Absolutely, but the printing time is then increased by 1000%.
I have today already printed actually too long for a relatively small part and I have to look that I get the time here somehow reduced, because the next part is again quite a bit higher.
Kind regards
DrCarbon
What parameters can I improve here?
Printing takes too long with over a day. I need to revise my parameters to get the print time down. But I still need to be able to print thread and it needs to be tight…
Too bad there is no direct function to copy the parameters via text file.
Kind regards
DrCarbon
Hi
Do you get along with the German tabs? Or do I need to change my language interface?
Here are my current settings for my print. As I said, I am now trying to optimize the settings so that large “dense” prints come out. But with a current printing time of over a day at the size is of course too long for me and actually too much material with over 700g.
Kind regards
DrCarbon
LOL! A bit dramatic but I get it. 
Yes, it does increase printing time, but you can select a few layers and use a modifier to turn it on only for those layers! Like this:
Turn Ironing on for just the section that touches the gasket (green area in this example. I set it to 100% infill to add strength to a section. You can vary virtually anything in different sections. Tune for speed, appearance, strength, etc. Very powerful!
I agree!
I’ll leave the suggestions for improving print time to others more qualified as I’m out of time for today for posting … 
Cool.
Can you please describe how you do this. that would be very helpful! I haven’t figured this out yet. Your example looks good overall.
Many Thanks
Kind regards
DrCarbon
I print petg with support layers the best one I have used is AquaTek™ X1 Advanced USM [Universal Support Material] but its not cheap but will get the job done.
My german is not very good but I get the jist of your settings
A couple of more simple suggestions I would add for a more water tight print with greater layer adhesion is simply increase your layer hights to .28mm, increase the line width to .45 and bump up the temp
In your filament settings you should be ok to have your max volumetric flow to 27mm 3/ŝ
But I would start with larger layer hights and larger line widths printing a touch hotter than the recommended temps
If you want better detail or finer layers at the threads or overhangs just use the variable layer hight option and left click your mouse while the curser is in the area you want to reduce
I figure with what looks like pipe thread you should still be ok at a .28mm layer hight
Lots of fantastic advice on this thread, I’m more of a simple solution kind of guy myself lol
Hi,
I tried to optimize the settings with your recommended settings. My first new print was a little better in the outer wall and the parts are currently also waterproof. But I set the max volumetric only up to 20 because I read that the carbon generally prints too fast.
Now I started a 17 hour print and I’m not sure if I should stop it again, the printed lines look funny. As if it suddenly over-extrudes. What can I do spontaneously? Or should I cancel the job for now?
I’m sharing a picture of the current print.
The lines look blotchy, but apparently only on certain lines.
Is that as per @ThanksForAsking recommendations ?
If it was anything I threw out there you might want to actually reduce the line width a touch rather than increase it
What was your settings for this yellow part ?
It would be best do a manual flow ratio calibration and PA test with orca slicer when using the texture plate do to the BL automatic flow calibration can be off.
This part looks like it will also be under force and using bolts.
If so I would go with.
0.24 layer height
7 wall loops
7 top and bottom layers & monotonic pattern for both
Infill 50% with Honeycomb or Gyroid when using PETG
If you want the top layer smoother you can set top surface line width to 0.35
Run some small test parts if they look good then run the big part
Hi together,
Yes exactly @Jrock that was a setting you have recommanded.
Overall, the print looks useful in any case. At the moment, I have more of a problem with the material running after the start, and this probably interferes with the autoleveling, which can lead to slight mismeasurements, which then becomes visible in the first layers.
I did not have this problem before. Maybe 265°C is also to hot for PET-G. I have regulate the temperature down until print to 260°C.
I will also revise the settings again. But I still have to say that this part also looks quite dense. With the support he had problems, I had to say that I had to pull the support manually with this part. This has unfortunately not worked well in practice. But the hole what I have supported, has nevertheless become quite good.
@3DTech
I will gladly consider trying this out again with your settings. In this case, I have even reduced wall grinding to 4, because with the current settings I have obtained a tight component in a test pattern plug, even despite infill of 15% inside the thread!
Kind regards
DrCarbon
This video by Angus on Makers Muse talks about holes w/o support. Might work for you.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-6tIkTrcwA&ab_channel=Maker%27sMuse
Well, this one is probably better explained by a Youtube as it’s not just a single click or change a number for a setting. It is totally worth your time to watch these, you’ll use it for years.
Here are a couple different ones, the first is German (I think, LOL I don’t speak it …). I would watch all three as different people explain things from different viewpoints! 
