Just a random thought, what about putting printed part into microwave and … Yolo
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I have this one Bambulab PPS-CF tree stump that (so far) I just can’t seem to get off of the Bambulab textured build plate:
Here’s what I’ve tried so far:
- plastic scrapers, like the kind meant for scraping build plates that you might find on makerworld. This worked up to a point, but the first layer or two of the tree stump remain stubbornly attached.
- Soaked in a bucket of water for 3 days. Almost zero effect, I guess because PPS doesn’t absorb much water. As a technique, it works great on PLA, PETG, ABS, and ASA, but evidently not PPS.
- I tried printing a PETG gridfinity bin over the PPS tree stump, hoping that it would pull off the tree stump when it pulled off. Nope. Effect effect. I guess the two don’t adhere together very well.
- Presently I’m trying #3 again, but this time after putting down some visioneer nanopolymere adhesive, to hopefully make the PETG bin stick better to the PPS stump. I’m not too optimistic, but I figure it worth a try. That’s in progress even as I type this.
It would obviously be better to print PPS over the PPS stump rather than PETG, but presently I’ve run out of that. ABS would probably have a bit more grip than PETG, but I haven’t yet calibrated it on the H2D, so there’s a hassle factor there and still no guarantee.
Any other suggestions?
Reporting back: #4 failed as well.
So… I’m printing a narrower scraper to better concentrate the applied force and will try
getting medieval with it:
Ya not fun 
You might try using alcohol to see if it can penetrate the microscopic layer. Let it soak thoroughly for about 15 minutes, then place it in the freezer for 30 minutes and hope it comes off without causing any damage.
Good luck 
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It worked! First I saturated it in IPA and let it rest. Then i hit it with freeze spray, which quickly cools to -50C. Then, with effort and freshly printed scrapers, I scraped it off. 
It’s a zero residual freeze spray, so the white stuff is just frozen water (whatever moisture was in the IPA or in the nearby air when I sprayed it). The IPA has an even lower freezing point, so it actually remained liquid.
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Have any of you guys had issues with the PPS-CF breaking in the PTFE tube right before the extruder? It seems like the super fast jerky movements the H2D does during its initial warmup/homing/cleaning/etc is too fast and the super brittle PPS just snaps.
Every print i pretty much have to wait for it to go through its start up routine, wait for it to snap in the PTFE tube, wait for the error that the filamnet ran out, push it back in and it continues with the print fine. Quality is perfect. I didnt blast furnace dry it but its been drying at like 75C for a couple days.
@Nick_B No, it never happened to me.
- Which brand PPS-CF?
- 75C is well below the temperature Bambulab recommends. I realize there’s a belief among some people that lower temperatures like 75C are sufficient if you extend the dry time–and I’ve realized it’s hopeless to debate that to any kind of consensus even though I don’t personally subscribe to that belief–but a question you should keep in mind is “how much longer.” MyTechFun did an anaysis to answer that question (I’m forgetting now which filaments), but the general lesson to remember from that is that amount of dry time goes up exponentially the greater the disparity in drying temperature. So, giving the size of the shortfall, you might be looking at weeks–maybe even months given the size of your drying temperature shortfall–not days. And further complicating that is the RH% of the make-up air you’re using to do the drying. Your only hope of arriving at an answer for your particular setup is to dry to asymptote using a scale to measure moisture loss. And because of the ambient RH% being a factor, that may still not be long enough. Forget about trying to time it. It just takes however long it takes. BTW, that’s exactly how MyTechFun arrived at the answers used in his analysis, although even his analysis failed to account for ambient RH% as a factor. Plainly, the greater the shortfall, the greater the possible effect of ambient RH%, especially if it happens to be high.
And, by the way, a number of us have proven this out on different threads as well, so this is first-hand experimentally derived knowledge talking, painstakingly gathered, not just belief of somebody echoing something they read somewhere on the internet. You have to get out of that echo chamber, at least on this topic. There’s somebody new, every day, spouting mis-information, and it’s just an absolute Sisyphean task to even try to battle the flow of self repeating nonsense that seems to circulate endlessly.
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Using Fiberon PPS-CF. Ill toss it in the oven at the recommended 100C overnight and see how it does tomorrow.
Overall though, all these higher temp CF materials are so stiff and brittle that id still like to reduce the speed of the start up process. Flying between the different start up steps doesnt really save any time and its pretty much there just to look cool.
Which hot end are you printing it in?
Maybe the simpler way to say it is this, for the TL;DR: if you aren’t following the datasheet, then you’re on your own. The authors didn’t invent those numbers out of thin air, and it’s not to their advantage to specify higher temps than what’s needed. Quite the opposite.
Good luck!
Are you using the left nozzle to use the larger tube arch?
The factory PTFE tubes for the extruder weren’t ideal in my case, so I replaced them on the first day. They were too short and had a shallow bend. I’ve been using PTFE tubing with a 4mm outer diameter and 3mm inner diameter, whereas the OEM tubes for the Bambu H2D have a 4mm outer diameter and 2.5mm inner diameter.
I also made adjustments to the two clips on the cable chain to enhance the arches.
By the way, I was informed by one of the computer vision experts on the forum that interior reflections from the right window likely impairs the performance of the Bambulab H2D AI vision system for things like spaghetti detection. So, I figure a “perfect layer test print” done on the H2D in PPS-CF could be repurposed afterward and hung up against that window using Kapton tape as a means of mitigation. Given the natural flame resistance of the material, and its tolerance to very high temperatures, it would seem like a natural choice. It has a matte black finish, so there should be virtually no reflections. 
I currently have my Bambu AI set to medium sensitivity, because I did have problems with false positives after setting it to high sensitivity. Maybe with this adjustment I could set it back to high sensitivity and without false positives. Worth a shot I suppose.
Thanks for sharing makes perfect sense, and especially with the printer operating under different lighting conditions could also be effecting the AI the smoke glass dims and diffuses incoming light, but it doesn’t block it entirely.
Because I didn’t buy the laser version, mine is closer to clear glass.
Alternately, I suppose one could mount some kind of diffuse planar light source against the outside of the window. This would serve the purpose of 1. limiting the view of possibly distracting objects outside the window, and 2. overpowering the reflections, so negating them as well.
In general, I like to stick as close to stock as I can, so I haven’t tried either method, at least not yet, but I may in the future, as neither would demand much effort. My preference for stock configuration is that it’s the Bambu Model. Few good ways to tweak it, so I figure it’s maybe best to just closely conform to it. In the limit case, that would imply doing nothing extra, which is what I’m currently doing.
My X1C lightyear g10’s bubbled (both black and white ones), so they lost their flatness. Big bubbles, like giant blisters of a sort. Not super high, but definitely not flat,. And I wasn’t the only one. Others reported similar. Maybe it’s been fixed in production since then? I don’t know, I haven’t tried more. When did you buy yours?
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Nope, they went out of business. The owner is a scam artist though, so I’d suggest staying far away if they ever make a comeback. He created a bunch of fake businesses and scammed a bunch of people, myself included.
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First release. I bought 2. Not used very often though.
They sucked until I added a fine satin texture
@Qjo
Funny that he went out of business because I had also bought 2 for the mini when it came out and they never showed up.
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Another example of the scam artist. Hopefully you were able to get your money back. Fortunately I used PayPal so I was able to file a dispute and eventually get my money back.
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It was was one of those weird “order and wait” for the double sided pro plates. By the time I remembered I had ordered them, it was probably too late to dispute. Im not sure if he ever even shipped any g10 pro mini plates