My P1pain in the rear

Why is my quality on my p1p so gosh darn bad? I printed what should be a strait wall and it came out with little divots. Any ideas?

If you don’t post pictures, it’s difficult to answer.
Post picture and we could deduct what is the issue

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These are the pics. sorry.

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What are your slicer settings and type of filament?

Did you calibrate your printer? If yes what is the settings?

Do you use Bambu Studio Slicer or the fork SoftFever?

I am using the generic pla settings with hatchbox pla
I calibrate my printer each time i print. I use basic calibration settings.
I use the original version of bambu studio.
PLEASE NOTE this happens with all prints, at around the same parts

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do you have any ideas whats up?

Have you tried a different filament to verify it is not a filament issue?

Is your filament dry? How is it stored between prints?

I print almost exclusively with Hatchbox PLA with great results, so I don’t think it’s the filament. Popped this badboy off today:

It’s a good starting point, but you’re probably going to have to start tweaking. The generic PLA is 220C, and Hatchbox PLA is 180-220C. I would try lowering the temp to 205/210 and see what that gets you. From there, I’d slow things down a bit. Cut your speeds in half and see if that improves quality. I usually slow things down on mine and then inch them back up to maintain a good balance of speed and quality.

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Thats cool. Thanks for the help. @Matt Any way you could share your filament and speed settings with me? I am a student going through high school, and I am not able to spend lots of time on my printer. Thanks though.

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Ah, those were the days. Just wait until you’re out of school and fully integrated into the working world. You’ll have even less free time :slightly_smiling_face:


@msinger Thats why i want to be a doctor :slight_smile:
i will have to work 3~5 days a week.
and the rest will go to 3d printing!
(and possibly some for friends)

That is, ideally i will work 3-5 days a week :wink:

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My settings won’t do you much good because it all depends on the exact model I’m printing. Unfortunately there isn’t a universal set of settings that will work well for everything. You might need different nozzle temperatures depending on if your printer is enclosed or not and what your ambient temps are. You might need different speed settings depending on how firm your table is and what kind of dampening you have Mine is on a super sturdy workbench, a cinderblock paver, with some 2" sorbothane hemispheres under it).

But really, the majority of what I tweak is just speed settings and the nozzle temp (and I’m pretty sure that’s all I changed on these particular pieces). Just go into the speed settings in the slicer and drop the majority of them in half. You don’t need to slow down the first layer or overhang speeds, as those are already pretty low. You also can bring down the travel speeds big time too. If you see improvements but not enough, drop them by another half. Then play with the nozzle temps.

I wish high school me would have had a printer like this 20 years ago. Ugh, I’m getting old.

And I get that you don’t have a ton of time, but that’s why its so important for you to learn how to tweak your settings yourself depending on the model you’re printing, so you don’t waste a ton of time on garbage prints or have to rely on waiting around for others. Once you get the hang of it and a little more confidence, you’ll be able to do it pretty quickly. You got this.

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Ok. Thanks for the encouragement and the help. Next chance I get I will try to do that.

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Of course. The other thing to consider is both nozzle size and layer height will impact speed. If you’re doing smaller layer heights, you’ll have to slow it down even more. I can’t tell from your pics but it looks like you’re doing some of the finer layer heights, so you might benefit big time from slowing your speeds and not have to tweak anything else.

That’s why I usually start with slowing down as much as I can on certain models (especially ones that are complex and/or I’m going for quality) and then gradually bumping up the speed.

If your printer isn’t enclosed, you might not have to play with the nozzle temps at all for PLA, which is why I suggested you start with the speed settings first.

I had horrific results when I ran out of one filament and switched over mid print. Same color, different brand. Under extrusion/layer adhesion and globby. I ultimately had to drop my nozzle temp 15c and that cured it. I would not have thought dropping the temp for an under extrusion but that did it. Printed a temp tower for all my filaments after that and I have different temps for each color and brand.

Gotta do the back end work to get good results.