Yes, what about the 60w Revo heater? 48w is not enough in some cases. I know a few guys that wired up 80W thermistors and have been running production every day on the X1C.
Got my 80W ceramic heater for my P1S. Heats up from room temperature to 200°C in 17 seconds. Haven’t had a lot of time to do any other testing and really wish I had some ASA filement.
I only tested PLA and it does fluctuate about +/- 4°C when printing normal/slow speeds, drops to 2°C difference when printing faster. Also, seems like there is an algorithm that adjusts temps to remain at the target temperature because half way through both prints it got 1°C -/+ the target temperature. This is speculation but no PID tuning and getting closer to the target temperature on both prints makes me think that’s the case but i could be wrong.
I printed a storage box using the default PLA settings in Bambu Studio at 0 02mm layer height with the built in profile. Then printed same box but raised the flow rate from 22 (Bambu default for PLA).to 34. Let it start, cranked it up to ludicrous and it printed an hour and a half faster. Firat one took just under 4 hours, second one was right at 2 hours and 20 minutes. Zero difference in quality.
I also noticed that the same vendor sells. 77W ceramic heaters for TZ V6 hotends which is just a TZ2/3 for various Ender 3 models, CR-10 and Prusa. MK3. I checked a few real quick and they ship with 24V 40W heaters (stock hotend doesn’t use ceramic, at least the ones I checked). They are the only vendor on Aliexpress selling.these (on the date this was posted) as they make the majority of products they sell, which means they probably did all the testing before release, plus the store has over 50K.followers.with a 4.9 rating. So I’m not worried about it, I know Bambu doesn’t recommend it but on the US site it still lists 40W ceramic heater for the X1, now it’s apparently either 48W or 60W although I don’t believe Bambu has officially verified 60W.
If it’s 48W then the REVO would void your warranty. If it’s 60W then that’s a 20W difference since release.with zero hardware changes although I believe there waa 1 or 2 changes from the 1st Kickstarter for the X1 units sold but nothing involving power or electronics.
I seriously doubt Bambu would reject the warranty for someone using the REVO but they could if it’s 48W max. I would like to hear them tell that too someone who just went out and bought an X1 with AMS,. REVO hotends and say, another 150 for their diamond quick swap nozzle so.aroumd 2K total if it had any issues after say 45 days of purchase.
Regarding swiss3d, they made their debut at the rocky mountain maker fair, where they said they may have an adapter for the BBL hotends. Here it is on youtube. I set the timeindex to just before where that gets mentioned:
Their website says they may be accepting pre-orders at the end of this month, though it’s not clear whether or not the BBL adapter will be among those. From the look of their website, their biggest target is creality printers like the ender 3.
That’s the first video I saw, for some reason I either couldn’t find it again or I haven’t posted enough to post links.
It’s a pretty ingenious system. The difference versions are how long the melting zone is, the one for the CHT heatsinks (TZ2) as it has to have screws at the bottom of the heatsink to attach. Stock and Ty Z3 don’t have those on the heatsink but the TZ2 does and you can just order the heatsink. The optional adapter me serves 2 purposes I believe. To make it fit more hotends and possibly to extend the melting zone which is how you get 24mm with that being the distance from the tip of the nozzle to the bottom of the heatsink. Below is from their site.
The DHB 22.5, DHB 24, DHB 33mm, numbers corresponding to each length of high efficiency
Melting Zone on the stock Nozzles.migjt be 24mm, I would need to measure bit the CHT TZ2 hotends heatsink, just the heatsink is going to be required. They have another picture of it on their site.
.On the image, a BambuLab clone Heat Sink modified to integrate the Starlex DHB 24, 24mm of melting zone.
6 seconds for a Nozzle swap…
TZ3 has four screws.on the side that attach.the heatsink Okay,.last.edit, this is a different video but the adapters are to extend the melting zone of printers by raising the z offset which obviously can’t be done on X/P line of printers. I was thinking strictly of Bambu so didn’t realize you can adjust the z offset on almost all other printers, or at least ones before.Bambu…The Prusa example shows same hotends at 3 lengths but more.nozzle.exposed.on opposite side of the nozzle tip the higher you go. That’s were dual.heayera would probably help the most, well that and higher flow also.
