Yeah, I never did quite get around to sending my plates back for a warranty claim. Some people did, and he replaced them. But if, as you say, he’s now out of business, then I missed the return/exchange window and it would be too late now. Bummer! While they did work, they worked quite well.
1 Like
Dark Moon has some for the H2D that are listed on their website:
but I’ve never seen them in-stock there. I wonder if it’s the same guy, now selling under a different name? As with Lightyear, they apparently come in both a black and a white color.
how do you have your ptfe tubes routed? Im having issues printing brittle CF nylons in my H2D. No issues in my P1S, but on the H2D it always seems to snap 3-4 inches above the hotend during the initial homing
On my printer, whenever the print head moved to the front left corner, the rear buffer would make a snapping sound. This was caused by the hole clearance in the rear buffer housing being slightly too tight. Additionally, the slider had some vertical play, which made things worse. I noticed that the tube arches were bent excessively because the tubes were too short. That’s when I decided to replace them and worked on reducing the bending as much as possible. I even considered adding a lid riser to improve the tube angles further, but so far, things have been working fine without it 
I’ve been using PTFE tubing with a 4mm outer diameter and a 3mm inner diameter, which is what I have on hand for all my other 3D printers. Although the OEM tubes for the Bambu H2D have a 4mm outer diameter and a 2.5mm inner diameter, I haven’t experienced any issues using my bigger id tubing so far.
You could even try it without using the two cable clips with your CF filament.
I buy all my PTFE tubing from: West3D
It’s currently printing a part, but I took a photo of the front.
Just finished my print this is how I’ve been doing the PPA-CF Core. I still plan to design a PTFE tube holder to keep the tube securely in place and prevent it from sliding back. Funny enough, though, the silicone rubber band has actually been working surprisingly well, haha.
I’m also considering using two rear filament tube couplers, one on the inside and one on the outside. I’m still in the testing phase, but so far, I haven’t snapped any of my CF nylon or PC-CF yet
I just loaded the filament from my external dryer equipped with rollers and 4mm outer diameter and a 3mm inner White PTFE tube and using the rear TPU port for now.
Let me know if this is helpful or what ideas you come up with as well.
I’m forgetting which youtube it was, and even whether or not it was for the H2D or some other printer, but it doesn’t matter because the concept generalizes: you print what looks similar to a giant inverted funnel and replace the lid on your printer with it. Its sole purpose is to feed filament into the printhead along as straight a path as possible. The youtuber developed it as his ultimate solution to the snapping filament problem. If you find it, please post a link back here so others may see it too.
It looked roughly like this chatgpt sketchy render:
of what I recollect it looking like. It was definitely yellow, by the way.
Well, regardless of whether you find it or not, now you have the basic notion of it. The taller you make it, the straighter the path. You could even have an AI refine the design, now that you have the notion, and then give you .stl files to print out to make it. 
Easy peasy.
2 Likes
If you’re only printing a small cf nylon part, position it toward the front left area of the bed to minimize bending helps also.
1 Like
I just seen clear view plastic they have a H2D riser kit on the way.
No, Ben from Darkmoon isn’t the same guy. He is the one keeping tabs on the lightyear guy and also the one who informed me that is actually who scammed me. I forgot how the conversation got started, but Ben is a good guy.
1 Like
using the left nozzle and having a longer piece of ptfe with more slack definitely was the right move - I was able to squeeze out a print without it snapping.
I did keep the left nozzle routed through the buffer but that didnt seem to make a difference
I will get some 3mm id ptfe and see if that makes things even better.
1 Like
The rear buffer creates a lot of drag, so be cautious of that with CF filaments.
Maybe. The description says: "Clearview’s K2 Plus Lid riser is an easy to set up kit that will raise the top panel for more space inside your K2 Plus. "
1 Like
Also, at the risk of beating a dead horse, I’ve noticed many/most filaments become more brittle as their moisture content goes up. Yet another reason to dry the hell out of your filament until it’s bone dry.
Bambu H2D Lid Riser with smoked acrylic panels - Coming Soon
I don’t think they have the complete specifications yet it’s either still in development or they’re waiting on the H2D printer to come in, that’s just my guess.
Maybe they’ve been receiving feedback from others ? I’m not sure.
Caveat emptor: the Bambulab PPS-CF spool of filament finishes with the tail of the filament taped to the spool. 
Now I have an H2D nozzle clog. The possible causes that I can think of are:
- The above; or,
- I switched to PLA, which has a dramatically lower melt temperature, and so if there was residual PPS-CF in the extruder path, it may have blocked the PLA from extruding, resulting in a clog. To me, this seems the likely culprit, or maybe there was more than one cause in effect at the moment it happened.
Either way, how should I avoid this happening again in the future? One proposal I read was to keep a separate nozzle for use with PPS-CF. Maybe not a bad idea? I have a spare high flow nozzle, and I could have used that.
I dislike unclogging any printer, but I hope H2D will be at least slightly easier.
I have a separate nozzle I use for high temp filaments. Before that, I would do a cold pull in between using a high temp filament and a colder filament. The H2D has a really nice semi. Automatic cold pull procedure under the maintenance section. And since I use high flow nozzles now, I have a dedicated standard nozzle just for TPU.
1 Like
Thanks @MotoGP11991 . That sort of info is good to know and hard to find!
I still can’t imagine why Bambulab would tape the end of the filament to the spool, leaving the extruder to basically grind away at the PPS-CF when the filament reaches the end of the spool. Normally, as with any other decent spool of filament, it should just run out, leaving the runout detector to detect it and pause printing. Why on earth would Bambu do that, knowing that each spool is a Frickin time bomb? To save 3 cents in production cost? On a $130 spool of filament?
I’m not happy about the lack of warning by Bambulab either, effectively getting stabbed in the back on a used up spool of filament I can no longer even return. For sure, I won’t be buying any more PPS-CF from Bambu ever again. Not in a million years. And, to be frank, I’m now leary of buying any other flaments from Bambu as well. Who knows what other filament sold by Bambu will also be taped? One experience like this, and the brand is poison.
AFAIK all of their spools are taped at the end? At least mine were.
1 Like
Am I the only one who has a problem with this? Am I just not understanding something? I use filament from a lot of other brands, and none of them do this. Is it a feature rather than a bug? If so, what is the feature?
[Edit: I created a new thread to address the taped filament topic:
]