I was trying to print some Modiphius Star Trek minis using Fat Dragon Games mini settings and a .02mm nozzle on a Bambu A1 AMS setup.
One of the techs at my local Microcenter where i purchased the A1 suggested using Inland PETG filament for the tree supports, whileusing Inland PLA+. After the first 7 layers the circular bases peeled up on 2 of the 8 minis, I was forced to abort the print.
I believe it was the printer bed and nozzle temperatures increased (80°C and 280°C respectively) to accommodate the PETG, which is probably why the PLA mini bases curled up.
Using PETG to print the full support is rather wasteful. I’d recommend setting it only for the interface layer, use a z top distance of 0mm and a solid interface.
You may need to enable the “Support” checkbox in the PETG Filament settings. I am not sure if it is actually needed in this case, but you may want to set the PETG plate temp to the corresponding PLA temp just to be on the safe side.
There’s one big caveat though:
The loss of adhesion and curling of PLA should not happen under these circumstances!
Therfore:
Dry your filament (new frequently means that it has covered one or more oceans, with its bagging not being able to prevent water diffusing through it)
Use dishwashing liquid, water, a stiff, clean brush and maybe a splash of IPA before and after to really get any residues out of the valleys of the textured plate
Ensure a draft free, reasonably warm (20°C+, warmer is better against curling but avoid the heat creep region) build area
Maybe increase first layer temperatures for PLA (plate and nozzle) by 5°C
There are further options, but lets see how this goes first.
Die Betttemperatur sollte wärend des Drucks konstant bleiben, wenn bei den Filamentprofilen für das PETG eine andere Temperatur als für das PLA eingestellt ist. Dann ändert sich mit jedem Filamentwechsel die Temperatur dadurch können solche Probleme auftreten. Wie Eno schon erwähnt hat PETG nur für die Schnittstelle nutzen und bei beiden Filamenten die Gleich Betttemperatur einstellen. Ich hab mir dafür ein extra Filamentprofil angelegt das ich nur für PETG als SchnittstellenFilament nutze.
Gruss der Garfield
The bed temperature should remain constant during printing if a different temperature is set in the filament profiles for the PETG than for the PLA. Then the temperature changes with every filament change, which can cause such problems. As Eno has already mentioned, use PETG only for the interface and set the same bed temperature for both filaments. I have created an extra filament profile that I only use for PETG as the interface filament.
Mixing materials for support…
Unless there IS a vital reason one should only set the interface layer(s) to a different filament.
Usually only the top ones, unless the supports start on the model.
PLA and PEGT won’t really bond well at all, hence using them against each other for easy support removal.
Key is to fully use it by reducing the z-distance and using a solid interference layer when needed.
It is done for EASY removal, which also means it is NOT that good if you need strong supports to secure tall prints as the materials won’t bond well.
Best starting point is a good filament calibration and having good support settings.
I rarely use PEGT for my PLA supports as they just snap off with ease anyway.
Would not be too tall but I would not use PETG for the entire supports…
The rest can be found in the advanced support settings.
Set the interface spacing to 0 and you get a solid interface layer.
I just noticed that I forgot a word in my post. To combat warping, you want the print to occur in a warm environment. With some having their printer for example in the garage, that can become a challenge.
Heat creep on the other hand can occur if the environment is too warm. The nozzle assembly consists of a number of parts, including the nozzle, the meting chamber above it, the cold end (i.e. the part above the melting chamber). More advanced types may have additional or highly modified variants of these basic components. This tube like structure is typically referred at as “hot end” despite also containing the cold end.
When the environment of the hot end is too warm, nozzle heat may travel well into the cold end, causing filament to deform and clog there.
On another note, can you cover the basics first? Like plate cleaning and filament drying? It only makes sense to do troubleshooting if these points are covered.
Next, you may want to provide either the 3mf (just copy paste) and/or screenshots of your settings. It’ll make it easier for us to explain and for you to gain understanding. Otherwise, there’s a big risk of misunderstanding and mixing up post’s or even bullet points.
