To improve print speed I am planning on moving from the .4 to the .6. Maybe even the .8. I use the printer to make tools/jigs for my artwork and I don’t need fine details. I am happy with the quality of the .4. Oh, I print TPU and PLA Tough and PLA. I have never changed a nozzle on any 3D printer before.
Are there any gotcha’s I should be aware of? Is there any general advice you can offer? Is this just a no brainer with no worries?
And one other question - is it better to print lower quality with a .4 than standard quality with a .6 to speed things up? Should I not even change the nozzle?
Bigger nozzle overhang quality will take a hit. Personally I run a .4mm diamondback but I print only cf fillaments. But if I want faster speed I just can’t justify the trade for print quality going with. .6 or higher. To me the quality is unacceptable.
Now you can get faster speeds with a .4 nozzle by going with a cht. The clone chat nozzles are actually faster then the original cht. Infact a cht is only limited by the heater it just can’t keep up. So you could improve print speed with a cht and keep quality.
Don’t get a Bambu hotend. They are by far the worst hotends available and are very very low quality. I cross section one and yeah…it’s junk. Pick up an aftermarket hotend and some of those come with a cht. Then get a .6 cht and run that. You will be limited by the printer it’s self. Even with a .4 cht. And a .4 cht will print faster then a standard .6. so if you want speed an aftermarket hotend with a cht will be thest fastest print setup you can get with the. Printer. You can improve this with a 65w heater and that is fine to run it’s within spec of the jst plug and the traces can handle it and that will help with outrunning the heater. This was not an issue until people found out Bambu hotends are junk are they switched to the higher quality aftermarket hotends. They changed the firmware to limit the speed so when a temp drop occurs instead of the heater running it just turns it off and errors out. Wasn’t an issue prior to that firmware and they removed that version of firmware from the app so people couldn’t use it.
So I say aftermarket hotend with a stock .4 cht or .6cht nozzle and you can’t get any faster then those unless you changer the heater but you don’t really gain that much.
Moving to a 0.6 does not always result in faster prints but usually you will see some improvement with larger models.
0.6 prints are also usually stronger.
Nothing wrong with the OEM Bambu Lab nozzles.
I recommend getting the whole assembly and follow the wiki
I find multi coloured prints are a bit quicker with the 0.6mm nozzle if you don’t need the detail - due to larger layer height and less layers meaning less colour changes.
0.2mm muiti colour prints are up to 5x slower than 0.4.
I have got a 0.8mm to try - with really thick and extrusion - maybe 1.0 or 1.2 - just to try out a different look, but haven’t got round to it yet.
