This shows how little of a chemist I am. I had to look it up, and 2-proponal is the same as IPA. So, sure, I definitely do have that and can try it out. But on a print where the stakes aren’t quite so high.
I bought one of these for my Raise3d Pro 3. It’s been fantastic for everything from nylon, PC, PETG, ABS… easy to cut to size with peel and stick.I’ve rarely used my bottle of Nano Polymer Adhesive Nano Polymer Adhesive – Vision Miner. I figure I’ll end up with one for my H2D eventually.
LayerLock Garolite 3D Printing Build Surfaces | MatterHackers
That’s interesting. That’s the first one I’ve seen with an adhesive backing on the back of it.
I did a DIY one in the past where I took just a virgin G10 sheet and then used high temp double sided tape to adhere it. That actually worked fine.
But with either of those approaches, I assume you’re attaching it to a spring steel build plate? AFAIK, right now the only one who makes those in the right dimensions is Bambulab, because it’s such a peculiar length and width.
The only alternative to that is just taking a virgin sheet of the right dimensions and somehow clipping it to the heated bed. Not easy to do without risking the nozzle hitting the clip.
Nano Polymer Adhesive 
been using it for a few years now and it don’t go bad like some others.
Do you have any opinion about g11 vs g10? Years ago Maker’s Muse implied (in the video below) that G11 was even better than G10, but he gave no explanation as to why, and I’ve not heard any commentary since.
They think $250 is a reasonable price for a garolite print bed? 
I will wait until Juupine in china releases their garolite version for $30-50.
Meanwhile the BTT Glacier is very good for nylon with no adhesive.
G10 is rated for temperatures up to 130c, which makes it suitable for most hobbyists or occasional nylon printing.
G11 offers higher temperature resistance and improved durability compared to G10, making it a better choice for users who regularly print at 120c or higher.
Yeah, the price is definitely higher up north, but when you need a tool that works, it’s still cheaper in the long run than dealing with failed prints and wasted filament especially with engineering grade filament material cost.
If you’re only printing small nylon parts, you can get by with other methods.
Have you tried any of those H2D custom build plates? Which of those offerings, if any, do you recommend the most?
I print a lot of complex and large nylon parts. I usually use nano polymer for difficult prints but the BTT Glacier ($29) has been working great so far with nylon as it was designed for it. I have not had to use nano polymer yet, printed PAHT, PPS, PPA everything is sticking well enough with the bed temp bumped up by 10-15c.
I dont mind paying a bit more for NA made products but those prices are unreasonable in my opinion, its a chinese printer i dont need an overpriced USA made plate for it. I would also suggest to anyone considering buying to read all of the reviews on Etsy before placing their order.
I did, however, just now order a $40 smooth PEI H2D build plate from amazon. Quality is probably suspect, but I only care about the spring steel, as I plan to glue a sheet G10 to it for a DIY garolite H2D build plate. I did this once already before for my X1C, and I am still using it. It not only worked well on the X1C, but it’s practically indestructible. If the garolite is thick enough, it’s so stiff that it remains flat and bowing isn’t an issue.
Of course, if you do want it as a smooth H2D PEI build plate, you could order it, and if it’s no good, return it. A-Z removes the purchase risk.
I buy all my stuff direct from china, I think the Glacier is now $26 + $1 shipping with coupons/discounts:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOzTSQL
You can also get a textured PEI for $17 from there, its not as good as bambu OEM but for nano polymer use its perfect as its uncoated:
The great thing is, there’s something out there for every budget. What works best depends on your needs and if the lower cost nylon plates are working for you, then that’s what matters.
Strangely, the first link says it can’t ship to my address, and the second link briefly flashes a store and then says the page can’t be found. Are you outside the US maybe? Maybe it has tariff-itis or something.
BTW, here’s how I was able to keep my PPS-CF ridiculously dry while printing:
Basically, I pump a constant stream of desiccated air into the drybox, creating a positive pressure so no ambient moisture can get inside.
Yes I am in Toronto. But im sure if you do a search for “Glacier H2D” you will find other listings that do ship to USA.
I’ve got a buddy using a custom rigid G11 plate on his custom Raise3D plus printer to print large nylon CF parts. These parts would warp and they’d peel spring steel sheets up, even with a custom heated chamber and full insulation walls.
The choice of build plate really depends on a few factors whether you’re experiencing nylon warping, whether the design allows for changes to reduce warping, or the type of bottom finish you need on the part. Personally, I try to avoid bending Garolite, since repeated bending shortens its lifespan, or at least keep it to a minimum. I’ve used G10 plates with good results they hold up well and produce a nice bottom layer finish. If I were to order a H2D plate specifically for large nylon prints, I’d go with rigid G10 or G11 plate.
useful insight! thanks for sharing
I printed off some extra PPS-CF parts and will try my first attempt annealing them in a blast oven. Hopefully all the CF in them helps them hold their shape and there won’t be any deformation. Unfortunately, my particular blast oven doesn’t allow a slow ramp-up and ramp-down of the interior temperature, so it may be a little dicier than if I had fancier gear. I could do it manually, I suppose. Hmmm… I’m debating. Anyone have opinions?