Max wattage of the heat cartridge

My comment was meant for Swiss3Dc and the heatsink as V2 has screws from the bottom which is needed for the Syarlex DHB. I own the OnXidian and love it, I want to get one with a 0.6 nozzle for CF and GF. I know 0.4 works with both but 0.6 is recommended. I saw a video the other day in ABS GF from Bambu. Looks like it negates the need for any heating chamber for larger prints were micro cracks tend to form and it’s 30 bucks from Bambu. ABS really benefits from a heated chamber but not modifying my P1 and honestly they need to reach around 100°C to be effective. QIDI sells them but 300W just for the chamber heater power wise. Ok don’t print enough engineering filaments for that. I think X1E only gets to 60°C. The guy on YouTube was trying to print an engineering part that had to be completely flat. ASA and ABS from Bambu on X1 didn’t work but ABS GF worked perfectly. CNC kitchen also did a really good video on this. Anyway, I’m way off topic now.

I do have a chamber heater on my X1. Unfortunately you run into heat creep issues when you go above 55c as the hot end cooling it not sufficient. I assume its the same with the X1E as they share the same hot end and cooling fan design. Also Bambu has a few suppliers for the hot end fans, some are 0.2a and others are 0.4a. With the weaker one you run into heat creep even earlier then 55c. But 55c is good enough to keep positive air pressure and prevent cold air being sucked in. Perfect to prevent warping with ASA and PA.

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I can easily see heat creep being an issue, the part fan is a non standard size 5015 fan (at least the exhaust size) so no fans above the cooling fan, which is a pretty weak 2510 fan (at different amps) and that’s an issue. I did take a quick look at QIDI’s site and it’s 65°C even for their newest ones which is more than enough for consumers, in fact they are having a sale and all I will say is I wish I had 800 to spend as they are always extremely well reviewed printers. They make 3D printers for businesses doing prototype printing anyways and I don’t think the X1E is in the same league. I don’t think the X1E is that great when the first thing they say on their page comparing it to the X1 is network features, supporting better security protocols and having a LAN port, not needing Bambu Cloud. With zero cooling design changes and the ability to print at 320°C and possibly the bed doing 110°C, I wouldn’t be surprised if heat creep was present at 60°C.

I’m not a fan of Bambu changing or mixing and matching parts when it comes to power. X1 page still says 40W ceramic heater so depending on where and how long it’s been sitting around it may be 40W, maybe 48W although I’m guessing most are 48W by now but how do you know? At least not without the equipment (and knowledge) to measure it. The cooling fan is a pretty big deal so swapping 0.2 amps to 0.4 amps is a pretty significant difference at 5V and makes more of a difference than using a 60W ceramic heater IMO. Not sure how much wattage difference that is but it’s significant enough to make a difference.

May I ask for a picture on how?

Sorry i dont have a picture as im not running that anymore. I am now running a 75-99w single heater that is strong enough. When I had the duals they were 90 degrees from each other on the two flat planes of the nozzle, stock clip.

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why is it so blobby and uneven?

Because it is printed at up to 60mm³/s. that is almost three times the flow of what the stock hotend is able to achieve.

That and also just the angle. Its an 90 degrees from the light source, the worst angle possible. It was not bad in person.

How have these been working out for you?

Its better than V2 and V3 but they are still more prone to heat creep and throat clogs compared to stock or E3D hot ends with PLA. They are also standard flow, no CHT version available, but they do have the convenience of swapping nozzle sizes quickly and a hardened steel tip. E3D Obxidian is still the best option for bambu if you dont mind the higher price.

Im using the Ali v4 hot ends for nylon mainly as heat creep is less of an issue with a stiff high temp filament. Im using stock bambu and E3D hot ends for PLA/PETG/TPU.

(X1C) Obxidian 0.4mm and v2 CHT used

So I want to say this is coincidental from the findings of others. But, I switched to the triangle labs 80w heater and within a week, my TH got fried. My thermoster read 0c. So I said “oh, must have fried my thermoster.” Nope. Then my extruder interface. Still no. Had a spare TH board on hand. And that did it. Replaced the heater with another 80w. Fried again within about a week. Again replaced the interface and TH board. Decided to switch to a 60w heater instead since the revo is “approved kinda” for it. Been running for about 3 months just fine.

I’m unsure still if it was the heater, but it seems to be the only thing I did different. That was with a pretty stock printer. Of course now it’s almost a completely different printer with a chamber heater, upgraded fans, and closed off electronics. (Thanks to mandicReally) But even with all that, the Th board remains fine. I’m not sure if I have really bad luck, or if it was directly related to the heater.

Figured it was worth mentioning this all here as someone may have some more insite to what’s really going on, or a shared experience. I appreciate all the work you all put into this and look forward to your replies!

Could be interesting to identify what as burnt on the TH board.
I run >80W for months without any issues, so perhaps the latest revisions are weaker than boards on day one printers.

I’m interested to know more about chamber heater, upgraded fans and closed off electronics, could you post these mods somewhere?