TopLayers are internal solid fills, which are printed as a straight line and unfortunately this cannot be controlled. That’s it. Except for that little bit, no other TopLayer is printed. The only thing you can do is to increase the wall layer so that no infill or top and bottom layers are printed.
Have a look at my small series of pictures. I would be interested in what you think about it. I wonder why only the top or bottom layer works with the selectable pattern. If this is only for optical reasons, it doesn’t really make much sense.
can you tell me what the current version of Bambu Studio is in use?
Im using 1.5.0.61 and for example i have no further settings under seam. Only the selection Seam position is visible.
And another question.
The delivered material Support W is that a PVA?
My current setup should be work for smal parts now, but its very interesting what you choose in your settings. I will run further tests with your settings.
No i have not do a shrinkage test. Is it recommanded?
I use Orca Slicer and the Support W is not a PVA filament its more like a PLA filament.
Plus I manual calibrate all my filaments and settings.
Yes do the shrinkage test if you want your parts to be as close as possible to your specs. Print the part out and you will find out when the part has cooled off and you measure it as see how much it has changed in size each type of filament will be a different shrinkage rate.
yes you are right. especially larger parts, as I plan to do. That will be a challenge. But I will not be able to realize this with 3D printing alone. Therefore I will work with different components. For small parts, for example, it may be enough to brush the surface with a liquid superglue and let it dry. Afterwards perhaps the thread again after-cut. This has worked for me with leaking parts to a certain extent.
Another option would be to coat with acrylic paint or something similar. This makes reworking more complicated, but at the current prices for these fittings, you can make perfectly serviceable and durable parts with it.
I’ll keep you guys posted. Right now I’m running a larger print and I’m curious to see if the part will hold its operating pressure later.
Today i use the first time two printed layer support with PVA material for the support connection. I hope that the nozzle can load this material. It is soft. Hope that this will not break the print. I have read that PLA is a option for support structure, because it should not stick on PETG. Sounds better as PVA in some case of easy support structures.
PETG for PLA support works great. PLA for PETG, not so much. You really have to purge A LOT. A tiny little bit of contamination of PLA in the PETG will make it brittle for the first couple layers, cause bad layer adhesion.
Yes, unfortunately, the printing did not go well during the night. As I already thought, the material PVA is too soft for the extruder. he has printed the first layers but when retracting the material has jammed in the AMS and the print has stopped.
in the morning i was able to correct the error but of course the support transitions are now very bad. if i had worked better with simple support, the result would have been better. It has to be said, although there is an AMS here, it does not work smoothly with exactly the materials that would be good for it.
One thing you might try to help the upper surface is to turn on General >Ironing .
After doing a top layer, it runs the nozzle over the top surface(s) slowly at reduced temp with a trickle of filament (10% default, but adjustable) to smooth the surface. I’d suggest for this you use “All Top Surfaces”.
That should solve any leak against the gasket.
Glad to see you’re making good progress on this. Learning experiences and all that.
