Hi
the no. problem I seem to be having since starting 3d printing is having my tree supports breaking off mid-print (or even early on) forcing me to cancel the print 
.
Im trying to add brims and sometimes halving the printers speed (although no always) but still I seem to get the issue
would anybody have any obvious tips?
(ive attached an image of the latest print this is happening)
thanks
There are some support settings that can help. Such as tree brim, number of wall loops, infill of the trees,⌠But sometimes, trees just grow very tall and you have to slow down.
For that particular print, further increasing brims wonât do much. But you can make them stronger by increasing the tree diameter, increase the number of wall perimeters, include an infill (I like honeycomb as it avoids crossing lines) and set the pitch of the infill.
There are also important interface settings but that really depends on how and where your supports fail. If they fail at the interface, you may need to lower upper z-distance. But itâll also make the support much harder to remove. Still, with the âIslandsâ needing to print in thin air, you may not have an alternative.
If they fail due to part movement on top of the interface while printing the âislandsâ, you may want to try manual tree supports and paint a larger support surface.
Can you post your setting also that would help 
Thanks for the help! Lots to try there 
Is it happening at the same layer? If so watch to see of you are getting the print nozzle hitting the object issue so many people are reporting.
Not that I can tell.
I had the same problem, branches doing some local warping that gets caught by the nozzle.
Using OrcaSlicer now where you can print the tree supports on top of a raft which makes them more stable.
ive managed to print successfully now using the above suggestions - except now some of the supports dont come away so east - so have some further tests to do
hmm - yeah Im getting this nozzle knock issue now - keeps happening at the same point (granted the slice is quite messy) . I used gyroid infill and went to 50% speed. I think the nozzle hits the support at this point
Setting z-hop type to ânormalâ might help (z-hop type âslopeâ is used as default) . If supports are still getting knocked down, maybe try increasing the z-hop distance.
If the collision is with the infill unchecking âreduce infill retractionsâ could do something.
that was a great tip thanks 
glad to hear itâs useful!
Iâve had the exact same problem. It was compounded by other issues: the print would fail if I tried it with silver PLA Silk, which apparently has weaker layer adhesion characteristics. Also, I notiec a few problems with tree supports depending on the slicer version. Orca 1.9 generated stronger supports.Earlier releases of Bambu Studio generated some artifacts on parts of the support; the newest release has less artifacts buf doesnât generate a support with 2 wall loops. It seems that this is something that was already solved in Orca so I think it will be adopted into Bambu Studio soon.
For now, I had to make a numer of changes to print: change the material (the ;copper PLA silk seems to have better integrity and make for a stronger part) decreased the speed; use Orca 1.9 as a slicer; added a raft, amongst other things.
Itâs interesting to understand if this problem is related to another one.
Issue #3747
I wonder if surface stability is part of the root cause. I have not had the A1 for long, but I notice that the surface I put it on even though itâs quite stable in of itself, still rocks because itâs on top of carpet.
This rocking causes the entire machine to resonate, and I suspect the tree supports to vibrate enough to cause both tree support collisions and errors in adhesion.
Iâm not seeing any settings under supports that say anything about brim or infill and changing the wall loops number doesnât seem to do anything. Were these in an earlier version of Bambu Studio that have since been removed?
