PrinterFirmware Version 01.08.02.00 (latest version)
Problem
My printer messes up the infill all of a sudden. I changed no settings, didn’t change the filament. I tried many things:
Cleaning the plate
Using adhesive for a perfectly sticking first layer
Complete calibration + extra bed leveling before printing
Flow calibration (0.02)
Reduced infill speed
Tried different infills: Grid, Cubic
Dried the filament (that worked perfectly before) for 12h @ 80°C
(Filament was always stored in the AMS btw, always using fresh desiccant)
Cleaned hotend
Cleaned and lubricated Z-screws
Checked the filament during printing for entanglement
Checked nozzle thermal paste if still “wet”
Increased temperature for infill from 230 °C to 250 °C in 10 °C steps
Strange thing is, the walls are perfectly fine and one print managed to finish with a crumbly infill, where the top layers are perfect too. I’m totally out of ideas, what to do. Any help is highly appreciated.
Same problem This is an older post with the exact same problem. I made a new post, because I use the latest versions and the post has no real solution and people drifted from the original problem/question.
Not my video, but mine looks exactly like that and I do not agree with the title.
Have you checked your nozzle thermal paste? Infill prints really fast and as the paste degrades/drys out the nozzle heater can’t transfer heat as fast to the filament which lowers the actual printing temperature of the filament.
Yes, thank you for pointing that out. I did check and forgot to mention it. In fact I had a filament clog the nozzle after about 150 h of printing. At that time i disassembled everything and in that process I put on new thermal paste.
First I want you all to know that I have since changed my tune about Bambu hardware for the most part.
I just bought 2 more X1c units.
A lot of my problems in the beginning were user error and using Prusa knowledge and expectations when I shouldn’t have
However- stuff like this does happen if the auto-leveling or “something” is off. I have no solution other than watch your calibration steps and the first layer go down. Make sure when it is leveling there isn’t any filament strands being dragged along. I think that may throw of the level calibration.
Since then I turned off all the AI features on the hardware on 1 printer and have not had any issues and loving every minute of it.
Do you think, the overall speed matters? In one print i lowered the infill speeds to 150 mm/s instead of 270 and 250 respectively. Thats almost 50%. I’m gonna try it anyway.
I increased the nozzle temp in 10 °C steps before (just for infill) with no success. Forgot to mention that too, added it.
I totally get the frustration. The official support is not helping either.
Do you level the bed manually? I was worrying about left over filament sticking out the nozzle too, but it was printing fine from the beginning with traces of filament sticking out.
My first layers were a problem before the infill was. I’m using 3DLac as suggested by some youtuber and now the first layers are perfect every time.
Back from printing in silent mode and at 240 °C. Nothing different. To me it looks like there is retraction where the infill lines cross over each other. Here is a slowmo but I don’t know if it helps. Play at double speed for real playback time.
I printed my first ever print again, a test cube. It’s gcode was still on the SD card. The infill printed perfectly but i don’t know if that means anything since it is quiet small.
Just out of curiosity: Is there a reason for using a crossing infill? With PETG (but the Basic, still have to run through stock before using the HF), I learned early that PETG really does not like those. I am using non-crossing honeycomb for everything now. Less material efficient than others, but I like the looks while printing
So I wanted to test this one. You are right, the infill problems go away with the honeycomb infill pattern. I won’t mark your post as the solution, because this just fixes a symptom. + it adds 20% material and almost doubles printing time. Default grid infill would be really nice with PETG. And I don’t think, it’s too much to ask.
With the honeycomb pattern some of the walls get messed up, I guess where there is overlap.
I bought a X1C because I wanted just printing and no tinkering. What I mean is: Can someone help me fix the overlap/retraction problems? I don’t know what I’m doing here.
Try Gyroid. But very infill has its specific pro- and con’s.
Actually, it is.
PETG sticks much more than PLA. So any crossing lines are not a good idea for PETG in the first place. It also curls/warps much more than PLA.
Probably. But you do need to provide sufficient information like in your first post (and a bit more): pics and description of the problem area, PETG HF/PETG CF/PETG Basic (?) and screenshots of your settings (Filament, Quality and Speed).
