Max wattage of the heat cartridge

Does anyone know the max wattage of the heat cartridge we can install on the Bambu X1C without safety issues ?

I found 88W heater from Rapido V2 kit, will the Bambu support it or will the wires melt ?

Anyone know if 60W cartridge exists ?

Apparently 60W must be supported, Revo's for Bambu X1 Carbon - #13 by masc2279

Also, someone (Revo's for Bambu X1 Carbon - #34 by maximit) mentioned trying dual heater - I assume they mean two stock heaters in parallel which would be 80W. I have no idea if that is supported or not.

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A 22AWG wire should be fine if we can believe this chart : https://www.lumentruss.com/wp-content/uploads/lumentruss_files/LUMINERGIE/Lumentruss/LT_gauge-chart.pdf

Yes im running dual stock heaters in parallel at 96W on the X1C with no problems so far, been a few months.

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Here is what it can do with ASA on a 0.6mm CHT nozzle … just ran the test with the same settings as the PLA test I ran, starting at 20mm³/s up to 60mm³/s in 1mm increments, bumping the temp higher as it went up. It actually completed the test with no skips or errors! Thats 60mm³/s and still not hitting the top end!

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Looks promising, I should receive my 88W cartridge soon so I’ll be able to perform my own tests.

On my side, when I perform a flow test I don’t change the temp and use the same temp used when printing parts with tested filament, find that’s more representative of everyday print conditions.

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I don’t think you should worry about the wiring as much as you should the PWM controller/mosfet and the connector on the board.

I always bump my temp higher when I go Ludicrous mode as recommended by Bambu. So it is representative of my real world use case.

OK, I’ve received the 88W heat cartridge, and it’s damn fast heating…

26s to go from 40°C to 220°C, when it takes around 1min for stock heater.

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Awesome… would love to see a max flow test and some photos!

I’ve lunched a 3 days print, will do that after.

Until now (~30h printing time with 88W), everything is working flawlessly.

Test performed with 0.4 nozzle CHT style from Ali at 220°C with Eryone PLA Blue


Good print quality up to ~28-30 mm³/s

At 230°C, it’s good up to 35mm³/s

T° is stable at any flow, but results aren’t that much better than with stock heater, it’s just faster.
Probably a different story with 0.6 and 0.8

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Yea it’s not really something you need for a 0.4 you’re not pushing the flow enough to bother the stock one.

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So that connector is only rated to 3

Not sure what the board is rated for but I could measure nthr trace’s and figure out what the max is.

But 88w is going to be 3.6A. board is probably good for about 4a before a trace vaporizes but that’s a guess I can check it out.

We can perhaps rise the PSU from 24V to 25-26V to reduce amps a bit ?

Any idea the max voltage we can go ?

Fans should support even higher voltage, but will have shorter lifespan.

The max power is only reached for 26s max, and the length of the cable, board traces are rather short.

Maximit go as high as 96W (4A), seems OK for a few months.

60W cartridge will be better but haven’t been able to find any.

It’s a resistive load, that would increase the current. Not to mention the issues elsewhere.

Yes but it would decrease the current for a given power. You could bump the voltage instead of using a higher rated heater. A 48W heater would output 50W at 25V or 52W at 26V.

Because of PID its only hitting the max amperage when initially heating the hot end to working temp so I am not super concerned. I do have a spare TH board set in case I fry anything, but so far no issues. I will report back if anything gets fried and post photos.

I do believe the upcoming larger Bambu enclosed printer will have a higher flow and higher power hot end. Hopefully we will be able to retrofit it to the X/P1 series.

Voltage No idea I’d have to go through and look at everything and do some math.

A 60w should be fine it’s still falls within spec for everything. You’ll initially only have that draw when it’s heating up or if you’re putting really fast Will say a CHT. Or printing something like polycarbonate.

From an engineering standpoint the highest I would personally go would be a 60w. Now I can take some stuff apart and get some measurements and take some thermals and see how everything runs.

Or from a safety standpoint I’m just going to advise people not to do it. I don’t know where people’s electronics knowledge and abilities stand so I can’t make that call. And I believe that if somebody has to ask a question like that and they lack the ability and knowledge to do something. I mean I can order one of the 80w heaters and then do a full evaluation of it take a bunch of measurements and report back on my findings. I don’t care if my printer burns out I don’t use it for anything And I don’t know electronics background and I work with optoelectronics. So just tell me what to buy and what to do and I’ll get it done.

The 60W was my first idea, but as far as I know it doesn’t exists at the moment.

I’m running the 88W since a week non stop, no issues.

But from a safety standpoint you’re right, it’s not the best solution as we doesn’t know if it’s supported by the printer in the long term.

As it doesn’t bring any added value for the 0.4 nozzle I’ll revert back to the 48W, at least until a 60W is made available.