Just speculation but probably pricey. That or reasonable for the hotend but the nozzles are expensive. I say that hoping to be wrong but if you go to their site, this is all that’s on there so it’s either a new company or some company that worked behind the scenes in the 3D printing world and this is their first hardware product released.
Someone a few posts above posted that they were going to that festival, hopefully he got a little information. The other video I saw all he would say is “parents pending” when asked about price. I don’t know when that was shot but it was probably a month ago. You can sign up to get an email when more information is available on their site but zero mention of price there either. They might just be trying to get an idea of what the demand is going to be.
They also have 77W ones below. 65W is a smart move by the seller, keeps them just above Revo although I’m unsure if 60W has been “confirmed” by anyone either, just 48W. X1 US page still says 40W , no P1 version but covers TZ E3 V6 HOTEND, X1 CHCB-OT, all using a 48W ceramic heater for various Ender and other models. It does overahoot it’s target temperature when first getting there… that quick spike at the beginning is it getting to 230°C when target was 220°C.
My 80W one has been working great, I usually heat the bed first but I did that before also, especially for ABS/ASA. Super quick heat up times and consistent heating. A bit off at first but settles down to +/- 1°C after 15 minutes.
The heater is a PTC type and the power draw drops rapidly as it heats up. There is no need for 120w PSU. Its only at the full draw for a few seconds as it starts printing. Then its around 50-55w as it prints. I have the 99w for 3000 hours on my X1 and a bit less time on my P1s with no problems.
So, assuming the nozzle doesn’t go below 200°C between color changes, a 99W Rapido pulls ~60W. That’s almost in spec with what BBL claims the TH board can push out continuously.
Home Assistant using the Bambu labs integration. Gives me more info than I get from the P1S stock display and XTouch which is what I use. The only thing it doesn’t allow is changing bed/nozzle temperature and setting various fan speeds which is my only use for the Handy app now. It can turn them on and off. Also saves 2 weeks of history by default and let’s you set the date and time range you want to see For example, nozzle temperature for 5 days, or just an hour if you want.
Best thing is you can set it up to announce when the print is finished or if there is an error over a speaker. I do this with my Sonos sound bar or/and send you a text notification to your phone. It also works with Home Assistants local voice assistant. You can also send it to Google or Amazon if you want to use Google Assistant or an Amazon echo.It just adds the sensor/switch or whatever you want with no configuration on the Google/Amazon side.
Same with the Trianglelab 80W heater. In fact it somehow manages to get right at 48W at 200°C which is just slightly higher than their 70W model. It drops to below 60W at 120-125°C.
Awesome to hear, especially directly from the companies account. Priced exactly right IMO. Same as the REVO but honestly the reviews, or at least the ones I have seen, haven’t been that great. To me, it only made sense if you owned several REVO nozzles.(Just my personal opinion)
As far as getting it out the door, I personally think it’s better to get it right then hit a deadline. Especially with hardware. Seems like every piece of electronics you buy that can connect to the Internet takes 3 or 4 firmware/software updates to work as advertised these days, if not more. Hardware doesn’t have that luxury.
So is owning a CHT heatsink with the upwards screws (V2) the main heatsink requirement? V3 has 4 screws from the sides (2 screws on each side). I’m extremely interested in it but like with any new products you have to be cautiously optimistic until a few reviews or word of mouth drop. That or to have personally seen it working somehow.
They are all PTC heater and they all act the same. Also there is some variance in production. They can range in power, ive had as high as 99w and as low as 77w from triangle.
I would suggest staying away from V3, V2 is a bit better. They tend to clog in the throat with a lot of retraction and/or silk filaments. They have a throat that goes from aluminium to steel with a joint and when filament expands, it tends to create a clog thats hard to clear in the throat and/or extruder clog. Honestly the best is the E3D hot end with a V3 heater element. They have a fully metal lined throat just like stock Bambu. Also the thermals are much better on the E3D for better layer adhesion.