My H2S experience so far

Hey all - I’ve been using the H2S for the past couple of weeks and have racked up over 300 hours of printing on it so far. My P1S (still running flawlessly after 3,000+ hours) isn’t going anywhere, but the H2S has definitely taken center-stage and I’d like to share my experience thus far.

Unboxing
The unboxing process was straightforward and painless, though I did miss one detail - I failed to remove the tape from the exhaust fins on the back. When I started a print job, the printer immediately let me know when it couldn’t open the vents and the QR code on the screen took me right to a wiki article that helped me fix it quickly – nice! Note to all, before putting the printer in its final spot, make sure all tape and such is removed since this thing is a beast to move.

Pros
The H2S immediately solved one of my biggest limitations with the P1S: build volume. I’ve been printing Milwaukee Packout inserts, which on my P1S would normally require splitting in Bambu Studio, printing separate pieces, and gluing. With the H2S, I can print these in one piece across a variety of filaments, and they’ve come out nearly perfect every time with no discernable warping and no need for glue. I can’t wait to start printing giant gridfinity storage boxes.
With bigger build volume comes a lot more weight. This thing is big. Its heavier weight means any shaking can transfer even more weight to your surface, so a sturdy table is a must.

As a mostly functional print user, I’ve pushed a lot of different materials through my machines. With the H2S, I’ve been surprised at how well it handles historically challenging filaments. PLA, PETG-HF, PC, ABS, ASA-GF, PA, and even TPU have all “just worked”. The chamber heating really seems to help with this - what I used to treat as somewhat finicky now feels routine.
For bed adhesion, I’ve only felt the need to use glue on PA and PC, which resulted in perfect bed adhesion and no warping as far as I can tell.
I’ve also encountered nearly zero stringing, which I credit partly to being consistent in drying my filament at proper temps & duration, storing with zeolite (molecular sieve) instead of silica as well as zeolite in the AMS units. Zeolite gets humidity closer to 0% whereas silica gets it down to roughly 20%.

Happy Surprises
Filtering: The built-in filtering does a great job of removing ABS odor.
Camera: The camera video quality is miles better than what I got from the P1S.
Nozzle Swapping: Tool-free nozzle swaps in under 30 seconds. Compared to the screwdriver and hotend swap process on the P1S, this is a game-changer.
Automatic Calibration: No more flow dynamics calibration for each filament - the H2S handles it automatically. I was not expecting this at all.
Nozzle Wiping: Vastly improved over the P1S. Wiping has been nearly flawless with only the occasional stray blob, none of which have stuck to the nozzle or build plate.
Noise Level*: I wasn’t expecting this, but it prints a fair bit quieter than my P1S did, which is very much welcome since I work in the same room I keep my printer.

Cons
The main issue I ran into was occasional clicking from the buffer when the toolhead was printing at the front-left of the build plate. That sometimes triggered AMS overload messages. I replaced the PTFE tube between the extruder and buffer with one about an inch longer, and that seems to have solved the overloads - though a bit of clicking still happens now and then. Haven’t worked with Bambu Support on it yet since it’s largely resolved. It’s something I’ll be keeping an eye on though.

LAN/Developer Mode

LAN Mode: Printing works exactly as expected using Bambu Studio directly to the printer. For those who want to print without using the Bambu cloud infrastructure, this is the answer. Works as I would expect it to!

LAN + Developer Mode: I was able to put the H2S into developer mode and bind my printer to Orcaslicer using the access code, but Orcaslicer does not yet have H2 series support. I see that H2D support is progressing nicely and there appears to be a build in testing that adds initial H2D support. Hopefully H2S support follows quickly! This would be the solution for those that want to use a 3rd party slicer. Rebinding to Bambu cloud after disabling LAN/Developer mode took all of 10 seconds, bringing the H2S back into the Bambu ecosystem.

Showing off….
No post-processing was performed on any of the prints shown beyond brushing away zits or removing supports. These are all printed with generic or Bambu profiles, depending on the filament used.
These are my Milwaukee Packout inserts. I was very happy with how all four filament types turned out, particularly the GF variants: ABS-GF, PETG-HF, HT-PLA, HT-PLA-GF. As for how the HT-PLA variants hold up compared to the others, time will tell!




These spool desiccant containers were printed in PC and hold desiccant for the spools that need it. They fit into a spool-sized frame printed in PA that allows me to dry a bunch at once in my AMS-HT. Quality on both was excellent. The PA frame needed glue to get good bed adhesion on the smooth plate.


The excellent spool holder & spine by MadeInMeidling on Makerworld printed wonderfully. The spool holder was printed with BL Matte PLA in the Bone White color, which has become my favorite white to print with. The spine has a dovetail and mortise joint that join the various pieces together and the tolerances with the ABS-GF were perfect. The parts fit together easily and have zero slop when fully seated, though that’s as much a testament to the model’s creator’s skill as well.


