There is now a new option, a 70W flat ceramic heater that can be fitted. I have two incoming, I will let you know when its here. Also a manufacturer im talking to is going to release a plug and play 70W one soon. Swing by my website and we can chat some more about the 70W if anyone is interested.
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I really like the idea of 2x40W though (could be 2x30 or 2x35 for that matter), heating from two sides. But maybe itâs not that much of an advantage?
Twice as much area to lose heat into the sock like that, so not ideal. The stock config looses a considerable amount of heat into the silicone sock already - I wrap mine in a few layers of kapton before the sock goes on.
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The stock ones are 48W not 40W. I have them 90 degrees side by side as those are the two flat sides and the clip still fits over them. Another guy did 2 across from each other, but he had to jerry rig a new clip as the stock one did not fit. Like I said there is now a single 70W heater that replaces the stock.
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Could you provide the link to the 70W ?
Thanks
Iâm not arguing that but Iâm curious how you came to this conclusion, as they specify it as 40W. I saw âsomeone on redditâ mentioning something similar (stock 40W being actually 52W while CHT knockoff â48Wâ being actually only 43W) but he had it from measuring resistance in room temperature (stock 12 ohms vs. CHT 13.4 ohms) and doing the math. That calculation does check out for sure but Iâm not entirely sure it is the proper way to measure it? Admittedly I have no idea how these things are usually specâed.
Anyway I think a much more interesting figure would be how much power it has when trying to remedy a real-world temperature drop around 230°C. I have been meaning to measure actual voltage and current while mounted in the printer, and/or measure resistance just like he/she did, while heating to various temperatures with a heat gun. If/when I get the energy to something like that I will post results.
Itâs Bambu who say itâs 48W
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That is very interesting, and good news! Perhaps they bumped it after first drafts? Because they also say 40W, for example here: Bambu Lab X1-Carbon Combo 3D Printer | Bambu Lab EU and Bambu Lab X1 Series | Desktop 3D Printer | X1-Carbon - Bambu Lab
I need to investigate my several packages of heaters (not to mention 9 complete hotends) and see if they are all the same or not⊠I mean 48W is a 20% increase over 40W so if some of my heaters turn out to be 40W Iâll toss them and replace with newer. My printer is fairly new though (August) so perhaps Iâm all good.
Just ordered one of these. Iâll have it tomorrow but wonât be back home until Sunday.
So I check out see if itâs a real 60w and see how the hotend runs. Looks like it should be nice. It I wonât recommend it over the current aftermarket ones until I try it. But Iâll recommend it over the stock ones because they are complete trash and designed to fail.
Xirbbo Upgraded Tz3.0 High Flow Temperature All Metal Rapido Hotend, 60w Ceramic Heater Hot End Kit Parts for Bambu Lab X1 / X1 Carbon 3D Printer https://a.co/d/3MiWyUP
Have you had a chance to try the Xirbbo hotend yet? I just got one sent to me to review, but am hesitant to replace the stock hotend. I can find no reviews on this item
Hey have you test it Finaly I search for a solution for more heating power
I tested it, it work well.
We recommend caution when using heaters that are higher than 48W.
The Toolhead Board is designed for that wattage and using a larger heater can lead to damage to the Toolhead Board.
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OK, but you (Bambu) have validated the 60W of Panda Revo nozzle, so it must support even higher wattage as you have to keep a safety margin.
Will be nice if you can release 60W heat cartridge for standard nozzle.
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I just stuck a Bambu approved E3D Obsidian hotend in my X1C. Love it and definitely one easy and effective upgrade if youâre going to be doing high volume or aggressive filaments. Not a big advantage for most.
I think the wattage of the heater is holding it back and the rest of the printer is more than capable of handling the speeds / accelerations.
Not sure how it would affect the insane printing reliability thatâs there without mods.
Might be something for a commercial X1 Turbo - a heated chamber and a fancy hotend with a big heater.
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The E3D Obsidian hotend is the worse Iâve tested, filament stick a lot on it and I also have a lot of filament flowing out of the nozzle during color change, it ruin my prints.
I of course tried lower temp as E3D placed the thermistor on the other side, but I see print a slight drop in print quality.
I donât call that an upgrade.
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Is yours missing the anti stick coating on the tip? My 0.4 and 0.6mm e3d nozzles have been great at not letting filament accumulate on them.
I wouldnât go lower temp, mine are set 5 to 10C higher than stock nozzle (depending on speed, a bit higher up to 15C)
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