This is another popular one:
And this is a short one for Bambu Slicer so you see how it’s different:
Remember that Bambu Studio and OrcaSlicer are the same for most things, about 95% similarity. Both are born from Prusa Slicer, so the info is valid for those videos, with very slight changes for us.
Finally, since you are working hard with a lot of the settings in OrcaSlicer, you might watch this one, it’s much better than most for explaining the settings
Don’t forget, you can change the speed of Youtube videos, helps a lot if you have a long video and a slow speaker, or to slow down someone for better comprehension!
Click the Gear on the bottom and choose Playback Speed:
Cheers!
Hi together,
thanks for your feedback. I will need to have some time to get deeper into your comments.
But i think i have another problem for now. After i use the new material PET-G yellow and the new settings it looks like that my nozzle is clogged. Not completed, but im sure that the lines have drops.
I will make tomorrow a new picture from the start test layers.
Kind regards
DrCarbon
Hi
can you take a look? Does the material flow look normal to you? Is it because of the material color that the substrate shines through, or are there drops in there like that?
Greetings
DrCarbon
The test lines look normal, but I have never seen fuzzy PETG. Does that have an additive? CF?
Are you still keeping your filament Dry? READ - placed in hot environment (60*c) for 5 to 6 hours and stored in vacuum bag when not used? It only takes 5 or 6 hours in a 50%+ humidity atmosphere to get wet again.
You have been fighting this for almost 3 weeks. Have you looked into using ASA, ABS, or another filament than PETG - which is by far one of the hardest materials to 3d print with.
This Filament is brand new, open and directly used.
Its eSUN PETG Filament 1.75mm, 3D Drucker Filament PETG
There is no additive like CF.
I got a answer from BambuLab Support regarding my problem.
they recommanded to user material like PCTG or CPE-HT or PA6.6
But you could be right. Could the PET-G be wet from the factory?
Gruß
DrCarbon
I agree with @Sticks - that picture of the first layer looks very rough, and that is almost always damp filament. Damp filament will do many odd things - layer separation, blobs, ugly surfaces, and just being a pain in the a$$.
I gave you some advice about this earlier:
What brand of filament is that? Each company has their own plastic blend (formula) and you need to use the manufacturers suggested drying time and temp as it varies between brands.
Also, try to do the drying in as dry an environment as you can. Heating filament to dry on a boat at sea won’t work very well …
But seriously, the dryer the room the better. And, as Sticks said - it only takes a few hours for some of them to reabsorb moisture again, a real problem for a 7 hour print, that’s why the AMS is nice.
But - what is not obvious is every time you open the AMS it takes hours to get back down in humidity, so open as little as possible. It’s only a “dry box” if kept closed.
Another silly thing to check is that you removed the plastic bag from around the desiccant bags that came with the AMS, a lot of people miss that. 
Finally, don’t forget that many filaments arrive moist in the bag from the maker! It’s a good habit to dry any moisture loving (PETG, NYLON, PA, PC, and most high temp materials) as soon as you un-bag it. IN A DRY ROOM!
EDIT: You answered as I was writing this! LOL
EDIT 2:
Not to be rude, but you really need to look at the videos I posted. I chose them to help with your problem. You want to solve this problem, well it’s best to follow the advice given rather then trying a bunch of new things you thought of yourself like changing to another PETG.
Well, this shows that what several of us including @Sticks just said was you should really consider dropping PETG for this project. Here’s what I feel about what BL Support suggested -
Anything labeled ‘PA’ is Polyamide commonly called Nylon, and is an excellent suggestion for this project.
" PCTG belongs to the same family of polyesters as the increasingly popular PET-G." this is a silly recommendation from them, but at least they’re trying as it is very similar to PETG, just a variant really.
CPE-HT is a good recommendation too, here’s one brand that explains it well -
And this one from later in the discussion (he wasn’t happy he got damp filament out of the box…):
It’s quite likely you have damp filament and the first one will halp you dial in the settings.
Are you using Bambu Studio or OrcaSlicer (same but with some nice changes)?
I’ve dried TPU straight out of the factory sealed bag and seen the weight drop by eight grams.
Use your X1C (with firmware 01.03.00.00 or newer) to dry the filament and see if your results improve.
That’s a great feature, but he’s been fighting moisture issues from the start, I suspect he’s got a damp environment where the printer is and drying in a damp environment doesn’t usually work well.
To mangle an old expression - Moisture IN = Moisture OUT.
But it’s a cool feature and a great thought! 