If anyone has questions, I’d be happy to answer!

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yes happy with mine , I upgraded from X1C, I like it.

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Have you done any comparison between the manual PA and auto? In my experience it may differs much as 230%.
When I stopped using auto I got stronger more precise results.

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So question: If not larger size requirement, and no ABS printing just PETG and PLA. For production environment would you suggest 2 P1Ses with AMS or one H2S?

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I’d suggest 2 P1P’s if you need coreXY (the prints are tall or heavy), or 2 A1’s.

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Some very nice prints there!
Good to see a happy user experience… in contrast to some unfortunate ones on this site. As a prospective purchaser of the H2 I do wonder about quality control as clearly they are capable of excellent results. Now the H2 as been in production for a while hopefully teething problems now resolved.

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I would say for production nothing can beat output volume. So you want the most amount of printers you can get for your budget that fit your needs. You might also want to check out the 3D Farmers Channel on YT and their Farmloop system for the A1 series.

Personally I love my new H2S and it’s a fantastic printer. It’s been flawless since I got it. But so do I love my A1 Mini and P1S. You can see in the whole Bambu lineup how they improve things with each generation, but you don’t need the newest and latest to have a fantastic experience. They’re all ahead of most of the competition when it comes to reliability. Especially if you build a farm for production multiple cheaper A1 with Farmloop System or P1 (if you print parts that benefit from Core X-Y) makes more sense.

H2S is a fantastic option if you need the extra size, modules or want to print more technical materials. Then it’s a wonderful deal. Or a combination of both in the long run. H2 for special tasks and A1/P1 for the big output of “general” stuff.

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Good user story, thanks for sharing!

Zeolite seems to be a very good dehumidifier, so that caught my attention.
I was wondering what are you using to prevent the dust particles from Zeolite getting everywhere they don’t belong?

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I have not created any manual PA profiles on the H2 but would be happy to test a scenario if you’d like. I’ll be back near my printer on Thursday.

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Run two tests: one using full automation and one performed manually. Please also include a more complex model in your evaluation.

Hello! I haven’t noticed any sort of dust from the stuff I bought. Zeolite’s big downside is that you can’t easily tell when it’s saturated and to recharge it completely, you need very high temps most people can’t attain in their homes. Many use either a microwave or their ovens at the highest heat they can and that seems to be good enough. I haven’t had to recharge mine yet though. It’s nice seeing that 0% humidity reading on the AMS though!
Here’s what I’m using: Wisesorb 7 LBS 3A Molecular Sieve, Premium Quality Desiccant Bulk Material: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

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Sure thing. Just to be clear, you’re talking about fully automatic vs manual calibration with a custom K value right? Any specific model and material in mind?

Thanks!

Because it is a kind of crushed mineral, I thought the stuff would be a bit dusty.
Seems I was a bit over concerned here. :wink:

Hi, i have had major resistance errors on one of my h2s and ams. I swpappednover ams and it works fine on 2nd H2S. Other ams will not work on the one machine. Filaments fees in and come straight back out, 3-4 times then error comes up. Filament runs right ti extruder and back. Running machine on manual works fine. Has anyone had such issues

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Yes, choose anything from TPU 90A or lower or ASA (for strength testing)

I get loud clicking from the right side , some switch I have no idea what it is and from the nozzle cleaning, a shame because the thing is silent otherwise!
Don’t know if something is wrong or its normal, trying to explain to Bambu is a joke!

That clicking is probably the filament cutter.
I don’t own an H2S, but I do own an H2D, which means double the nozzle, double the filament cutter, and… you guessed it! double the clicking… not just from the right side, but both sides!
The reason why the filament cutter clicks a lot is because that whenever the gantry goes all the way to the back of the printer to wipe the nozzle, purge, or cut the filament, the gantry has 2 (or in your case, only one) lever that pushes a gear on the filament cutter which clicks it outwards, allowing the filament cutter to never get in the way of printing unless wiping, purging, or cutting the filament occurs.

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Just purchased some of this, thanks to your recommendation… can’t wait to try it out!

I have a pair of X1C’s I run quite a bit, but the build volume and quality of the H2S has me very curious.

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There are 2 places where it makes the sound, one when it goes across the wiper back and fourth, next when it goes from Y to Z or from back to the left there is a switch or tab it contacts.
It doesn’t do it throughout the whole print so not terrible.
Thanks

looks good. my h2s was doing fine but packed it in after about 70 hours due to some issue with the z axis and sensors. none of the recommended easy fixes worked. Next is checking the usb-c cable is properly connected but that is a fairly complex job with a few things that could go wrong. not what I would expect from a new printer.