It just so happened to be that this was about mid day where the sun was warming up the ambient temp in my home. It’s starting to get cooler out so I turned my AC off. Running the chamber and bed so hot I’m sure the electronics compartment was cooking. I turned my air conditioning on to cool off the house and lowered the chamber temp to 60. That seemed to clear the warning.
With that being said, has anyone thought about installing a secondary fan to pull cool air into the electronics compartment? I saw this one on makerworld but it won’t work with the banana chute I use.
I was thinking about designing a bracket that would hold a 6020 fan just inside the rear panel to pull cool air in and blow it towards the MC board. I was also just thinking about cutting a hole in the side panel where the existing mc board fan is so that one can pull cool air in.
Am I crazy for wanting to cut a hole in the side panel of a $3,000 machine? Haha.
No, it wasn’t blocking the heaters output. It was likely a combination of a mildly warm ambient temp and the printer running at about its limits temp wise.
I had a similar error when I was doing a long Nylon print and my chamber was set to 65c. Thankfully it was not a critical error and the printing was not paused. I turned down the chamber temp to 60c and the error cleared pretty much instantly. When Im doing a long (10+ hour) print I just turn down the chamber to 60c.
Sounds like a nearly identical situation. I wonder if adding just a little bit of air flow to the electronics chamber would allow for reliable operation at 65°. That extra 5° definitely helps.
That sensor is probably tuned for 60c chamber temp that is standard on the filament profiles, so even if it throws the error its probably not a big deal. I had chamber heaters on my P1s and X1 and they were all fine with 7000+ hours between them. I did have the TH board fail on X1, but that was due to the dual hot end heaters I was running.
That would make sense as to why none of the profiles have a 65°c chamber temp.
There’s plenty of room behind the panel to add a fan to pull air in. The screen on the panel almost directly lines up with the heat sink too. Just one little fan pushing fresh air towards the heat sink, instead of recirculating warm air like the one in there does, seems like it would help keep things cooler.
You will make the chamber heater work harder if you install that extra fan as you will be pushing cold air in, they will be working against each other. Will probably take away that 5c extra temp we set in the first place.
They most likley have it set to 60c to keep a 5c buffer and prevent the errors we are seeing.
You think a little fan would push enough air to do that? It did cross my mind. Maybe a 4020 instead lol. The electronics compartment is pretty well isolated. Not perfect but I’d imagine any air being pushed in would just push warm air from the compartment out the other half of the screen on the back panel before it got pushed through the little gaps in the panels.
It’s times like this I wish we could actually see the stepper driver temps like you can in fluidd for klipper printers.
Maybe I’ll just stop using pa6 and go back to ppa-cf lol. That stuff doesn’t warp at all and 60° is just fine.
I like PAHT personally as its AMS compatible and once soaked with environmental moisture its stronger than PA6. Also PAHT has some flex, so it works better for some application than stiff PPA.
This is correct, the electronics chamber is actually basically isolated from the printing chamber. though not stricty (not sealed), the airflow between the chambers are small enough to be ignored.
I’m pretty interested in that little fan mod. looks fun lol. Might need to change my poop box design for it then.
Happened to me once, ABS-GF, 65, long print, midday, lol yes.
Temporary solution: point a directional mini fan at the printer’s bottom left back, aka where the MC board is located. Machine is rather close to the wall unfortunately but this also means the fan effectively induces airflow down the ‘alley’ to the right. It works, haven’t had another warning so far.
+5C chamber isn’t much but I think it still helps with layer adhesion on long layer time prints
An external fan mod that utilizes the spool holder mount would obviously be a more elegant solution.
What kind of poop box do you have? Is it sealed? I’d probably change it up from what I run now if it’s sealed and leaves more room for an exterior fan mod.
I thought about just using a small fan and setting it up back there too. I have a few small blower fans with their own power sources I could set up.
External would definitely be easier. My poop chute already uses that lower spool mount so I’d have to utilize the upper one, which may be better anyway if taking advantage of the 24v 4 pin power supply right there. But then again, I’d have to change up the chute I use as it doesn’t have enough space.
Summoning @KYZ_Design I have a banana chute v2 opportunity for you! lol. One with a little more gap so it supports a fan mod. Maybe even one with a built in fan mod
It’s quite hard to tell, unless it’s specified or priced, well, pretty high
Or you can tell it by the tensile strength tests. If it’s PPA based it would usually also brand its high tensile stiffness and strength. Anywhere from 6000 to 9000 MPa (bending modulus or stiffness) should be PPA based. If it’s PA12 based it should be less than 5000.
Stiffness:
PAHT (mixture of PA12 and PA6 usually ) < PA6 < PAHT (PPA based)
I get this error all the time at the end of long ABS prints, which bambu does default the chamber to 65c. I’ll be curious to see if the mainboards ■■■■ the bed in the next year or two.
I think I’ll abandon the behind the rear panel idea in favor of an external design. I’m thinking a 4010 blower encased in a box with a duct running to the electronics compartment vent. It’ll attach using the upper spool holder and be powered with the 4 pin 24v outputs on the back of the machine. This way I’ll be able to keep using the banana chute.
from the looks of it I think the design that you shared in the main post is pretty plausible already, you probably don’t need a huge lot of air flow to keep it cool. The problem with the current design of H2D’s MC board is that it lacks a fan that draws the cool air in or blow it out. If we can break the looping of the hot air then it should be good enough.
But hey it’s easy enough to swap the direction of fans. Since that design comes with two fans, you can even try let one fan blow in air from the right side, and let the other fan draw the hot air from the left side.
